- Location
- West coast of Vancouver Island
Could anyone direct me to or tell me where I could find out the date of manufacture for my M1 Carbine? Please and thank you.
SW
SW
How to find out when my M1 Carbine was made?
- Thread starter Steppenwolf
- Start date
BRAMEL said:Opps! Maybe I should have read it twice.
Bramel:
Actually, I need to thank you for posting that link; there's a lot of good info there. I ran my serial numbers through, but none of them were in the database... If only these girls could talk...
- Location
- West coast of Vancouver Island
Plinker,
Thanks for your offer, PM sent.
SW
Thanks for your offer, PM sent.
SW
stencollector
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
Plinker: Can you look up mine? M1A1 Serial 3788xx. Barrel date is 4-43, which I presume to be origional.
Can anyone reccomend a gunsmith who is good at replacing these barrels? Someone previously welded a rifled extension onto the end of the barrel which, unfortunately, the RCMP lab has decided does not count. I've got a replacement barrel which I'll have shortened to 19-1/4 to meet the OAL length requirement. I'll have the extension lathed off the origional barrel and keep the barrel as a spare.
Can anyone reccomend a gunsmith who is good at replacing these barrels? Someone previously welded a rifled extension onto the end of the barrel which, unfortunately, the RCMP lab has decided does not count. I've got a replacement barrel which I'll have shortened to 19-1/4 to meet the OAL length requirement. I'll have the extension lathed off the origional barrel and keep the barrel as a spare.
Sten:
No problem - is that an original folder, or a repro? Any interest in selling?
Your carbine was probably born in late June, 1943. Barrel is probably original, especially if it's an Inland barrel.
On replacing the barrel, you need the right tools. Some gunsmiths will try to do it without the correct block & wrench, and will end up trashing (or at least marring) the receiver.
No problem - is that an original folder, or a repro? Any interest in selling?
Your carbine was probably born in late June, 1943. Barrel is probably original, especially if it's an Inland barrel.
On replacing the barrel, you need the right tools. Some gunsmiths will try to do it without the correct block & wrench, and will end up trashing (or at least marring) the receiver.
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stencollector
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
It's origional. I was told it was a vet bring back from Italy, but who knows. The barrel is an Inland, and the wood is the high wood. Not selling it at this time. It's a fun shooter, but I don't want the restricted status.
I have the tooling to change Enfield barrels, and so depending on what a smith would charge, I may just order, from Brownells, different adapters for the carbine. If the cost ends up about the same, at least I have the tools in the end. I definitely do not want to mar the receiver.
I have the tooling to change Enfield barrels, and so depending on what a smith would charge, I may just order, from Brownells, different adapters for the carbine. If the cost ends up about the same, at least I have the tools in the end. I definitely do not want to mar the receiver.
Sten:
Very nice carbine! If you ever decide to part with her, let me know. I've got a badly butchered original M1A1 that I'm trying to restore, but finding a correct barrel has been a real problem. Mine was built two months after yours, but the folding stock was pretty much ruined after Bubba was done with it.
What make is your replacement barrel? Some of the commercial, non-restricted, barrels will thread-on okay, but have interference problems with the slide.
Very nice carbine! If you ever decide to part with her, let me know. I've got a badly butchered original M1A1 that I'm trying to restore, but finding a correct barrel has been a real problem. Mine was built two months after yours, but the folding stock was pretty much ruined after Bubba was done with it.
What make is your replacement barrel? Some of the commercial, non-restricted, barrels will thread-on okay, but have interference problems with the slide.
stencollector
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
Unsure as to what the brand the replacement barrel is. I got it thru a WTB ad here on CGN. The barrel is either new, or almost new. It's 20-1/2" long, about an inch and a bit longer than I need. Fortunately, shortening it by that amount will get rid of the front sight slot.
I'll try the slide out before I go any further.
Just checked Brownells; the M1 carbine receiver adapter I need is around $33 US, so I guess I'll just go this route. It would cost me at least that much just to mail the rifle back and forth to the gunsmith.
