How do you store and O/U
- Thread starter Happy Tom
- Start date
- Location
- Ft. Mac. Alberta
Some of mine are in tske down cases, some on the rack.
it doesn't matter, as long as it is cleaned and greased on the hinges , etc, and there is silica pacs in the cases....
Cat
it doesn't matter, as long as it is cleaned and greased on the hinges , etc, and there is silica pacs in the cases....
Cat
- Location
- Hillbilly shack in the boonies
Any gun oil is fine, i use Otis, and MP-5, mp-5 when I want to get into small places. And as mentioned , take the weight off the hammer springs, I fire onto snap caps, or de #### on closing.
- Location
- Ft. Mac. Alberta
X2.
I like Kroil myself, and either a moly paste or Lithium based stuff like lubriplate for the hinge pins - i don't use oil on them because of the high pressures involved , but some do.
When I take my guns apart, I realease the firing pins after by holding a pencil eraser against the hole of each pin and pulling the trigger, that way
the pins hit the eraser and the springs get released.
I also release the top lever so that spring is released.
This will either be a detent on the breach face or sometimes a small lever on the water table of the receiver....
Cat
+1 on Lubriplate for break open hinges, I used it for years on my trap guns with great results. Works much better than any oil for that application.
Mark
M12shooter
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- East St. Paul, mb
Silicone snap caps in the chambers.
Ahsan Ahmed
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Should you plan to store that shotgun as fully assembled and positioned upright....please ensure that there is no excessive oil left inside the barrels....run a clean/dry patch to remove as necessary.
Overtime, gun oil can slowly flow down the bores and continue to seep into the stock head and eventually cause the wood to soften. Although this won't occur overnight, however, if proper attention is not paid, there will be a potential for reduced longevity of the stock.
Apart from the "fondling" factor
, needless to mention that during storage, regular inspection of the firearm and wiping the exterior (wood/metal) with a Silicon Cloth (example - Birchwood Casey's) prior to putting that back into the cabinet is a good idea. This removes smudges etc and leaves a slight protective coating all over the firearm.
Overtime, gun oil can slowly flow down the bores and continue to seep into the stock head and eventually cause the wood to soften. Although this won't occur overnight, however, if proper attention is not paid, there will be a potential for reduced longevity of the stock.
Apart from the "fondling" factor
, needless to mention that during storage, regular inspection of the firearm and wiping the exterior (wood/metal) with a Silicon Cloth (example - Birchwood Casey's) prior to putting that back into the cabinet is a good idea. This removes smudges etc and leaves a slight protective coating all over the firearm.
Ahsan Ahmed
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Did you mean how the mechanism works? Or how to work the shotgun (this one likely a somewhat dumb question on my part
)?canucklehead
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Calgary, AB
Uh, why? Is dry firing gonna break the thing? To each his own - if that's your procedure, that's okay - I'm just wondering what is the thought process for this?
Maybe I'm just naive, but I dry fire ALL of my guns thousands of times (autos, semis, revolvers, levers, bolts, pumps, O/U's - EVERYTHING) and have never had ANYTHING break.
Either I'm super lucky, or some people are super anal.
Did you mean how the mechanism works? Or how to work the shotgun (this one likely a somewhat dumb question on my part
How the mechanism works. I am pretty sure I figured out how to work the shotgun (not very accurately yet)
Ahsan Ahmed
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Uh, why? Is dry firing gonna break the thing? To each his own - if that's your procedure, that's okay - I'm just wondering what is the thought process for this?
Maybe I'm just naive, but I dry fire ALL of my guns thousands of times (autos, semis, revolvers, levers, bolts, pumps, O/U's - EVERYTHING) and have never had ANYTHING break.
Either I'm super lucky, or some people are super anal.
Dropping the hammer (preferably on a snap cap) is always a better idea.
A shotgun, admittedly, is also a centrefire device and could be dry fired into an empty chamber. However, there is always the potential for damage and I've seen that happen
- Location
- Ft. Mac. Alberta
I also know of many shooters who think nothing of dry firing there guns, and i have done it in the past, except for rim fires.Uh, why? Is dry firing gonna break the thing? To each his own - if that's your procedure, that's okay - I'm just wondering what is the thought process for this?
Maybe I'm just naive, but I dry fire ALL of my guns thousands of times (autos, semis, revolvers, levers, bolts, pumps, O/U's - EVERYTHING) and have never had ANYTHING break.
Either I'm super lucky, or some people are super anal.
To date in the last 5 months I have had no less than SIX guns with firing pins that have broken, three of them were O/U's, and three were bolt gun center fires.
Before that I had a M12 break two pins in different occasions, so i am not going to take chances from now on.
Cat
Last edited:
Ahsan Ahmed
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
How the mechanism works. I am pretty sure I figured out how to work the shotgun (not very accurately yet)
Just realized that I've lost a good pdf doc explaining the internals of Boxlock and Sidelock designs. Will attach if I'm able to retrieve that. I'm believe other members here may have access to something similar.
