How to fix detached rib on a Winchester 50 trap gun?

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pacobillie

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I bought a used Winchester Model 50 trap shotgun (Not on the EE). After a round of trap, the rib got loose. I suspect that the seller knew about it, but withheld the info. In any event, I like the gun and shoot it well. So, I would like to fix and keep it.

It looks like the rib should snap into the posts and be held by two cross pins. The latter are broken. The rib now slides back and forth on the posts. An attempt to epoxy glue it back in place was not successful. The glue broke under recoil before the end of the first round of trap.

How do I fix that or get that fixed?
 
I would have suggested Klaus Hiptmayer but unfortunately he died 2 or 3 years ago.

I suggest the you contact these people.

Precision Arms & Gunsmithing Ltd
2974 King Rd unit 3, King City, ON L7B 1L6
 
If the pins are broken find the correct diameter and replace them, if the posts are broken then a gunsmith should be able to repair or reattach them.
 
If it was mine and it was just the pins broken I would find a drill bit with the same diameter of the pins if the remains of the pins come out use the shank of the drill for the pins if they don't come out drill them out with the drill then use the shank as the pins. alternatively you could order the pins from a parts site but they will be a lot more expensive than a couple of drill bits
 
WobblyHead said:
If it was mine and it was just the pins broken I would find a drill bit with the same diameter of the pins if the remains of the pins come out use the shank of the drill for the pins if they don't come out drill them out with the drill then use the shank as the pins. alternatively you could order the pins from a parts site but they will be a lot more expensive than a couple of drill bits
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Replacing the pins was the solution initially proposed by my gunsmith. However, he opted against it and epoxied it and I believe the reason is that the rail could still potentially come off the posts, since it is merely snapped into place on the rails. There are two grooves in the post and flange where the pins would normally fit. I suspect that the previous owner snapped it back in place a few times too many and the edge of the rear post flanges are now somewhat worn out. Pins would prevent the rib from moving back and forth, but maybe not from becoming "unsnapped".
 
Your first post said pins are "broken" - I assume you still have bits of them left in place, or did they fall out?? Different issues, if you are trying to fix at home. "Broken" as in sheared off, suggests original pins were not hard enough - and then harder pins transfer load to next weakest point which may or may not be strong enough to hold. If pins "fell out" than want to look at center punching the ends once installed, to enlarge both ends slightly so can no longer slide through. Might have even been a combination of the two - pins started to walk out, to the point only held by one side, not both, then sheared off. If you do start drilling at it, expect to pay some serious coin to someone else to repair what you started - might want to just get it, as is, to someone who knows what they are doing...
 
Potashminer said:
Your first post said pins are "broken" - I assume you still have bits of them left in place, or did they fall out?? Different issues, if you are trying to fix at home. "Broken" as in sheared off, suggests original pins were not hard enough - and then harder pins transfer load to next weakest point which may or may not be strong enough to hold. If pins "fell out" than want to look at center punching the ends once installed, to enlarge both ends slightly so can no longer slide through. Might have even been a combination of the two - pins started to walk out, to the point only held by one side, not both, then sheared off. If you do start drilling at it, expect to pay some serious coin to someone else to repair what you started - might want to just get it, as is, to someone who knows what they are doing...
Click to expand...

Picture the cross section of the rib as a squarish C, with the opening facing down. The rib slides (or snaps) over the flanges at the top of the posts. There are two cross-holes for pins in the side of the rib. The end parts that go through the side holes are there, but the middle portion that goes through the middle of the rib, and through the grooves in the post flanges, is missing.
 
pacobillie said:
Picture the cross section of the rib as a squarish C, with the opening facing down. The rib slides (or snaps) over the flanges at the top of the posts. There are two cross-holes for pins in the side of the rib. The end parts that go through the side holes are there, but the middle portion that goes through the middle of the rib, and through the grooves in the post flanges, is missing.
Click to expand...

So basically the post is worn away the only way your going to fix that is replace the post or build it up and sounds like some one tried to build it up with epoxy which doesn't work too well on steel and it didn't hold. The pins do help prevent the c channel coming apart but would not help much if the main post is very worn.

Edit There may be some Loctite products that might work. Loctite are basically a form of super glue not epoxy. Loctite 380 is supposed to work for that type of application but I would still use the pins it's not going to hurt and would help a little.
 
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I don't have a Model 50 to look at any more but IIRC the rib slides onto the posts (does not "snap" on ) over the post dove tails and the pin or pins hold it in place. If the post through which the pin or pins pass is in tact then you need only replace the broken - off pin after knocking the broken pin pieces out of both sides of the rib. They should be just a friction fit - not soldered but maybe a bit of Loctite. Replace the pin with an appropriate size drill bit shank. If the post is not all there to hold the pin then carefully drill a new pin hole ( about 1/16" diameter ) through the rib at an adjacent post and pin it there. It doesn't really matter which post retains the rib in position.
 
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