How to choose a Husqvarna rifle?

sunnydin

sunnydin

CGN Regular
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Location
SW lOntario
I am new to Huskys, and am looking at buying a Husqvarna in .308, 30.06, or .270. But which Model?
I am a Moose and Deer hunter, not a collector. I would like to buy an accurate Husky, not worn out truck beater.
Questions:
1. How do you take a chance when you are 500 to 1000 miles away from the CGN seller? Photos don't always "tell the story."
2. How do you inspect the bore, the sloppiness of the bolt, pitting, wood dents/scratches etc? Guess? Trust? Gamble?
3. Are the Deluxe versions truly Deluxe? Is it the Wood that is Deluxe, but the barrel is the same?
4. What is the difference in a 3100 vs a 4100 vs 1600 ( besides date of manufacture)
5. Are there some models to avoid? Like poor barrels or sloppy actions? or poor wood selection? prone to tang cracks etc.
6. I am thinking of a Model 4100 because I like the Forestock "Checkering and Cheek Piece. Is that a good model?
7. How do I know if a piece has had modifications (good or bad) with mismatched parts (from a distance like 500 to 1000 miles)? When I cannot check it out?
8. Does the Owner give full disclosure or is it "Buyers Beware?"
9. I am a Moose & Deer hunter not a "collector" so it doesn't have to have mirror finishes or be a rare version.
10. Is a place like Tradex a good place to go? Again I cannot go to Tradex in person to feel and cycle the action. Or is a Gun SHow or Gun Autcion better where I can handle the rifle "in person".
Sorry about all the questions, but there is a lot of information I don't have that I thought some good Husky guys might be able to share.
Thanks for any assistance!
 
Buying is always "Buyer Beware!". It doesn't matter if you are buying firearms, cars or houses. Caveat Emptor is enshrined in Canadian law.

The dealing that I have had with TradeEx have always been good, above board and honest. Just be sure that you have an understanding of the terminology they use such as "dark but shoot able bore". You can phone them and talk to them to clear up any questions you might have and they have always treated me very well.

The rest of it you are on your own. Do your research, Google is your friend, do Searches on CGN and ask questions of the sellers. The old saying about "A picture is worth a thousand words" might be true, but what if the story actually needed a thousand and one words to be complete?

On CGN check Trader ratings. Then go back on the sales listed on that sellers ratings and see who they have been dealing with and their trader ratings. Some of the sellers on here have stellar trader ratings.

For me the chase for a new firearm is part of the fun...sort of like hunting.

Set your own limits. Example for myself if the cost of a firearm goes past 3/4 the price of new then I will go buy new. The condition to this being if the firearm you are searching for is even available new. Then the market sets the price.

My two cents.
Dave​
 
i'm partial to the 1600's due to them being lighter in weight and as strong or stronger than the other actions .

issues with the 1600's , they can break at the wrist . but they are what at least 40 or 50 years old now , so if they haven't broken yet ..... the last one i repaired , i hollowed out the wrist area with a die grinder and filled it with 3m's panel bond . i then rebarreled it to 9.3 x62 , from 270 and have used it for 3 years now without issue .

i believe they all can crack in te stock just behind the tang .

if your dealing with tradex , they are very honest and easy to deal with .

pretty much all of them are very solid , reliable extremely well built rifles .

if there is any fault with them , it lies with how they where cared for rather than any built in flaw .

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Husky in 30'06 will be the best all around choice. Tradex has many, can't go wrong with them. Ask for more pics if you see one you like, they are accommodating
 
If you are at all "fussy" about triggers, you might not like a Husqvarna rifle.
I really like the rifles, but after trying 3 or 4 and having the best trigger smith I know "tune" the triggers, I sold them all and have given up my Husqvarna search.
There are replacement triggers(Huber) available in the USA, but too much time and trouble for me.
 
Pete G said:
If you are at all "fussy" about triggers, you might not like a Husqvarna rifle.
I really like the rifles, but after trying 3 or 4 and having the best trigger smith I know "tune" the triggers, I sold them all and have given up my Husqvarna search.
There are replacement triggers(Huber) available in the USA, but too much time and trouble for me.
Click to expand...

lap the bearing surfaces of the sear for at least 90% contact then hone with a 10,000 grit stone .
hone the other bearing surfaces on the trigger and finish hone them with a 10,000 grit stone.
clip a couple coils off the spring on the trigger .
and if need be install a lighter spring on the firing pin .

I've found them not really any different than any other mauser .
 
burnt_servo said:
lap the bearing surfaces of the sear for at least 90% contact then hone with a 10,000 grit stone .
hone the other bearing surfaces on the trigger and finish hone them with a 10,000 grit stone.
clip a couple coils off the spring on the trigger .
and if need be install a lighter spring on the firing pin .

I've found them not really any different than any other mauser .
Click to expand...


I am sure that all that would certainly help, but I do not have the skills to do that kind of work.
Always relied on the trigger smith who was able to lighten the pull weight but not able to totally eliminate trigger creep.
 
A big husqvarna fan here, but their triggers are a weak spot for me. If I could find a couple of factory adjustable triggers I'd get a few more husqvarnas (1600 series) without question.
 
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