Anyone care to explain in detail on how to lock your wrist? What am i suppose to feel so i know that my wrists are properly locked?
the same way you would lock your elbows to prevent it from moving.
Anyone care to explain in detail on how to lock your wrist? What am i suppose to feel so i know that my wrists are properly locked?
Anyone care to explain in detail on how to lock your wrist? What am i suppose to feel so i know that my wrists are properly locked? Also any tips on how to keep the gun from slipping off your grip during recoil?
I don't give much thought to a few things people here have suggested are essential; stance?, meh sometimes stance is flat on your ass, gun in your off hand. Grip? - might be 70/60, might be 'need to get this shot off at 10 yards RFN, hands are sweaty, angle is bad, draw sucked' (it happens, but doesn't exclude the necessity to make an accurate shot) - also the requirement to 'lock your wrists' - if you can, that's great, again not the difference between a hit and a miss, how about breathing? I try to do that but honestly, if I can I do, but it's not essential that you have perfect breath control to hit a target. So what is essential? The front sight is essential beyond 5 yards, trigger control is essential beyond 2 yards. Follow through is essential anytime you use the sights. So we're down to essentials, sight alignment and trigger control and follow through. An instructor can see when these things are done properly and fix the bits that are out of whack, it's very hard to do by yourself.
My two cents: if you seriously want to become skilled with your pistol, join IPSC and start to compete. When you first join you will realize how bad you really are, then your skills will start to rapidly improve. You will then very soon be able to out shoot anyone who doesn't compete. Btw, its very fun too.
Rotate your elbows inward. Force them together. This locks not just your elbows but your wrists too.
Grip is as high as you can go with the 40-60% ratio of strong and weak hand on the pistol grip squeezing your palms together. The thumbs are interlocked on the frame, making sure they do not touch or interfere with the slide. this also expedites use of the locking lever and safety.
I don't give much thought to a few things people here have suggested are essential; stance?, meh sometimes stance is flat on your ass, gun in your off hand. Grip? - might be 70/60, might be 'need to get this shot off at 10 yards RFN, hands are sweaty, angle is bad, draw sucked' (it happens, but doesn't exclude the necessity to make an accurate shot) - also the requirement to 'lock your wrists' - if you can, that's great, again not the difference between a hit and a miss, how about breathing? I try to do that but honestly, if I can I do, but it's not essential that you have perfect breath control to hit a target. So what is essential? The front sight is essential beyond 5 yards, trigger control is essential beyond 2 yards. Follow through is essential anytime you use the sights. So we're down to essentials, sight alignment and trigger control and follow through. An instructor can see when these things are done properly and fix the bits that are out of whack, it's very hard to do by yourself.
Madmardigan, try focusing on a clean pull fully to the rear stop. And don't snatch at the trigger.
You want to pull fully to the rear so you're focusing on the pull and not the upcoming BANG!. And don't let the trigger go right away. Pull it back and hold it fully back all through the recoil. Only when things are settled again THEN ease up on the pressure to let the trigger move forward.
A lot of folks tend to snatch at the trigger too. And that makes the rest of your hand move in sympathy. So work on a slower and smoother pressure build of your trigger finger instead of actually trying to move it. Instead work on the pressure build and let the trigger moves as and when it wants to move. You just follow it will continuing to build pressure until the trigger is fully at the rear limit and won't move any further.
And of course do not even THINK of trying to fight the recoil. If you do that it'll never shoot right. You'll always be out of time and ruin the shot Other than your trigger finger the only thing moving on your body should be your heart. It's hard to tell that to stop. But that's IT! Nothing else moves at all but that trigger finger. Work on building up the pressure smoothly to where the trigger is fully at the rear within about 1/2 to 3/4 of a second.
When you release it after the recoil kick settles don't just let it go. Continue to use the pressure thing. But this time ease up the pressure and let the trigger push your finger forward as and when it can.
Focusing on the pressure build and holding it at the rear limit takes your focus off the big BANG! And it's that BANG! which makes you flinch. Dry firing is easy when you know it's not going to do anything. Your mind knows and when there's live ammo it wants to make your body react to it. So the idea is to take your focus off the actual BANG! and put it into moving your finger and the trigger with control and a proper follow through.
Thank you for being the only one offering sound advice. My problem with the technique you've described is that the gun is slipping off my support hand, and my wrist (trigger hand) is still limp wristing....somewhat. This causes too much vertical oscillation, which in turn ruins any quick follow-up shots when I ramp up the speed - due to the sights bobbing up and down before it settles for my eyes to see proper sight alignment again. I'm going to try Ron Avery's approach to "sticky hands" on the next range visit. His technique seems to vary quite a bit because shooters don't look like they're rotating their elbows a lot - unlike Travis Haley or Bob Vogel.
Now that you're totally confused- let us know how it works out.