How good is federal brass...

death-junky

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Hey all as the question says. I got a ton of old federal brass from my uncle (300 win mag) and I dont know about the stuff... I've stuck 3 cases already and I've never stuck any before... the rim tares off pretty easily it seems. I make sure that the brass is good and lube before sizing but ya... the brass is anywhere from newish to 30 years old.
 
Just yesterday, I resized and trimmed to proper length ten once-fired Federal 300 Weatherby brass to 300 H&H without annealing and without a hitch. Went to the range with sensible full power loads and checked the sight in. AOK!

Sometimes, softer brass has it’s advantages.
Ted
 
OP, it sounds to me like you aren't lubing the inside of your necks before resizing. That's a common mistake and I've been caught on it myself, even recently, when I was in a rush to reload 50, once fired, 338-06 cases made by necking up 30-06 cases previously.

It happens.

Magnum brass can and often does harden much faster if pressures are at or near maximum. They should be re annealed after 3-4 shots IMHO.

People have their favorite components but I don't get overly excited about anything, other than Lapua brass.

I use a lot of range brass, a lot of it is Federal and it works well in most situations if I'm careful to do my part.

Unless it's obvious that the brass is once fired, usually indicated by the shiney cases and brass colored primers, I re anneal all range brass, after washing it to clean up the crud.

I put it all into a heavy cloth bag and then into the washing machine with Lemshine and a couple of diswasher detergent packs. Brass may not be shiney but it's clean, inside and out.

Lots of folks don't like the way I re anneal but I've got 65 year old Dominion 30-06 cases and 75 year old Winchester 303 Brit cases that are still going strong after a lot of reloads, involving neck sizing only and being fired in the same rifle.

I heat up the oven to it's maximum temp then put all of the brass I'm working on, into it for 15-20 minutes, then take it out and let it air cool.

I used to quench it but that didn't soften it as much and it was pointed out by folks here that I was actually hardening it.

I was duplicating a procedure I witnessed at a commercial reloading facility in Brazil during the mid seventies.

Some of those Dominion cases have over 60 reloads on them.
 
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Make sure you have the correct shell holder for that case. A few years ago I grabbed a shell holder that seemed to fit alright and had a case stick in the die that resulted in tearing the rim off the case. After I got the case unstuck I got looking at the shell holder and while it seemed to be close enough to work it wasn't the correct size for the case.
Federal brass is soft but other than that I've had pretty good luck with it even though it definitely shows pressure signs before other brands of brass.
 
Good brass. Like most American brass, need prep to consider it ‘match’. Most Federal .223 primer pocket are crimped, specially the American Eagle brand.
 
Federal brass goes right into the recycle bin. I have had primers fall out on factory loads.

Hahahaaa, I believe you. If it ever happened, you have a gun problem.

Federal ran and made ammo for the US military under the Lake City plant ( and others)for many years before the contract was turned over to Winchester-in 2020.

Lake City head-stamp brass is about the best brass out there. Used by competitors in about any service rifle matches in the US. They know how to produce very good case and they do. Federal case are as good as any found in any brand of commercial US ammo.
 
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Federal brass works. As good as Winchester, or Remington.

The only time I’d really worry about it is if you’re reloading it a whole bunch of times. And if you got a “ton” of it from your uncle, how many times will you realistically be reloading each case?
 
OP, it sounds to me like you aren't lubing the inside of your necks before resizing. That's a common mistake and I've been caught on it myself, even recently, when I was in a rush to reload 50, once fired, 338-06 cases made by necking up 30-06 cases previously.

It happens.

Magnum brass can and often does harden much faster if pressures are at or near maximum. They should be re annealed after 3-4 shots IMHO.

People have their favorite components but I don't get overly excited about anything, other than Lapua brass.

I use a lot of range brass, a lot of it is Federal and it works well in most situations if I'm careful to do my part.

Unless it's obvious that the brass is once fired, usually indicated by the shiney cases and brass colored primers, I re anneal all range brass, after washing it to clean up the crud.

I put it all into a heavy cloth bag and then into the washing machine with Lemshine and a couple of diswasher detergent packs. Brass may not be shiney but it's clean, inside and out.

Lots of folks don't like the way I re anneal but I've got 65 year old Dominion 30-06 cases and 75 year old Winchester 303 Brit cases that are still going strong after a lot of reloads, involving neck sizing only and being fired in the same rifle.

I heat up the oven to it's maximum temp then put all of the brass I'm working on, into it for 15-20 minutes, then take it out and let it air cool.

