How do you sharpen your hunting knives?

MY dad has a set of 8 stones.. cost him a fair chunk of $$$, he wont even tell me how much they were. haha, anyways, he showed me how to use 3 of them, and the blades turn out very, very sharp, they will slice through a piece of regular paper, not ripping, just a very smooth cut. Sharp enough for me!
 
I've used the Lansky and it works very well.

I've also just taken my knives to a sharpening shop and they do a great job while I wait. The cost to get a couple of knives sharpened is a whole $3.

Regardless, once they are ground and sharp, I think the key is to keep them sharp by using a steel regularly during use and not to let the blade dull.

A blade will stay sharp for a long time by just using a steel.
 
Salty said:
I sharpen them by hand and by eye. To put an edge on a knife I use a stone starting with a fairly coarse one. I lay the stone on my bench and work the knife two strokes on each side back and forth, careful to keep the angle consistant. To get the correct angle, hold the edge at 90 degrees to the stone (straight up and down) and rotate the blade to half that angle, (45 degrees). Half that angle again by eye and that's the angle of approach you want. Use a finger on the dull side as a reference to keep the angle consistant.

Once it gets sharp I switch to a very smooth polishing stone and work it as above but lightly and even more carefully. If you look at the edge after sharpening with the coarser stone with a magnifying glass, you'll see that although sharp, there's wee little bits of burr on the edge. A lot of guys make the mistake of not getting rid of these microscopic burrs. That's where the polishing stone comes in. Carefully finish it off so that you can't see any burs with your magnifying glass. Now, you've got a sharp knife. And the edge will last unlike if you don't deburr it. (800 grit or so good quality sanding paper will work if you don't have a polishing stone).

Other than that I use a big steel usually to touch it up now and then, or a tiny eze lap pen sized thingy that I just bought to touch things up in the field. I find though that any knife that's used a lot needs the thourough going over every once in a while starting with a coarse stone, carefully deburring it. I've finally got to where i like sharpening knives. Got in to it more by trying to keep good quality wood chisels doing what they're supposed to do.:runaway:


x2 Couldn't have said it better myself



I use a spyderco sharpmaker set at home, and a profile set(also by spyderco) in the feild. The Sharpmaker is also good for sharpening serrations :D
 
I made my own sharpener , one that uses 1 x 42 in belts, looks exactly likethe one in Lee Valley Tools cat.I start with a 40 gritbelt on a real dull knife and work my way up to a 320 gr, and finish it off with a leather belt with a green compound rubbed onto it. Last thing I do is I pull the knife thru on a hardwood stick I keep in my sharpening box.It seems to clean the edge up of any tiny imperfections, not sure why but it works.The

Bearcat
 
v65magnafan said:
How is the Spyderco better than the Lansky?


Mostly I don't like the way the Lansky clamps onto the blade, and the clamp is akward to hold if you don't have the table mount. You've also got to take care no to slice yourself while manipulating the stones. It takes a lot more effort to get less sharp knife with the Lansky.
 
I have both the Lansky and Gatco sharpeners and much prefer the Gatco system. The clamping system holds better and the stones are wider. Also, I like the rods on the Gatco stones better than the Lansky.

I also have an Edge pro two stone system which is good, then I finish by stropping, leather belt with red rouge applied to it.

I always like to try new ways of sharpening, there's always something new to try out. After all, you're only as sharp as your knife.:D
 
I use an Accusharp and touch it up with a steel. I just got back from three days of hunting mulies and white tails and gutted eight deer, four on the first day (two each time), three the second day and one white tail buck on the third. (I hunt with some people who don't do the gutting...yet.)

After cutting through the ribcage and removing heads, you need to be able to touch up your knife in the field on the go. Fur and bone is terrible for dulling the knife. I usually touch it up with a steel between each deer if it is handy and after three or four hit it with the Accusharp and then touch it up with the steel again. I got caught with my bad knife on the first day (good knife back in the truck) and it lost it's edge on the second deer - being a quarter mile from the truck where the steel was, I just slugged it out and got the job done - takes twice as long.

All these techniques sound great, but when in the field, it is what you can carry and use quickly. I don't care how good an edge you think you have, after two deer, you need to hit that knife again if you do any cutting through bone and heavy fur.

Same goes when skinning - we skinned a total of thirty-one deer in three days and you better be able to keep an edge if you want to move quickly.
 
Last edited:
I start with a green-stone wheel to get the initial hollow-ground profile. This leaves less material to hone with whatever final steps one uses. I like the 400 then 600 grit bench, belt sander finished off with a very fine diamond or steel hone.

This works well for wood chiesels, lathe knives, utility knives, and pretty much everything except an axe. You don't want a hollow-ground axe blade.
 
Back
Top Bottom