How to deep clean old handguns?

Painkillers said:
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If they were mine, I'd field strip them and place the parts in a varsol bath and leave them sit for several days to a week. Then a brush and further (complete disassembly) tear down, cleaning all surfaces. I would rinse the parts with CLP, reassemble and wipe down any excess. Then I'd take them to the range and get them dirty again. ;)
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Semi autos need a layer of carbon as a frictionless contact surface. Hot oil and deposited carbon create that surface. Browning pattern models work well when operated on the principle of, 'the wetter the better'.
 
Debured all the visible sharp edges, bluing done and all well lubed.
Have not shoot it yet, only tinkering in my mans cave.
Still the action/cocking is very heavy, unless I pull back the hammer first. So the issue is not with a grease or a friction on sliding parts.
Reading from AI suggestions, looks like this M57 was an service/army pistol, and the the hammer assembly spring is much harder.
The firing pin spring is easy, and the trigger spring is about acceptable hard . Most likely the combination of trigger and hammer spring together acts harder they I was expecting.
Not sure if I can find another M57 from members in the club, only to compare. It is colder they I would like to spend couple hours outdoors.
I am my own diy mechanic gunsmith, but if I cannot locate some softer springs I may visit some professional gunsmith to inspect the pistol ???
 
bigHUN said:
I was in a garage all day. Inside about 16C, but outside 5C raining and the moisture probably in mid to high 90's.
I put the project remaining parts aside for now. I could not find my gun oil bottle so for now just spray all with WD40. This , darkened the two parts a little bit. I know not the best but I have no other oils in my garage other than new motor oils, for case of emergency may be enough.
Looking at amazon, late for today delivery just for anything.
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I heat the parts and heat the bluing solution and after bluing I soak the parts overnight in oil and use the finest steel wool for a light rub down, then wipe down with micro fiber cloths.

Results are borderline acceptable doing this and larger pieces come out unevenly blued, but it's good enough to stop corrosion and squeeze another 25 years of service out of a gun.
 
bigHUN said:
What oil you using?
I have only car engine oils, new in cans and used always delaying to drop it off to recycling place.
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I use whatever I have available.....but new...not used.
I dilute used oil 50/50 with various thinners and use a garden sprayer to spray underneath equipment, been doing it to trucks and cars since I was a teenager.
Dad couldn't afford Ziebart rust proofing , thatvwas the big name back then, so he and his friends did this......better than nothing....

Most used oil goes to the local garage whenever im there for repairs
 
Looks like I will give up with restoration of this CZ TT 7.62.
I was in a club last week to make some 3x5 test shots, and the results on paper were far from acceptable.
My bore cam app was down for some time I could not check the rifling, but last night I got it fixed.
A quick look inside the barrel, and the condition is very bad... deep corrosion marks all length the land and groves. No possible fix for that, this gun was sitting probably couple decades without any attention.
So far this handgun cost me zero $, I only lost my time working on it, there it goes back to a safe storage.

The next project is a Baykal IZH-35M 22LR target pistol, if I could figure how to take it apart for cleaning and lubing. No utube videos about that one.
 
I just normally spray it with oil, scrub with a tooth brush under hot water. Then use a air compressor to blow out the water. Then oil.

I put my CZ in the ultra sonic with simple green and now my finish is ruined.

20240924_221214.jpg
 
bigHUN said:
Debured all the visible sharp edges, bluing done and all well lubed.
Have not shoot it yet, only tinkering in my mans cave.
Still the action/cocking is very heavy, unless I pull back the hammer first. So the issue is not with a grease or a friction on sliding parts.
Reading from AI suggestions, looks like this M57 was an service/army pistol, and the the hammer assembly spring is much harder.
The firing pin spring is easy, and the trigger spring is about acceptable hard . Most likely the combination of trigger and hammer spring together acts harder they I was expecting.
Not sure if I can find another M57 from members in the club, only to compare. It is colder they I would like to spend couple hours outdoors.
I am my own diy mechanic gunsmith, but if I cannot locate some softer springs I may visit some professional gunsmith to inspect the pistol ???
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7.62x25 is a hot round. Putting lighter springs in can cause the slide to bash the frame.
 
OkayShooter said:
.....I put my CZ in the ultra sonic with simple green and now my finish is ruined.
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My was about a same. I did some bluing 4-5 times over and over again, and just leave it there. Far from perfect looking, but this supposto be a range gun not in display salon.
But my other question.
Deep corrosion "craters" inside rifling.... not much I can help there. It will always be extensive fouling but not expecting a huge blow by in the groves.
I don't think this M57 can be a "shooter" again, but for occasional range "plinking"?
 
bigHUN said:
My was about a same. I did some bluing 4-5 times over and over again, and just leave it there. Far from perfect looking, but this supposto be a range gun not in display salon.
But my other question.
Deep corrosion "craters" inside rifling.... not much I can help there. It will always be extensive fouling but not expecting a huge blow by in the groves.
I don't think this M57 can be a "shooter" again, but for occasional range "plinking"?
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Steel wool and oil, on a brass brush. May clean it up.

Alot of 762x25 were corrosive, so why you seeing rust. As likely wasn't properly cleaned after each use.

They never were meant to be an accurate gun, just a service pistol. Hence the heavy trigger, loose tolerance and crude sights.
 
OkayShooter said:
......... Alot of 762x25 were corrosive, so why you seeing rust. As likely wasn't properly cleaned after each use................
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I have brass brushed the rifling to shiny it toke me pretty long. What I am seeing with the bore cam - also with jewellers lupe - the corrosion is not a build up but - bite in, like a sponge surface with endless number of dig outs now.
My friend told me he bought this 762x25 long ago as a project gun or for spare parts. But as much I know him that guy have no patience to maintain any guns - or tools - he has.
I serviced he's airguns in the past, and learned long ago all these people with deep pockets shall be hang by their balls for reckless owning :) .
 
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Any idea?
How can I remove this barrel for cleaning?

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Unknown history of maintenance, feels and looks dry like haven't been dusted of or oiled for long.

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bigHUN said:
Could happen as well that these powder much more aggressive on barrel rifling vs the modern materials.

View attachment 1038208
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Well you said you buddy doesn't maintain and most 762x25 ammo has corrosive primers. So being that he didnt clean after use, the corossive salts just chewed and pitted the metal.

Its the primers normally that are corossive. Look at all the rusted SKS, it is the same thing.
 
As far I could go... the barrel I cannot remove without trying with some extensive force. I don't want to clamp it in a vice, the machined skeleton body may not survive?
I grew up in manufacturing and fabrications, this parts machining looks impressive for a 2004 Russia build.

My best guess at the moment is that I will clean that barrel from the muzzle, otherwise can't have access to rifling from back.

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Heading out to a dollar store, I need some shallow plastic containers to prepare a oil bath.

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