I'll try the slide out before I go any further.
Just checked Brownells; the M1 carbine receiver adapter I need is around $33 US, so I guess I'll just go this route. It would cost me at least that much just to mail the rifle back and forth to the gunsmith.
I've had two carbine bbl swaps done by Jason Spencer at Gunco in Ottawa. he has the right receiver wrench and bbl blocks.
Or you can order them from Brownells and do it yourself. Might be a good route if you plan on doing several bbl swaps.
Or you can order them from Brownells and do it yourself. Might be a good route if you plan on doing several bbl swaps.
- Location
- West coast of Vancouver Island
Thanks to Plinker I was able to find out: "Roughly, your carbine was around the 81830th gun they built. Based on the cumulative monthly production totals, your carbine was probably built in Sept. 1943." Thanks again.
Sten, I love the folding stock, the original folders are worth their wait in gold down south.
SW
Sten, I love the folding stock, the original folders are worth their wait in gold down south.
SW
Claven2 said:
Claven: Actually, Jason doesn't, but he's one of the few 'smiths who can do the job with what he has on hand, without trashing things. We talked about it a while back, and I offered to loan him my block & wrench if he ever needs them...
stencollector said:
It might be an idea to drop into the M1 Carbine forum over at www.ambackforum.com, and post a question on barrel swaps. I'm sure you'll get some good tips. There are folks over there that do them pretty regularly, and they're a pretty helpful bunch.
M1 Carbine re-barreling
Hello Stencollector & Plinker
Just looking at your discussion about Sten’s M1A1 and the re-barreling. My data indicates a 5-43 DOB for it, so a 4-43 Inland bbl would indicate an original. If the right base of the rear sight is marked with an “S” or “WSI” and you have a Type II dogleg hammer, chances are that it’s original.
I have re-barreled a few M1 carbines, so I can share my experience with you. It involves a lot more than just buying the receiver wrench and giving it a go. Most commercial wrenches are made of steel, and have a bit of slop in them when they slide over the fwd end of the receiver. As a result, the wrench will slip (slop yes, but not enough to use brass shims), mar the receiver surfaces or round out the sides. Also. it has been my experience that receivers and bbls that have been mated for more than 60 years need an impact force applied to the wrench ( I use a BFH) to “break” the threads. This is after a 2 week soak in penetrating oil. These commercial wrenches are not suitable for smacking, only applying a steady force thru leverage…..doesn’t work. The fwd tang on the receiver can snap off. I built my out clamp type wrench that is in 2 pieces, uses brass shims, and works quite well.
Another problem is the bbl vise to hold the assy. If the brass or aluminum jaws are not contoured to allow clearance for the Inland-style swaged-on gas chamber, it will rotate in the grip of these jaws. It will loosen the gas chamber, and hence degrade the operation of the carbine during cycling. Before I starting doing my own, a local well-known gunsmith did this on one of my Inlands. So a gunsmith can screw up M1 carbines too if they don’t know them well.
If you do a bbl swap, most commercial 19-20” bbl will need at least a proper headspace check with GO/NOGO gauges. If you need to shave out the chamber to meet safe specs, you need a finishing reamer. I bought both (Gauges & reamer) from Brownells a few years ago. I’m sure you know chamber reaming requires a bit of practice. I’ve only encountered one USGI 18” bbl that needed to be reamed (Winchester bbl to a Win receiver) to meet GO/NOGO.
On top of this, once you almost finished screwing on the replacement bbl, it has to be aligned properly. USGI bbls have alignment marks, some comm. bbls don’t. Still, you need to align the flat spots on the underside of the fwd receiver, with the underside of the flat spot of the bbl. Fun, with the wrench still attached. Best method I can find is using two steel bars about 1 X ½ X 8 long and use yr eyeball to align.
Your comm. bbl shouldn’t give you a slide problem, but might interfere with the wood handguard. Most long comm. bbls were made to fit on a carbine with the Iver-Johnson metal handguard. Very thin. Your wooden one will have to be filed down with a ¾ “ rotary course sander…..OK if you have a thick wood handguard, but if you have a deep grove early Type I handguard, it will be too weak after a sanding (too thin).
