How hard is it to get the 7mm Rem Mag to shoot?

Fox

Fox

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I ended up with a bunch of 7mm RM ammo is a batch deal with a guy from work almost with dies and some bullets. Seeing as people do not want to spend anywhere close to what I consider reasonable money on factory ammo I figure I may have to keep it and just work out a way to buy a 7mm RM, ha ha ha.

How hard is it to get this cartridge to shoot well? What should I expect for accuracy from a hunting rig?

I have seen guns from Parker Hale 98s, Savages and all the way up to custom, is there any need to go beyond a basic hunting rifle for accuracy in this cartridge?

I ask because I know some cartridges are just flat out accurate, seemingly no matter what. The 222 Rem is one, 6.5x55 is another, hard to make those things shoot badly.

Thanks
 
Not hard to make them shoot accurately, at all. Depending on the individual rifle, groups of 1 MOA or better, are achievable. Perfectly adequate for hunting purposes. Some shooters prefer light bullets for this cartridge. But, it's been my experience that the 7mm's full capability comes with bullets in the 160-175-grain range.
For example: My nephew's run-of-the-mill Browning A-Bolt II, routinely delivers 3-shot, sub-MOA 100 meter groups, with handloaded 175-grain bullets and H1000 powder. About the same, with 160's. He does shoot lighter bullets on occasion but, generally finds the 160's to be the most versatile.
As mentioned, if a person is recoil sensitive, the 7mm can be fairly uncomfortable to shoot. Especially, from the bench. Not so much, in hunting conditions. In which case, either install a muzzle brake. Or, other recoil suppression.... Limbsaver, etc.
 
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Can’t comment on the accuracy of the cartridge but I’ve got two buddies with 7mm RM’s, one I’ve shot. Recoil was stout off the bench but not horrible, it wouldn’t stop me from buying one though. If I did buy one it wouldn’t be anything lightweight, the one I shot was an older Rem 700. Wood stock and iron sights, nice rifle.

Other friend has a Tikka, they tend to be lighter weight, I’m guessing it’s not all that fun to shoot off the bench lol.
 
Recoil for a 7 Rem Mag is about the same as a 30-06. I've owned a few, and reloaded for a few more. Managed to find moa or better loads for all of them, though some were fussy. 160 gr is the sweet spot in bullet weight, and I used to start with RL22 because I had a lot of success with it. Being as how that's gone for now, look to 7828, h1000 and 4831. - dan
 
My concerns with Tikka and Sako always come to mind, first off is price, second is twist rate, looks to me like many are twisted for light short bullets and the third is the rings, they have to use proprietary rings. I have a short neck so many rifles for me require either a significantly longer eye relief or offset rings, I actually bought a stash of offset rings both 1in and 30mm, weavers, they seem to work with most rifles I have better than standard rings for me.

For recoil, if buying used I can always go shoot the factory ammo and get a feel for it before reloading but my 3006 with 200 and 220gr do not bother me, recoil only seems to bug me when I get up to 3.5in 12ga turkey loads, then I seem to get headaches, ha ha.

Based on the chuck hawks list the recoil should be in the ballpark of that 3006, but yes, I like a heavier rifle anyway and heavier will mitigate that for sure.

Why are you guys always shooting 3 shot groups and not 5 shot?
 
dan belisle said:
Recoil for a 7 Rem Mag is about the same as a 30-06. I've owned a few, and reloaded for a few more. Managed to find moa or better loads for all of them, though some were fussy. 160 gr is the sweet spot in bullet weight, and I used to start with RL22 because I had a lot of success with it. Being as how that's gone for now, look to 7828, h1000 and 4831. - dan
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Lots of 4831 kicking around, use it in the 243 as well for 100gr pills.
 
Tikka has lots of rail and ring aftermarket options available at the same price as any other brand. Sako you’re more limited and expensive. Get excellent feedback at work on Winchester XPR accuracy and the 7mm Mag has a 26” barrel to get the most out of it.
 
Different shooters will have their reasons but, I usually stick to 3-shot groups, as it more closely duplicates actual hunting conditions, ie: Cold barrel. Possibility of a follow-up shot, if necessary. I've never seen the necessity or practicality, of shooting more than that. Except in competition. Or, during initial sight-in. Even then, each 3-shot sequence is spread out over time, to maintain consistency. If you prefer 5-shot groups though, by all means.
If you handle 30-06 recoil okay, you'll find that the 7MM packs a bit more punch. But, not much more than your heavy '06 loads. Just feels a bit sharper, with a bit more muzzle rise. On the bench. At game, not even noticed. But, surely not enough to give you a recoil headache. Which I have some experience with. So can sympathize. By the way, why would you punish yourself by shooting 3.5" turkey loads? When a 3" or 2 3/4" can deliver the same results?

Al

ps: For some good 7MM Mag. load data, refer to the online: Hodgdon Reloading Data Center.
 
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Alex McKr said:
Different shooters will have their reasons but, I usually stick to 3-shot groups, as it more closely duplicates actual hunting conditions, ie: Cold barrel. Possibility of a follow-up shot, if necessary. I've never seen the necessity or practicality, to shoot more than that. Except during initial sightin-in. Even then, each 3-shot sequences is spread out over time, to maintain consistency. If you prefer 5-shot groups though, by all means.
If you handle 30-06 recoil okay, you'll find that the 7MM packs a bit more punch. But, not much more than your heavy '06 loads. Just feels a bit sharper, with a bit more muzzle rise. On the bench. At game, not even noticed. But, surely not enough to give you a recoil headache. By the way, why would you punish yourself by shooting 3.5" turkey loads? When a 3" or 2 3/4" can deliver the same results?
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Back in the day we were told you needed 3.5in 12ga to kill a turkey, remember all that hype? Anyway, when we started out we bought a bunch of loads and I still had a pile in the cabinet. I have not hunted turkeys in 7 years but my daugher now wants to go, so I am going back out and taking her. Anyway, went to pattern and shot the 12ga 2 3/4in flight control from a factory full choke, 20ga 3in long beard from a Carlson turkey choke and the 12ga 3.5in with an undertaker turkey choke. Lets just say the 20ga patterned the best of all 3 and still just about the same as the 1930s 16ga factory full with 1 1/8oz of shot.

