How many gains Does A brand new Trimmed to lenght 30-06 brass weight???

Mobeasto

Mobeasto

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Hi guys, I have a bunch of 30-06 brass (about 300) that some have been shot once and some have been surely reloaded and maybe trimmed... So In my inspection of the case I like to sort them by weigth has I do for the Bullet so I know that I have some consistent load... But I wanna know how much does a brand new 30-06 case Trimmed to lenght weight in grains or in grams like you want????. On my electronic scale I Got a lot of them maybe half a 12.1 grams.. So When I get some a 12.0 and 11.9 or 11.8 I know that they have been shot more than one time and surely trimmed more than once...

I'm mostly using Winchester brass but If you guys have the weight or Remington and Federal brass That would be cool ( have a lot of them too)

All thanks in advance
 
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Weight in grams means absolutely nothing to me. A 30-06 R-P (Remington) may easily weigh 20 grains more, than a W-W (Winchester.)
Brass with a difference like this should definitely be seperated as to weight.
The same charge of powder and same bullet in each, will give considerably higher pressure in the heavier brass empty.
 
Brass weight

H4831 is right, use the grains setting on your scale it has finer readings. My new Win. 30.06 brass sized not trimmed as it is below maximum length weighs an average of 187 grains. Rem weighs an average of 194.5 grains. But batch by batch things change, even match grade brass weights will vary. If you are into long range precision shooting you pick a deviation you can live with and discard any components that fall outside your standard.
Tick
 
I have 1600 Lapua .308 cases. The weight goes from 170 gr to 175 gr. I know you are looking for the weight of .30/06 but the point I am trying to make is it doesn't matter as long as they are batched the same.
As I shoot target rifle I figure 1 gr batches are good enough. If I was shooting F Class I might sort to .5 gr batches.
 
That's what I trying to do... I'm doing some batches with them... but Is there a point where I can tell nop this brass isn'nt good cause it is not enough heavy... Could that be a point to know if this brass have been fired 20 times or only 2 times... When I find some Brass at the field How can I tell If is better or worst than those I have at home..
 
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there's no way to do what you want- best to throw the brass if you're uncertain- as the shell is fired, the brass travels from the head to neck, decreasing the thickness of the brass at the head- the overall weight is the same, it's distributed differently- that's why you extend the life of the brass when you anneal- - the brass flows back to the head-and that's also why you get a failure just ahead of the head on many times fired brass-the only real way to figure out how many loads you're going to get out of a given brand is to start off with virgin and load till you start to see signs of failure- and you have to keep fastidious records, remembering to add 1 time if it's once fired- just to give you an idea, in 44 mag, a typical case ww) is 110 grains, a federal can run 120, and an rp- somwhere in the middle-
but what you're trying to do is not possible-the brass does NOT get lighter as it's fired- just the thickness is distributed differently
 
Ok so I was Ok with my first Idea ... I make some batches of a certains weight and keep inspecting the brass for cracks and any defects... And when I'm uncertain I just make some keyholder with them...

Thanks guys...
 
Just weighed some brass. 30-06

Federal 207
R-P 204
Older marked Winchester 187

45-70 brass
W-W 169
R-P 196

I wanted to see if there was any noticeable difference in the two different weights.
45 grains of 4895 and 420 grain cast bullet. Exactly same poi at 100 metres with both weights cases.
Had the casees been full of some type of powder it may have made a differenc, don't know.
 
Might have noted a bigger difference if you'd run them over the chronograph.
Even lot to lot in the same manufacturer can have significant weight differences.
At the normal hunting ranges I shoot at, I confine my enthusiasm to separating the cases by manufacturer.
 
I know guys That my question is for some real precision shooters with some precision rifle and all the precision equipement.... But as long as I reload only for one or two caliber.. I prefer to do it really well... I'm a really perfectionnist guy and a curious that is interrested in every aspect of a thing... Maybe that too much for what I do with my rifle but I like it...

But all thanks for your answers...
 
There is a good chance that the primer pockets will open up before you get case head separation, when using a modern rifle with close tolerences. Once you feel the primer seating a little softer than the others, set this one aside for practice only. Fire it and chuck it afterwards.
 
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