How to avoid ring marks? Please advice.

Think about what is going on when friction mounting a painted (finished) scope inside metal rings then subjecting it to recoil....i don't think it's reasonable to expect no marking on the scope. If you do get marks the next set of rings covers them anyhow.
If you don't want marks buy rings with plastic inserts. Otherwise you have absolutely no guarantee you won't get ring marks on your scope....
 
As Alpheus and Tiriaq identified - the Burris inserts will 'self align' within their rings (which prevents stress from marring a scope tube) because their outer surface is spherical (and of course a softer plastic)...as are the 'Optiloc' inserts/rings . The only other rings that I am familar with that can be adjusted to virtually eliminate this type of marring due to misalignment are the EAW 'QD' rings and bases which have numerous provisions for adjustment to permit stress free scope mounting. FWIW ... I 'think' one of the attractions of the European 'Rail' mounting scopes and bases is their ability to also eliminate stress
 
I've had ATRS and other "high end" rings leave marks but have had 3-4 sets of both NEAR and SPUHR mounts and have never had them leave marks, might be worth looking into. Or like posted already, use a coaster...
 
mockba77 said:
Yes, but I can't figure out how they work with scope rings? Any pictures?
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I guess that went over your head. The guy was trying to make funny ( he was infact saying to use a coaster under your glass to avoid leaving ring marks on you table).
 
r204 said:
I guess that went over your head. The guy was trying to make funny ( he was infact saying to use a coaster under your glass to avoid leaving ring marks on you table).
Click to expand...

Thank you, r204. That's what I thought but decided to ask in case a word "coaster" somehow relates to scope rings.

Question for a one-piece mount owners (Larue, Neat, Spuhr) - what kind of experience did you have with your mounts? Any ring marks?

I also found these instructions on another forum:

1. Align your rings w/an alignment bar, to make the scope application stress free.
2. Liberally coat the inside of the rings w/Elmer's or any rubber cement.
3. Install the scope as usual. I know it looks like a real mess.
4. Do not attempt to remove the glue that squeezed out, until its dried. It should be excessive.
5. With your fingers, peel off the glue that's showing. For the glue thats between the scope and action, take a small towell, run it under the scope, and work it back and forth like shinning your shoe, the glue will peel right out.
6. You should now have a scope w/no marks when you remove it.

Did anyone try this?
 
mockba77 said:
Thank you, r204. That's what I thought but decided to ask in case a word "coaster" somehow relates to scope rings.

Question for a one-piece mount owners (Larue, Neat, Spuhr) - what kind of experience did you have with your mounts? Any ring marks?

I also found these instructions on another forum:

1. Align your rings w/an alignment bar, to make the scope application stress free.
2. Liberally coat the inside of the rings w/Elmer's or any rubber cement.
3. Install the scope as usual. I know it looks like a real mess.
4. Do not attempt to remove the glue that squeezed out, until its dried. It should be excessive.
5. With your fingers, peel off the glue that's showing. For the glue thats between the scope and action, take a small towell, run it under the scope, and work it back and forth like shinning your shoe, the glue will peel right out.
6. You should now have a scope w/no marks when you remove it.

Did anyone try this?
Click to expand...

Don't mean to come across as harsh but those instructions are given by someone who doesn't have a clue on what is important when mounting a scope.

I would run fast and as far away from this info as possible.

YIKES...

Jerry
 
I had a Vortex one piece precision mount (made by Seekins) and it didn't leave any bad marks on me, maybe some shiny spots you can see in the right light, but good luck avoiding those with a mat finish scope. With the NF 6 screw that left marks what I got was on the mounting surface of the mount it has two raised sections vs all flat surface on the wider mount, the top ring of the raised parts left 2 small lines both sides front and back ring on the scope, the edges of the rings top part dug into the tube.
 
mockba77 said:
Thank you, r204. That's what I thought but decided to ask in case a word "coaster" somehow relates to scope rings.

Question for a one-piece mount owners (Larue, Neat, Spuhr) - what kind of experience did you have with your mounts? Any ring marks?

I also found these instructions on another forum:

1. Align your rings w/an alignment bar, to make the scope application stress free.
2. Liberally coat the inside of the rings w/Elmer's or any rubber cement.
3. Install the scope as usual. I know it looks like a real mess.
4. Do not attempt to remove the glue that squeezed out, until its dried. It should be excessive.
5. With your fingers, peel off the glue that's showing. For the glue thats between the scope and action, take a small towell, run it under the scope, and work it back and forth like shinning your shoe, the glue will peel right out.
6. You should now have a scope w/no marks when you remove it.