I know it is not needed but I patterned 2 rounds at 40 yards to see if it would be any better than anything else, the flight control with the turkey choke and modified choke are about the same as not spectacular, so those loads go back in to the cabinet until some "friend" comes by acting all tough like recoil does not matter to them ;)

Oh ya, after that a 3006 with a 220gr RN at 2450fps feels like a 22LR, ba ha ha
 
Fox said:
My concerns with Tikka and Sako always come to mind, first off is price, second is twist rate, looks to me like many are twisted for light short bullets and the third is the rings, they have to use proprietary rings. I have a short neck so many rifles for me require either a significantly longer eye relief or offset rings, I actually bought a stash of offset rings both 1in and 30mm, weavers, they seem to work with most rifles I have better than standard rings for me.

For recoil, if buying used I can always go shoot the factory ammo and get a feel for it before reloading but my 3006 with 200 and 220gr do not bother me, recoil only seems to bug me when I get up to 3.5in 12ga turkey loads, then I seem to get headaches, ha ha.

Based on the chuck hawks list the recoil should be in the ballpark of that 3006, but yes, I like a heavier rifle anyway and heavier will mitigate that for sure.

Why are you guys always shooting 3 shot groups and not 5 shot?
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the twist rate on factory rifles is always made to shoot all bullets people get twisted over twisted rates which is a non issue on factory rifles
if cost is your concern then you may have to for go the project and stick with what you have now
used rifles 700-1000$
 
7 Rems kick about the same as a 30-06, if you can shoot one you can shoot the other. I’ve never had trouble getting the Rem to shoot, which is more than I can say for my 30-06s.

A chronograph is definitely your friend, a lot of 7 Rem loads end up making blue box 30-06 look like the space shuttle. I’ve never seen a cartridge with so much velocity variation from barrel to barrel; why I have no idea. Quit wondering after a while.
 
struff55 said:
the twist rate on factory rifles is always made to shoot all bullets people get twisted over twisted rates which is a non issue on factory rifles
if cost is your concern then you may have to for go the project and stick with what you have now
used rifles 700-1000$
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$700 -1000 is not crazy, many rifles are being listed for $2500+, which I think is most likely insane and unnecessary.

Tikka changed to a 1 in 9in but the older rifles can have a 1 in 9.5 or 1 in 10 twist rate, when shooting long bullets that will cause serious stability issues.

I have had bullets hit sideways when pushing twist rate and my 222 does not like anything longer than a boat tail 50gr, 55gr and she starts to open up quite quickly.
 
The first rifle that I bought was a 7 mm RM, and once I got it zeroed and dialled in, I was actually so incredulous as to the groups that I had to check several times and make sure I hadn't shot one off the paper.
 
7mm rm is my go to rifle round for hunting most of the big game I pursue.
Pick a good quality rifle and good quality ammo and the rest is on the shooter.
Some say recoil can be an issue..... it is a sharp recoil pulse but felt recoil is a personal thing.
I'm 160 lbs and a few inches shy of 6ft... and I have a spine/pelvic disability..... my go to caliber is still the 7mm rm.
Swap out whatever buttpad the factory stocks come with for a decellerator or limbsaver rubber butt pad and forget all about recoil being a factor.
works for me.
 
I’ve owned a few , browning xbolt SS stalker,Tikka SS heavy barrel and a rem 700 wood stock.
The rem kicked like a mule and the xbolt was hardly any felt recoil.
The Tikka was to front heavy.

Out of the 3 the xbolt shot the best groups and was the least kicking mule.
For a hunting rifle the Xbolt is way above the other two.
 
Fox said:
My concerns with Tikka and Sako always come to mind, first off is price, second is twist rate, looks to me like many are twisted for light short bullets and the third is the rings, they have to use proprietary rings. I have a short neck so many rifles for me require either a significantly longer eye relief or offset rings, I actually bought a stash of offset rings both 1in and 30mm, weavers, they seem to work with most rifles I have better than standard rings for me.

For recoil, if buying used I can always go shoot the factory ammo and get a feel for it before reloading but my 3006 with 200 and 220gr do not bother me, recoil only seems to bug me when I get up to 3.5in 12ga turkey loads, then I seem to get headaches, ha ha.

Based on the chuck hawks list the recoil should be in the ballpark of that 3006, but yes, I like a heavier rifle anyway and heavier will mitigate that for sure.

Why are you guys always shooting 3 shot groups and not 5 shot?
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Five shots out of a 7mm Remington Magnum will do two things.

1 - You will heat up the barrel to the point of throat erosion, or you will sit there waiting 20 minutes plus for the barrel to cool down, between shots. (All depending on the outside temperature of course)
2 - Develop a flinch because the recoil can be a spanker if the rifle is too light-weight.

Three shot groups should be able to be obtained without heating her up too bad. Although, I wait in between shots to allow the barrel to cool down a bit.

A 375 Ruger has a worse recoil, but accuracy can easily happen if one takes time between those shots. :)
 
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