How do I remove the cleaning rod and unfold the bayonet on an SKS?
- Thread starter Phinehas
- Start date
serguei.zhuravlyov
Member
- Location
- St. John's
SKS cleaning kit
Actually,
after you swing you bayonet down to 90 deg. and use the small center punch from your cleaning kit out of the gun's butt, pass your cleaning rod down through the biggest hole in the side of the cylindrical kit body.
Perpendicular to the axis of the rod insert the center punch through the body of the cleaning kit and the top hole of the rod.
Now pass the threaded end of the cleaning rod through the cleaning kit's cover with "ears" side towards the threads on the rod.
Screw on your brush first and as it goes in the barrel, "ears" of the kit's cover will go down over the muzzle and when twisted, lock around to front site post and rod under barrel piece.
This will help in keeping the steel rod from the barrel's crown.
Brush first to remove all the cram, then the other metallic piece with a patch,
you have to make sure that the patch covers those big threads, otherwise it might damage the rifling. Do so until patch comes out spotless.
Chamber has to be cleaned from bolt side, just do not go too deep.
In no way this meant to discourage you from buying a cleaning kit brass single long rod preferred.
Good luck,
Serguei.
This cleaning set up is not too bad if you are in the woods after a lot of corrosive,
but I would agree with the rest of lads that aluminum or brass cleaning kit is definitely a must
Actually,
after you swing you bayonet down to 90 deg. and use the small center punch from your cleaning kit out of the gun's butt, pass your cleaning rod down through the biggest hole in the side of the cylindrical kit body.
Perpendicular to the axis of the rod insert the center punch through the body of the cleaning kit and the top hole of the rod.
Now pass the threaded end of the cleaning rod through the cleaning kit's cover with "ears" side towards the threads on the rod.
Screw on your brush first and as it goes in the barrel, "ears" of the kit's cover will go down over the muzzle and when twisted, lock around to front site post and rod under barrel piece.
This will help in keeping the steel rod from the barrel's crown.
Brush first to remove all the cram, then the other metallic piece with a patch,
you have to make sure that the patch covers those big threads, otherwise it might damage the rifling. Do so until patch comes out spotless.
Chamber has to be cleaned from bolt side, just do not go too deep.
In no way this meant to discourage you from buying a cleaning kit brass single long rod preferred.
Good luck,
Serguei.
This cleaning set up is not too bad if you are in the woods after a lot of corrosive,
but I would agree with the rest of lads that aluminum or brass cleaning kit is definitely a must
If your SKS has a lot of yellowish grease on the moving parts, you will want to strip the action and clean everything, right down to the firing pin. Heavy grease can jam the free floating pin and cause an accidental firing.
Its easy to strip it - child soldiers in third world counties can do it.
Its easy to strip it - child soldiers in third world counties can do it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9B7X4IItVoI
great video on how to disassemble sks bolt.
(btw you can use the punch that comes with the cleaning kit)
great video on how to disassemble sks bolt.
(btw you can use the punch that comes with the cleaning kit)
It looks awesome and I don't feel the difference in weight. Heck, I wish I could get cool fold-out bayonets for my other guns too.
lucky07
CGN frequent flyer
Never remove the bayonet, it has so many uses. Can opener, ammo case opener, poke things to make sure they're dead, tent pole (mast thingy or whatever) when your stuck in the bush for the night. pop balloons ... anything really lol
Read his other thread about shooting into water, forgetting the safety related parts of the exams etc.
Lots of good, safe advice is what he really needs.
