How do Norc M14 sight elevation and windage adjustments work?

Luckyorwhat

Luckyorwhat

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Like it says, the elevation dial has a bunch of numbers on it, but what do they represent? I just shot this afternoon and with 20 shots through had difficulty getting them on paper:( Shooting at 25m Started off a few inches low, so I wondered if the 1 meant 10m, and set sight to '2' and nothing hit the paper at all. Then I figured maybe the lowest setting was for 100m, so I moved the target to 50m and put sight back to '1', but couldn't get them on the paper, and I only brought 20 cartridges. The first group of 5 that hit low were pretty well centered, so the left-right lines seem to line up OK.


Lastly, what unit is represented by each click of the windage adjustment? Is it something like 1/4 moa per click at 100m, 1/2 moa at 200m, 3/4 moa at 300m etc?
 
Hmm, I have heard of your problem before, the guy I bought my m305 from had to file down the front sight to get it set under 100 meters, (which is what the first 1 stands for) but when I fired it it shot high at about 40 meters. I suspect it is how you sight through the peep sight, it does leave some room for up and down movement. I have since got a replacement front sight but have not had a chance to try it our yet.

I believe each click represents 1 moa at 100 meters.
 
I looked into it, the rear sight is... they didn't drill the hole in the center. Since the rifle is new will the distributor cover this, or am I just ####ing SOL and 'that's what you get for buying Norinco'?
 
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"...Since the rifle is new..." Contact whoever you bought it from. If you bought it from Marstar, they have a 1 year parts and labour warrantee.
If worse comes to worse you can replace the rear sight aperture with one from a real M-14.
 
Actually I've looked at a few pictures quickly, and it seems that I'm not the only one with a non-centered rear aperture. Maybe the Norinco are not supposed to be center-drilled, because they got some other measurement wrong and needed to compensate?

Real ones are supposed to look thusly:
http://www.fulton-armory.com/NMRearSight.htm
NM1.gif


http://www.xssights.com/store/tactical.html
tactical3.jpg
 
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M14 sights

The non centered peep is a NM (National Match) aperture allowing to turn the aperture up or down for 1/2 MOA vs. the standard battle sight with 1 MOA increment.

This is certainly not an issue aperture on the M305.....

BB

Luckyorwhat said:
Actually I've looked at a few pictures quickly, and it seems that I'm not the only one with a non-centered rear aperture. Maybe the Norinco are not supposed to be center-drilled, because they got some other measurement wrong and needed to compensate?

Real ones are supposed to look thusly:
http://www.fulton-armory.com/NMRearSight.htm
NM1.gif


http://www.xssights.com/store/tactical.html
tactical3.jpg
Click to expand...
 
sunray said:
"...If worse comes to worse you can replace the rear sight aperture with one from a real M-14.
Click to expand...

A rear sight from the M1Garand would be cheaper. Sourcing M14 specific sights is a little more difficult, but more importantly, lots more expensive for that metric factor....not to say it isn't worth it, but the Garand sights would be more cost effective.
 
On the plus side what I thought was an angled drill through the sight was actually cosmoline:)

Unfortunately I can't switch apertures if I want to - I tried to disassemble the rear sight as per CGN threads on the topic, and like those threads said, it didn't work. Loosened and pulled, but nothing came apart! I was glad just to get the one screw back in with it's strange washer around it.

This guy's peep looks pretty much like mine:
M14top.jpg
 
Bump. I have to go sight in my newly-acquired M14 and I'd like the irons set for 100yd. Does anyone know what the windage clicks equal in MOA? My windage adjustment is real tight still, so I haven't counted how many clicks to go from centre to the first mark.

... Or was this answered and, like a newb, I just missed it? :p
 
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Every klik (windage and elev) is ONE MOA! That's the beauty of Jean C Garand's invention.

Yup, your sights need to be calibrated at the range. Warning: When I bought both my Norinco M14's back in 2002 and '03, I swapped the cheap chinese sights immediately with USGI M1 Garand babies. I tinkered with the cheap sights and then realized that they are krap, so I gave them away. That's my sentiments.

Luckily, most of you M14 lovers will likely be scoping your M14's and not using irons on a more formal basis (NRA High Power competition like I did) so adjusting your sights will become a slightly frustrating experience. Don't send the rifle back to the dealer simply because the sights are SHZT ! :p Accept that fact since the rest of the rifle is great including the receiver which is GOLD.

When I calibrated my sights, I would mechanically center the rear sight (16 MOA allowed right or left) and loosen the front sight to shift the POI (point of impact). Remember it works the opposite way for the front sight. Wanna move the POI left, then shift the front sight RIGHT.

Once you have your rear sight vernier centered then you can work on the elevation. Turn your elevation until you can get the POI where you want it (200 or 100 or whatever range you are shooting at), then loosen the elevation pinion screw. That's a rough way of doing it. I don't know if all of you M14 lovers want the serious (NRA High Power competition) way of doing such a calibration. Especially for the cheap chinese sights. I would not do it at all since I discovered that the cheap sights are pure garbage and more frustrating because I was trying to apply my NRA High Power knowledge to the pot metal quality rear sight set. Don't bother... :banghead:

My 2 cents worth...
 
Hungry said:
When I calibrated my sights, I would mechanically center the rear sight (16 MOA allowed right or left) and loosen the front sight to shift the POI (point of impact). Remember it works the opposite way for the front sight. Wanna move the POI left, then shift the front sight RIGHT.
Click to expand...

To move the front sight left or right, you have to first loosen the set screw? and then hit it with a wood block + hammer or something? Brass punch? :confused:
 
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