I don't hunt big game any more, but have shot lots of game with 308. 2.5" high at 100 will serv you well for most hunting. If you are going to shoot longer than 250 use a range finder and practice!! Mark down hold over at 300,350,400 and tape to your stock. Remember bow hunters get within 50 yards so a good hunter can get to 200 IMHO. Remember to practice at ranges you will shoot. You need to keep shots all in a 6" circle. Like all here this is my view/experience and YMMD.
How far to zero .308?
- Thread starter lidakang
- Start date
Shorter ranges are useful for getting the rifle on paper, but should not be relied upon for longer range trajectory . If you have a 200 yard range, thenot I would recommend you zero it to hit point of aim at 200 yards. This will put it about 1.5 - 2 inches high at 100. For interest sake you could see where it impacts at 25 a d 50 yards. With the 200 yard zero you could right on from zero to 250 without overshooting.
It has been shown that the 25 yard zero doesn't work for all scope setups (some are higher some lower). Even trying to extrapolate 50 yard zero is tricky and not the same for all rifles.
A 4 inch high zero at 100 is good way to miss with the height of the trajectory.
It has been shown that the 25 yard zero doesn't work for all scope setups (some are higher some lower). Even trying to extrapolate 50 yard zero is tricky and not the same for all rifles.
A 4 inch high zero at 100 is good way to miss with the height of the trajectory.
I do have a T/C with a 15" barrel that has a Leopold scope with the custom Tourette set for 308 the dam scope is set as low as it can and is 4 inches high at 25 yards to high for my liking I'm going to put Iron sights on it
the custom turrets is set up for 308 at 200 yards zero and if you can shoot accurately that far it's a safe bet but if you can only shoot accurately out to a 100 yards then the 200 yard zero will be impossible for you to achieve
the custom turrets is set up for 308 at 200 yards zero and if you can shoot accurately that far it's a safe bet but if you can only shoot accurately out to a 100 yards then the 200 yard zero will be impossible for you to achieve
That's pretty standard for most calibres. That's what I aim for to start with everything from my 243 to 300 win. mag. Then try at 200 and tweak to fit.
Each rifle and load is different though, so it could be anything from 1.5 inches to 2.5 at 100 yards for a 200 yard zero.
And yes, after doing that, chances are you'll see game at 50 yards so after you have it set for 100 and 200 make sure you know how it shoots at 25 and 50 too.
Or, instead of listening to a bunch of random dudes from the internet, go to the g7 site and play with the data tables. There are lot of different factory loads to choose from. There also is the ability to put in your own variables, speed, bullet, and zero distance. Try the 50 yard, 100 yard and 200 yard and see which you like better. You are the guy taking the shot and you should know your own abilities.
http://www.gseven.com/ballistic-program
http://www.gseven.com/ballistic-program
or you can just go with the load from zediker and play with it a little- 175smk, 66 grains of 748. and a magnum primer- the vary by 10% down- it's a to easier to use an established recipe and someone else's research as a starting point. btw, that's the m118slr recipe developed for the 14- the only one I've used since 72 and it's treated me well
Some of these Random dudes have spent time behind the Rifle shooting at ranges out too?? and know pretty much exactly where their 243-3006 is hitting because they practised their theorys.
on a 270 which was running 2850 fps I had it at 2-2.5 inch high at 100m as I used it for over 200m most of the time, it was right about Zero for 200, and ony down -15 inches at 300 (hence the backline hold) and I missed a few Deer off hand at 150 -/+ because it would of been around 3 inches high or so at that range, which from what I read on CGN a lot of shots are around this range, So id advise a +1/1.5 inch @ 100meters and as I mentioned before, Hold on the Fur, centre of Chest from 10 to 250 odd meters... Which most Blokes on here say they wouldn't ever shoot at game at that distance.
MPBR is all good an well if you study that up.... but +4/5 inch on a OffHand shot can be a miss on a Deer at 150m odd. as most People will shoot high weather Recoil, flinch or just as it seems to be, mistaken range
I prefer to know its on Fur and once I have to grab the Rangefinder and find a Rest then I know to elevate the Crosshair by A- a bees #### or B- to the backline.
It is of course up to the OP but we are just giving our opinions in Which HE can make out of it what he wants.
on a 270 which was running 2850 fps I had it at 2-2.5 inch high at 100m as I used it for over 200m most of the time, it was right about Zero for 200, and ony down -15 inches at 300 (hence the backline hold) and I missed a few Deer off hand at 150 -/+ because it would of been around 3 inches high or so at that range, which from what I read on CGN a lot of shots are around this range, So id advise a +1/1.5 inch @ 100meters and as I mentioned before, Hold on the Fur, centre of Chest from 10 to 250 odd meters... Which most Blokes on here say they wouldn't ever shoot at game at that distance.
MPBR is all good an well if you study that up.... but +4/5 inch on a OffHand shot can be a miss on a Deer at 150m odd. as most People will shoot high weather Recoil, flinch or just as it seems to be, mistaken range
I prefer to know its on Fur and once I have to grab the Rangefinder and find a Rest then I know to elevate the Crosshair by A- a bees #### or B- to the backline.
It is of course up to the OP but we are just giving our opinions in Which HE can make out of it what he wants.
@ random dudes. Whoa, take it easy. Many people, many ways of doing things. There is no right way. I run a 50 yard zero. Someone says 200. Not much difference between the two. Someone else says 100. They are all correct. My post was so that the OP or anyone else, would go out and learn what suits them best.
You guys are pretty clever. I especially like that 6" come of death.
My plan has been to get out to the range, zero at 100, then figure out the mills for bullet drop. I'll stick a little cheat sheet on the stock of my rifle. I think the methods described here are much better and will work well with a plain old duplex reticle.
My plan has been to get out to the range, zero at 100, then figure out the mills for bullet drop. I'll stick a little cheat sheet on the stock of my rifle. I think the methods described here are much better and will work well with a plain old duplex reticle.
Here's what I've got after using a chronograph. I've since gone to the range and confirmed that the 100m / 200m / 400m solutions are correct.
Looks great. If I could add, do a separate sheet, doesn't have to go on your Rifle, with the drop in inches. Just so you're clear on what one mil of vertical looks like.
I used a ballistic computer to find out my trajectory for my rifle, Then picked the distance that gave me a zero distance that is 1" low to a 1" high impact point, So for me its 175 yards. Basically shooting from 30 yards out to 200 yards. Basically your hunting shot distance all I have to do is put my crosshair's on the target spot and squeeze and my shots will hit within less then an inch high or low of where I aimed.
I have found for me the MPB setting is B.S.. I thought about every miss I ever had or saw, every one was high. This was sighting 3" high at 100 yards. I used 300 win mag. 257 Roberts, 340 Weatherby, .375 H&h, .303 british...
I switched to a 200 yard zero, and have not missed high since. For the .303 I use150 if it is scoped.
this is no invention of mine. What started me thinking was an article by Ross Siefried on Zero yardages.
I switched to a 200 yard zero, and have not missed high since. For the .303 I use150 if it is scoped.
this is no invention of mine. What started me thinking was an article by Ross Siefried on Zero yardages.
