I have a .303 that I don't shoot so may as well sell but identifying and then pricing these things seems to just be a rabbit hole I go down but never come out of. What would be a good way to find out a reasonable price to ask for a rifle I can't even reliably identify. Prolly not cool or even allowed to just post and say what's it worth. Thanks in advance.
How do you price a Lee Enfield for sale?
- Thread starter Clint S
- Start date
redbirddog
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Maple Syrup land Ontario
here is an really easy way.
It it has full wood and not cut down... start at $1000 and goes up from there.
If it has cut down wood and barrel. high end of $500
after this you need to figure out the manufacturer and total condition to figure where you go from their.
It it has full wood and not cut down... start at $1000 and goes up from there.
If it has cut down wood and barrel. high end of $500
after this you need to figure out the manufacturer and total condition to figure where you go from their.
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
The discounted price for a No.4 is the cost of sourcing missing parts plus the asking price. Original foreends are as rare as Pope $hit. The ready supply of bands, screws, front sight ears, and sling loops is drying up. Yes there were millions of these things made before, during and after WW2, but finding each bit gets pricey and time consuming. And, the rifle will never be genuine arsenal complete. If the barrel has been shortened, unless there are lots of other attractive parts walk away, or if you're selling take what you can get. If a previous owner drilled the receiver for scope bases, it is 100% Leaverite.
My .02-cents based on life lessons.
My .02-cents based on life lessons.
Post some pictures. Which will help us with a better idea what you have.
Well not a Lee Enfield. You have a P-14 assuming 303 chambered. P-17 was 30-06. Made in the US for Britain. Definitely a sporter but does look like a candidate for restoration. Made by Eddystone, division of Remington WW1. Price wise probably $300 or $400.
Blastattack
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Winnipeg MB
That’s tremendously generous. $100-$200 for me. No way I’d pay $300-$400 for that cut down bubba.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Because it is P14, there will be four complete serial numbers to be "matching" - on receiver front ring, on barrel, on front face of rear sight and on the bolt handle. Some also had at least partial serial number stamped into the barrel channel of the original stock - I have one that does have that - was an Eddystone "fat" stock with no finger grooves, but I have several others that do not have any partial number stamped in the stock. And, because it is made by Eddystone - not by Winchester or Remington - almost every other metal part will have an "E" stamped on it - if there are any USA eagle heads - those parts were from the later "P17" - exact same size, and fit and work fine - just NOT matching. Some reference books here disagree - the hand guards are usually considered to be different for those used on P17, but both can likely be used / fitted to the other.
- Location
- Alberta, North America
200 - 300
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Is a great point. However, I have been playing with a Lyman Bore Scope for about 10 years - I truly am not good enough with it to be able to predict if any particular bore is good shooter or not. I have NOS never fired Schultz and Larsen Palma barrel, and a new, never fired McGowen barrel - so I know what decent quality, new bore looks like in a bore scope. I have hunting rifles that I have been taking game with at least 25 years - I think they shoot well - they look "horrible" in that bore scope - pits, scratches. Then I have several barrels that got "sand wasp" (?) egg in them - egg and larva easy enough to clean out - that sticky crap that Momma Bug uses to seal in the egg is most definitely "NOT" easy to get cleaned out as per that bore scope. What I see looking by eye, is nothing like what I see through the scope - wear at lands, etc. - obviously was done maybe for centuries by gun makers, but I certainly am not to their level yet.
So, for me, is still a bit that I have to actually shoot groups to know whether the rifle will shoot - and that is many things including bore condition - like muzzle crown, bedding of action and barrel, the scope and the scope's mounting, as well as possible deposits within grooves or wear to the rifling - as well as the particulars of the loading that is used. I am not talking difference between .015" and .025" 5 shot groups at 100 yards - that might be whole new "bag" of stuff - I am talking 2" versus 4" 5 shot groups from sandbags at 100 yards. I have bought numerous previously owned rifles - for most people, I think their story and picture of target groups they shot - what loading, distance, etc. - is more informative than their assessment of the bore condition. An extreme example would be to claim the rifle is very accurate, because the owner killed a coyote, once, at 300 yards, while the thing was on the run across a stubble field. I have no doubt that the coyote is dead, and that only a single shot was fired - but is other explanations for that.
- Location
- WMU247 near Edmonton
bolt serial number matches, and its a decent sporterized rifle, no metal parts ground down, or cut off. Just the stock cut.
Pattern 14 or P-14, 303. if you put that up on the EE for $300 is will sell quick
Pattern 14 or P-14, 303. if you put that up on the EE for $300 is will sell quick
