How do you remove the crimp on mil primer pockets?

c-fbmi said:
Do you own one of these? I bought one and what a piece of sh!t, it doesn't align properly and there is way to much play in the slide. I tried to contact Lyman 3 times but never a return call. Maybe I got a lemon but won't be buying any more Lyman stuff, given their superb customer service.
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:confused: I was referring to this:

ht tp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrkFBCyROnU

We talking about the same thing ? Anyhow, yes, and mine works fine.
 
I also got the RCBS case prep center but I rarely use it to remove the crimp because it's still a tedious task for high volume. The Dillon Super Swager makes the whole process an easy task.
 
I prefer to run the spinning tools like the Primer Pocket reamer and pocket unifromer in a CT drill press instead of the case prep centres offered by several makers.

The last batch of crimps I removed with the Lyman reamer in a drill press.

I never had any trouble decapping crimped NATO brass with my normal dies but if I did I'd use my $8 Lee universal decapping die.
 
This might be subversive but I use a medium(for small .223) chromed Philips(star) bit in my cordless Dewalt, and just grind the crimp out at medium pressure till its slightly bevelled. One second is usually enough.
Do not bottom the bit out, just remove the ridge on the outside edge of the hole left by the crimping process.
I go slowly so as not to overbore it I check it visually once or twice to make sure I didn't loosen the pocket up.

Works like a charm, 4 firings so far and still tight as can be. Maybe not Uniform but for the 1.5 MOA Milspec clone ammo I load for it is fast and I haven't messed a single one up out of a thousand. Cheap too, I didn't have to buy any special equipment. Might be more accurate then that but I like Iron sights and Reddots so its hard to tell. As accurate as I can shoot with the right powder load anyway.
 
DeWalt Case prep center

DSC03474.jpg
 
Ok I'll get a dillon swager and if there are burs left ill get em with the debur tool in my press drill.

I already use a lee decapping die prior to tumbling. I then do all the rest on the progressive once clean.
 
wont the countersink remove excessive brass and support the primer less ? Pictures I have seen have an offset funnel type entrance after countersinking. Won't this cause issues?
 
Kryogen said:
last time I tried the drill bit thing I noticed that I also drilled the flash holes bigger.... 10 brass garbage.
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Drill bit? Like a standard drill bit?

Yes bad idea. You gotta use the primer crimp tool as seen on the DeWalt Case Prep Center. You just gotta go down a bit like maybe a 1/64 to 1/32 to remove the crimp. As soon as you see a chamfer around the primer pocket it's good to go.
 
that countersink bit seems to have a guide pin that goes into the flash hole this seems like a good thing to me since the countersink will not be off center.
 
Kryogen said:
that countersink bit seems to have a guide pin that goes into the flash hole this seems like a good thing to me since the countersink will not be off center.
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For small volumes you're over-thinking it. Countersinks / deburring tools will naturally self-center. You can see this in the pictures from the link I provided; it is possible to wreck a case, but uncommon.

In larger volumes my preference would be to get a formal tool. Saves time, more consistent, fewer mistakes.
 
I have a Dillon Super Swage 600 that I was using on IVI brass. The downside to the unit is that it can be really stiff to operate and it still leaves some material behind that requires a quick spin of the de-burring/chamfering tool to remove this excess before the brass will flawlessly pass through my Hornady LNL press.

That said. I've gotten so annoyed with having to double my steps that the last 400 pieces of IVI I processed, I just spun the de-burring/chamfering tool around the prinmer pocket once per casing and had the same results as swaging and then de-burring. Sure, it's not as pretty to see that metal scooped/bevelled away from the primer pocket, but the Dillon swaging tool is so far from perfect that IMHO the ugly primer pocket is perferred over the headaches I've had with trying to pass a piece of brass with a residual crimp left in it through the primer seating station in my press.
 
I use the countersink in my drill press, and bring the brass up to it by hand. A couple of seconds with slight upwards pressure, and its done. Quick also.
 
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