How do you get consistent cheek weld?

[Mudduck]

I tried using a very light cheek weld today. Consistency of my Groups tightened up a lot. Thanks for the tip

 

[S1nnerman]

you have to close your eyes and trust your body (your head) to do the rest. do it a few times and it will become muscle memory after a while.

 

[curseyou]

Ive experimented with both light cheek and weight of my head cheek welds. Ive found a difference between rifles. Heavier guns with heavier calibres respond better to heavier cheek welds. Lighter benefits from lighter. YMMV

 

[Ganderite]

Good thread. My experience is similar to Ganderite's. The less pressure I put on the stock with my shoulder/cheek, the more consistent my groupings. Nice to have it reinforced as I've been experimenting with more and less pressure on both. On another note, I have been noticing that my rifle torques left on all shots due to the right hand rifling. I was thinking of trying to counteract the twist, but think I'll leave it alone to be as consistent as possible. Has anyone designed/manufactured a muzzle brake built in a semi-spiral to counteract rifling twist? Combined with ports angled slightly upward, that should create a brake that basically held the rifle steady with little to no interaction with the shooter. It would have to be designed taking into account the the length of barrel, the calibre and the twist rate. Just a thought.

This is standard procedure on rifles with brakes. If you look at the muzzle of a CZ858, for example, you see a little spring loaded detent to engage the brake at either 10:30 or 1:30 position. This is so a right handed or left handed shooter can angle the brake to offset the torquing of the rifle.

With rifles that use a crush washer to orient the brake, I have run tests to find out what brake position is required to stop the rifle from jumping high right. It is typically around 1:30. That is, the brake is angle a bit to the right.