How tall is your bench?

Albertarookie

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Pretty self explanitory question I guess. I'm working up plans to build a new loading bench and have hit a snag, I have the worktop dimensions figured at 36" deep by 73" long. The workable area will only by 28" deep due to an 8" selving unit on the back. My issue come at the height of the worktop, 36" or 48". So how high are your benches? Help a brother out.

Thanks folks
 
Mine is 36.5". I'm 6'2. My Rockchucker is mounted on it, my 650XL has a strong mount and it sits really high. I plan on getting a drafting chair so I am at the right height. If you put the worktop too high and you buy a Dillon with a case feeder and strong mount, you might have some difficulty putting shells in it without removing it first.
 
Right now I'm running a lee single stage press and it is more than sufficient so no current plans to upgrade any time soon. Most of my loading is done sitting so I'm leaning toward the lower height. I'm just in the drafting phase of the bench right now and all I can gaurantee is it's going to be heavy, the top alone will be about 170 lbs, then add in the subframe and cabinets. I'm thinking all said and don the high side of 250 lbs
 
48 would be way too high for anything other than standing while at a press. Instead of making the bench higher make up a riser box for the press and then bolt the riser box to the bench. Then you have options for the future if you wish to reload while on a stool.

I knew I'd be reloading while seated so I opted for the normal 36 inch kitchen counter height.

Instead of a 36 inch wide table with the upper shelf unit sitting on it and being in the way I'd suggest you stick to a more typical 24 inch deep work top and mount the upper shelves to the wall. That'll allow you to keep the counter top more clear of clutter and to actually reach the back area more easily. I went with a 34 inch wide bench one time and learned to regret it. The back 10 to 12 inches just turned into a constant clutter.
 
I work in a lumber mill so the price on most of the wood will be really good. I'm planning to laminate 2"x4"x6' to my desired worktop depth and overlay it with either tin or 3/16 plexiglass. It should be solid after I put in a subframe for a couple drawers. It will be a very heavy bench if all goes according to plan
 
I work in a lumber mill so the price on most of the wood will be really good. I'm planning to laminate 2"x4"x6' to my desired worktop depth and overlay it with either tin or 3/16 plexiglass. It should be solid after I put in a subframe for a couple drawers. It will be a very heavy bench if all goes according to plan

Avoid the plexiglas. Not only does it scratch easily but it can shatter from pressure of a hard point being thumped down onto it. If you want to use plastic consider using the stuff sold for lining the walls of ice rinks. It's UHMW polyethylene. It does still scratch from sharp stuff being dragged over it but tends to not scratch as deeply as plexiglass will. And you can't shatter it for love nor money.

If you go metal don't go thin. At least 18Ga. And 14 or 16 would be better. The really thin stuff will dent from pressure that also dents the wood underneath.
 
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