How hard to grip it!!!!!

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Haha, Ok, just wondering what would be considered a good strong grip. ( Shadow ) I am capable of crushing the pistol, ok not quite, but I notice large poi change as I am learning how to properly hold and aim the gun. Have only fired 100 rounds with it so far. Managed one 20 round 4.5" group, and one 20 round 5" group both at 16 yards.
 
Grip firmly and equally, without gripping hard enough to make your hands shake. Make sure that your support hand wrist breaks (this is important), the thumb points forward and the fingers of the support hand point toward you at a 45 degree upward angle from level.
 
If your shooting two handed and are right handed, your right hand grip on your pistol should not be strained or tight at all. Do not squeeze with your right hand, nice easy grip. Your left hand should wrap over your right hand and provides the grip and strength to hold onto the pistol. In this manner your trigger finger remains relaxed. It is just as important to have a smooth constant trigger pull if you wish to be accurate. At 25 meters this is important, I find it matters less when shooting closer combat drills. Good grip, excellent trigger control and focus on your front sight while shooting will help you be accurate. I'm sure others have there own thoughts on this, but this is how I was trained and teach others to shoot. Gripping too tight will make you pull your shots, hope this helps.
 
I have been watching Todd Jarrett vids, and it's helped me understand where to place my hands, just need to focus on consistently doing it the same each and every time. Most of my bad shots according to the pie chart, showed breaking the wrist (12 o clock ), had a few down at 4 o clock as well. I did take less trigger and it brought it back to center.
 
I have been watching Todd Jarrett vids, and it's helped me understand where to place my hands, just need to focus on consistently doing it the same each and every time. Most of my bad shots according to the pie chart, showed breaking the wrist (12 o clock ), had a few down at 4 o clock as well. I did take less trigger and it brought it back to center.

Finger placement is important, make sure you have the right size grips on you pistol if it offers that feature. You should comfortably be able to reach the trigger without to much empty space or stretching. Generally speaking the trigger should be centered on your fingerprint. I actually find just slightly past center of my fingerprint. You don't want to have the trigger in the first joint as this is too far, this again will cause pulling of the shot. Hope this is clear enough, you will find the best spot for you by practice and experimenting. One can go on and on, breathing is important as well. Anyway practice until these things become muscle memory. Focus on each point and if you start shaking from gripping to tight or holding your breath don't take the shot. Relax and try it again; bottom line is have fun and don't get bent out of shape if the shot is off, we all stated that way.
 
Haha, Ok, just wondering what would be considered a good strong grip. ( Shadow ) I am capable of crushing the pistol, ok not quite, but I notice large poi change as I am learning how to properly hold and aim the gun. Have only fired 100 rounds with it so far. Managed one 20 round 4.5" group, and one 20 round 5" group both at 16 yards.

Thats good shooting at 16 yards I think. If I was shooting like that I wouldn't be asking for advice, i'd probably have people asking me for advice:)
 
A firm handshake grip is what you should be attempting to achieve. If you see tremors in your front sight, lighten it up a bit. Finger contact with the trigger should be with the first pad of the trigger finger so that the finger points 90 degrees to the line of the bore. Now all through history we've been told to squeeze the trigger. Squeezing the trigger a lie propagated by people who never wanted you to shoot well. If you hold your finger out for a baby to grasp, the baby will squeeze your finger, using the strength of his/her entire hand. The correct way to fire a pistol is to press the trigger so that your trigger finger moves independently from the rest of your hand. This takes practice. If you hold an imaginary pistol in your hand and move your trigger finger, chances are that your other finger move sympathetically. When this happens it disrupts your hold on the target. That's the problem, and the solution to the problem is dry firing which allows you to see errors that live fire does not. When you can dry fire without the front sight moving off your aiming point as the hammer drops, you've got it and your scores will soar. What the front sight covers when the hammer clicks is where the bullet went. When you can dry fire without disrupting your front sight, it is not a sign that you should stop your dry fire practice. Pistol shooting is a degradable skill, and if you don't keep at it regularly, both dry and live fire, you won't stay on top of your game.
 
Grip firmly and equally, without gripping hard enough to make your hands shake. Make sure that your support hand wrist breaks (this is important), the thumb points forward and the fingers of the support hand point toward you at a 45 degree upward angle from level.

This. I also adjust after the first round on how much or less I need to grip the pistol. What's more important I observed (for my self) was to keep the arms straight and firm to try to maintain target acquisition quicker.

The challenge I have observed is around the pistol grip, depending on the size of your hands, your trigger finger position maybe just right, less or longer and have to adjust for that too in your grip. My hands are big and often have to somewhat pull back my grip so that my trigger finger do not go past and just land right on the trigger.
 
Great thread topic. I've actually been experimenting with this exact topic over the past few weeks. I've come to the conclusion that I've been be chronically under gripping my pistols for years. By this I mean not using nearly enough grip pressure with both my hands.

One of the best way's I've found to test this is by doing the dry fire "Wall Drill" (link below). Use this drill and experiment with various grip strengths and draw your own conclusions. Your front sight will give you all the information you need. You can also use this drill to tell you a bunch of things about your grip, trigger press and trigger finger placement.

Spend ten minutes a few times a week on this drill and you'll learn a lot about what works for you. Word of caution: Don't "stage" your trigger when using this drill. Use a the same smooth and consistent press you would use at speed.

ht tp://pistol-training.com/archives/118
 
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It's not just how hard(100% / 100%!), but where you put your hands, and what you do to lock each joint between you and the gun. Locking your wrists and rolling your elbows in towards each other can help hold the gun down.

The stronger your hold, the quicker your front sight is back on target, because there is a very small amount of front sight lift, compared to a gun that's dancing out of your hands.

If you're doing it right, you'll see the front sight just blip up between the rear posts.
And always focus on the front sight, before and after each shot. It tells you where your shot is going and more importantly, where it went.



This is a pretty good description.
He does a good job of describing fundamentals in many of his vids.
The guy's nuts, but he knows how to teach... lol

 
When I started shooting I was told 60/40 was a good way to think about it. For a right hander, the right hand is 40% and the left hand is 60%. So you allow the left or weak hand to hold the right hand still.

If you squeeze too hard, you hinder the physics of recoil. The pistol is meant to rise if it's an auto and roll in the palm if a revolver. If you're getting pain or fatigue in your hands, wrists, or arms you're likely gripping to hard.
 
^I grip handguns as hard as I can and miraculously they cycle without hindrance...

There is most definitely physics involved but the less you grip a pistol, the more likely for it to not cycle fully.
 
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