Maybe I have convinced you not to change bbls ( I hope). You have a great piece of history, why not have the existing bbl returned back to original restricted 18” and have this M1A1 “as issued” An M1A1 with a 19-20 “ bbl doesn’t look right with the folder. Mine didn’t, so I changed it back.
I can send photo of my clamp wrench if you want..it’s quite simple to make.
manteo97 in central Ontario
Hello Stencollector & Plinker
Just looking at your discussion about Sten’s M1A1 and the re-barreling. My data indicates a 5-43 DOB for it, so a 4-43 Inland bbl would indicate an original. If the right base of the rear sight is marked with an “S” or “WSI” and you have a Type II dogleg hammer, chances are that it’s original.
I have re-barreled a few M1 carbines, so I can share my experience with you. It involves a lot more than just buying the receiver wrench and giving it a go. Most commercial wrenches are made of steel, and have a bit of slop in them when they slide over the fwd end of the receiver. As a result, the wrench will slip (slop yes, but not enough to use brass shims), mar the receiver surfaces or round out the sides. Also. it has been my experience that receivers and bbls that have been mated for more than 60 years need an impact force applied to the wrench ( I use a BFH) to “break” the threads. This is after a 2 week soak in penetrating oil. These commercial wrenches are not suitable for smacking, only applying a steady force thru leverage…..doesn’t work. The fwd tang on the receiver can snap off. I built my out clamp type wrench that is in 2 pieces, uses brass shims, and works quite well.
Another problem is the bbl vise to hold the assy. If the brass or aluminum jaws are not contoured to allow clearance for the Inland-style swaged-on gas chamber, it will rotate in the grip of these jaws. It will loosen the gas chamber, and hence degrade the operation of the carbine during cycling. Before I starting doing my own, a local well-known gunsmith did this on one of my Inlands. So a gunsmith can screw up M1 carbines too if they don’t know them well.
If you do a bbl swap, most commercial 19-20” bbl will need at least a proper headspace check with GO/NOGO gauges. If you need to shave out the chamber to meet safe specs, you need a finishing reamer. I bought both (Gauges & reamer) from Brownells a few years ago. I’m sure you know chamber reaming requires a bit of practice. I’ve only encountered one USGI 18” bbl that needed to be reamed (Winchester bbl to a Win receiver) to meet GO/NOGO.
On top of this, once you almost finished screwing on the replacement bbl, it has to be aligned properly. USGI bbls have alignment marks, some comm. bbls don’t. Still, you need to align the flat spots on the underside of the fwd receiver, with the underside of the flat spot of the bbl. Fun, with the wrench still attached. Best method I can find is using two steel bars about 1 X ½ X 8 long and use yr eyeball to align.
Your comm. bbl shouldn’t give you a slide problem, but might interfere with the wood handguard. Most long comm. bbls were made to fit on a carbine with the Iver-Johnson metal handguard. Very thin. Your wooden one will have to be filed down with a ¾ “ rotary course sander…..OK if you have a thick wood handguard, but if you have a deep grove early Type I handguard, it will be too weak after a sanding (too thin).
Maybe I have convinced you not to change bbls ( I hope). You have a great piece of history, why not have the existing bbl returned back to original restricted 18” and have this M1A1 “as issued” An M1A1 with a 19-20 “ bbl doesn’t look right with the folder. Mine didn’t, so I changed it back.
I can send photo of my clamp wrench if you want..it’s quite simple to make.
manteo97 in central Ontario
stencollector
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
The rear sight has the letters SI in the area just behind the front blade.
Thanks for sharing your experiance re the barrel swap; I'll have to think it over carefully. My collecting interests aren't really in to the US weapons....If it was an Enfield sniper you want to bet it would have had the origional barrel on it in a minute. I'll likely just have the extension lathed off for now, and see how I feel in the future on this carbine.
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