How do you guys measure your powder?

I started with a Lee Safety Scale. Learned how to use that and struggled along, hating charging cases for a few years until I bought an RCBS 5-0-5. World of difference! I also have a Lee PPM and an Auto Disk with the double disk kit, adjustable charge bar and pro update kit. Both dropped very consistent charges of ball powder but struggle with stick powders. Some charges varied .5 grs. I mainly load for rifle and mostly stick powders so I bought a Chargemaster Lite. It's awesome to have an auto dispenser working while I'm seating a bullet. Turn around and my next charge is just finishing. I do check it on the 5-0-5 every 10th charge or so but it's been holding within .1 grs with any powder. Well worth the investment.
 
Right now I'm using the Lyman Gen 5 dispenser for my rifle loads. I find it is very accurate (+/- .1 gr) and when I want greater precision I set it to throw .1 gr under my target weight then trickle up. If the Lyman gives up on me I will probably replace it with a RCBS Chargemaster Lite. I've heard nothing but good about it.

For handgun I use Lee Autodisk measures with the adjustable charge bars. Works very well with ball or flake powder.
 
It depends on the number of rounds to be loaded.
For few rounds here and there - the charges are weighted and trickled.
When more then that. I use the charge master and check the charges on digital scale.
For pistol, only chargemaster.
 
53moose320Elk said:
I use a RCBS 1500 chargemaster works okay for me, I sometimes check , with a small digital scale also.
Before that I used a Lee balance scale,
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A few years back, with the intent of an 'upgrade' to some of my equipment, :) the RCBS 1500 Chargemaster Combo was my choice as well. Works great, no complaints. :redface: However, that being said, ;) and being a member from the pre-metric era, I still use and rely upon some of my 'older' pieces of equipment. More specifically, for 'throwing' multiple charges for handgun loads rapidly, I still rely on my old Lyman #55 powder measure.
 
Lyman Gen 6 for the ammos I can't do on the progressive. On the progressive there's a Hornady powder thrower. Both work well for their purpose.
 
For what I do. Stainless steel measuring scoop I rob from the wife, RCBS 505 balance beam, RCBS powder trickler. A bit of trivia for the guys just starting and using balance beams. Make sure your looking at the pointer straight on.
 
Chargemaster and Redding powder thrower. The Redding is incredibly consistent, I often wonder why I bother with anything else once I set the charge.
 
I weigh on a very old redding beam scale , sometimes an old Ohaus as well.
Then everything for 500 meters and in is thrown in either a Harrel or a Lyman 55, depending on my mood.
Every round for shooting over 500 meters in my match rifles is weighed on the Ohaus.
Cat
 
Chargemaster and Redding No. 1 beam scale. I weigh each load for Precision Rifle ammo. The Chargemaster is only 'on' 3-4 loads in 10. The rest it is out by 0.1 grain. No big deal for hunting loads but not for precision work.
 
I have two Lyman balance beam scales. When reloading shot shells I set my universal charge bar with the balance beam scale. One for shot, one for powder. After the bars are set I periodically check the charges for a few boxes of shells against the scales to make sure I am getting consistency and accuracy.

Rifle Cartridges for years I weighed each charge with the balance beam scale. Several years back I bought an RCBS charge master electronic scale. It works very well, and has proven against the balance beam scale to very accurate in dropping consistent charges. Being a little distrustful of electronic equipment I still check the RCBS electronic scale against the Lyman. So far the RCBS charge master has always been agreeable with the balance beam. I am also the same fella who has a state of the art hand held GPS, and knows how to use it. But I don't go out the door without a good old fashioned quality conventional orienteering compass, as it does not rely on batteries or has electronic chips and circuit boards, which can fail.
 
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