I used to quench it but that didn't soften it as much and it was pointed out by folks here that I was actually hardening it.

I was duplicating a procedure I witnessed at a commercial reloading facility in Brazil during the mid seventies.

Some of those Dominion cases have over 60 reloads on them.

I actually anneal after every firing. It could be I'm not getting the lube inside the neck. I just use spray lube. I look at that next time I prep some brass. Maybe I need to switch lube. The thing is I have reloaded strictly hornady brass with out a single stuck case.
 
The only Federal rifle brass I can comment on is for 303 British. I’ve loaded them 3 times now with no issues yet. I have Federal 9mm, 38/357, 44 magnum and 45 Colt that I’ve lost count on how many times they have been reloaded with the usually split mouths and or cases on a few.
 
I actually anneal after every firing. It could be I'm not getting the lube inside the neck. I just use spray lube. I look at that next time I prep some brass. Maybe I need to switch lube. The thing is I have reloaded strictly hornady brass with out a single stuck case.

Spray some lube on a Q-tip.and give the inside of the case mouth a quick wipe to make sure it's lubed.

Auggie D.
 
Unless it is for the 30-30, I recycle all Federal brass. It works fine until you get close to max loads.
Then primer pockets start to open up, and usually will be too loose by the 3rd firing.

I once had a light, but accurate load in my 7mm Rem Mag, using Federal brass. [Rem 9½M, 6x
grains of IMR 4831, 150 grain Ballistic Tip] It chrony'd at 2890 fps avg. With that load, Federal
brass stood up OK....I loaded some 6 or 7 times before any loosening of Primer pockets was noticeable.

Knowing that a bit more velocity was available with this bullet/powder combination, I moved up ½ grain
at a time until I reached the desired speed [3100 fps] Guess what? One firing in Federal brass and Primer
pockets were unable to reliably hold a new primer. Moved to R-P brass, worked up again, 5 firings later
pockets still tight.

Some may say this is a one-off, but I have seen similar issues with 6mm Remington, 6.5x55, 7x57, 30-06
and 300WSM offerings. I simply prefer other brass because of the "soft nature" of Federal brass. Dave.
 
I actually anneal after every firing. It could be I'm not getting the lube inside the neck. I just use spray lube. I look at that next time I prep some brass. Maybe I need to switch lube. The thing is I have reloaded strictly hornady brass with out a single stuck case.

I've had the same issue you describe with just about every manufacturer of brass case out there. It happens, when I don't pay enough attention and when I'm coaching a newbie, I always make sure to explain why lubing the inside of the case neck is so important on bottle neck cases.

Annealing every time is OK, if you're neck sizing only. Again IMHO.
 
Unless it is for the 30-30, I recycle all Federal brass. It works fine until you get close to max loads.
Then primer pockets start to open up, and usually will be too loose by the 3rd firing.

I once had a light, but accurate load in my 7mm Rem Mag, using Federal brass. [Rem 9½M, 6x
grains of IMR 4831, 150 grain Ballistic Tip] It chrony'd at 2890 fps avg. With that load, Federal
brass stood up OK....I loaded some 6 or 7 times before any loosening of Primer pockets was noticeable.

Knowing that a bit more velocity was available with this bullet/powder combination, I moved up ½ grain
at a time until I reached the desired speed [3100 fps] Guess what? One firing in Federal brass and Primer
pockets were unable to reliably hold a new primer. Moved to R-P brass, worked up again, 5 firings later
pockets still tight.

Some may say this is a one-off, but I have seen similar issues with 6mm Remington, 6.5x55, 7x57, 30-06
and 300WSM offerings. I simply prefer other brass because of the "soft nature" of Federal brass. Dave.

Are you full length resizing your cases???

I used Federal Match cases in a 308 HBR rifle and put appx 1500 shots out of those 50 cases without any issues you describe and I loaded those rounds HOT.

That being said, I have had similar issues with RP brass and Sellior Belot cases, when I loaded them close to max or slightly over.

Most of my hunting loads aren't anywhere near maximum pressures, simply because the accuracy nodes are better at the lower pressures.
 
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Federal is the only one I will sort through to go out of my way and throw out.
Had 4 boxes of federal 308 that went through my m14. Second firing I had 1/4 of them fully rip off the case head from the rest of the case. Every time the case head would fly out and the case would be sitting on top of the mag.
Before you all cry bad headspace the rifle has never had issue and was checked ok by m14 medic
 
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