I use 19.2 grs Clays, 12 pellets, wad is an Activ T42, Win primers and CIL Target Load 3-9 hulls. The Activ wad is deep enough but not high enough and I had to put 2 homemade wads of corrugated cardboard over the pellets to get a good crimp. The hulls and wads were what I had a lot of so I wanted to use them up. When I make up my next batch I'll see if the W-32 works better and avoid the tedious cardboard wads.
Due to popular demand, here is the method I use with the Do-It mold.
I've only used mine with a Lee 20 lb bottom pour melting pot. First use acetone then boiling soapy water to degrease the mold cavities like you would any other mold .Mark the aluminum base of the pot under the spout so that when the mold is resting on the base the first (nearest the hinge) of the 11 cavities is directly under the pour spout. Use a marker pen and make it an "L" shape so you can put the do-It mold starting off in the same place each time. Have the mold pre-heated .As the flow of liquid lead starts, move the mold ahead fast enough so that just as one cavity fills, the next is available. IOW don't keep the mold stationary so that the cavities are filled by spillover alone. when you get to the 11th cavity, nearest the handle, quickly reverse motion and go back and forth until the space for the sprue is filled and you get a bit of a puddle on the top flats. Open the mold and hit the puddle to get the casting to drop away if needed. Hit the side that you are holding, so there is no strain put on the hinge.
If you don't get satisfactory fillout doing the above, use a drill bit that is the smallest size that just barely won't go through the top of the cavity openings, and drill out all the openings by that amount. I had to do that. Deburr if necessary.
The mold will get hot rapidly. Cool it from time to time by laying the sides on a damp towel, a second or two a side. I oil the hinges every 20 min or so with a drop of quality synthetic oil.