Did anyone try this?
Click to expand...



Yes - I have done this. Background: put a 350 Rem Mag 700 Classic barreled action in a Mcmillan glass stock. Purchased a steel tubed 26mm 'Nickel Supra' fixed 4x,x36 scope ... heavy but great eye relief and tough reticle, excellent optics. I decided to use EAW 26mm QD rings. I didnt want to mar the scope tube and so tried electricians tape .. it 'bunched' and wouldnt permit the rings to fit together; tried scotch tape... rings closed but the scope shifted forward under recoil.... a problem with heavy scopes and 'snappy' recoil! Also the tape was torn in places. I tried rubber paper cement in the rings (note - EAW rings have circular grooves cut into them where the glue could settle) --- this is not a 'new' idea by any means and has been written about for many decades. Anyway the scope stopped slipping under recoil and the screw torque was about the same as I used with the tape -- with the same objective - not to mar the scope. So rubber cement works and I have no 'evidence' of marring (looked once under one cap) BUT three things to be aware of - I cleaned all the surfaces involved with alcohol so that the cement would hold... I dont know if this might accelerate rust on my steel tube; the EAW rings have grooves to 'hold' the cement - most rings have a smooth interior; and finally I do not know if there is ammonia in the rubber cement as there is in most silicon caulking. You want to avoid ammonia as it will accelerate rusting... as people who have used silicon with ammonia to seal their windshields have found.

If there were 26mm Burris posi align rings available at that time --- I would have used them. AND saved myself about $375 on the EAW's.
 
We almost always lap steel rings no matter the application and have rarely seen any problems as long as proper torque setting are observed. Nightforce recommends lapping their rings while Leupold does not. I had a long discussion with a Leupold engineer at the Leupold factory and he admitted the company policy was not to lap but he agreed with my reasons for lapping. We use a lapping bar also for determining ring alignment. Whatever works for people but I would not place any material between the scope body and the ring other than Burris inserts on their signature series. Phil.
 
mockba77 said:
NVShooter, I will decide myself when this thread can be closed. Ok?

AP and Dennis, thank you for the feedback and recommendations. I used a thin paper and an electrical tape myself with no issues (for a Nightforce scope+NF rings). Didn't damage the tube at all. Though, I would like to find a better way. Dennis, may I ask your opinion about rings vs. one piece mounts? Is the latter any better in this regard (for example, NF rings vs. Spuhr mount). Thank you.
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So you're running a $2500 dollar scope and ring package and you decided to use paper (which can trap and hold moisture) and electrical tape? Dude...lap the damned rings! You probably won't even have to lap them (I didn't in either of my Nightforce Ring and scope combos) but why would you try to get away with a bush fix? Doesn't make any sense.
 
Mystic Precision said:
Don't mean to come across as harsh but those instructions are given by someone who doesn't have a clue on what is important when mounting a scope.

I would run fast and as far away from this info as possible.

YIKES...

Jerry
Click to expand...

Agree 100%. Those directions were (originally) posted by a complete idiot. In fact, I now have a headache from reading them.
 
BigUglyMan said:
So you're running a $2500 dollar scope and ring package and you decided to use paper (which can trap and hold moisture) and electrical tape? Dude...lap the damned rings! You probably won't even have to lap them (I didn't in either of my Nightforce Ring and scope combos) but why would you try to get away with a bush fix? Doesn't make any sense.
Click to expand...

The NF and ATRS rings I had, both left scope marks. So, brand name doesn't matter. Burris sig rings 100% safe for the scope as well as some one-piece mounts. I don't want to lap the rings for a few reasons: 1) why to spend extra money just for one scope installation; 2) lapping kits for 34mm are still rare and most likely have to be ordered from the States; 3) lapped rings is impossible to resell if needed.

So, if I get, for example, NF rings ($300) + 34mm lapping kit ($100-120), I will spend more than $400 and I will never be able to sell the rings if I decide to upgrade the rifle/rings.

For example, Burris and Millet used to put double sided tape and anti-slip paper with their rings. I also read some good reviews of using rubber cement. I used electrical tape for NF scope/NF rings combo on my 338 Lapua Mag and it worked fine. No ring marks whatsoever and I didn't have problems with slippage or zero holds. Right now I'm leaning towards Spuhr one-piece mount as it's more rigid and according to the feedbacks I received from the owners, it doesn't leave any marks.
 
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