You have the ogive concept down but also remember that for accuracy each rifle reacts different to OAL. Some rifles are more accurate when you jam the the bullet into the 'lands', others require some 'jump' to the lands. My .308 is most accurate, all else being equal when I load 20 thou off the lands, your mileage may vary but part of the fun of reloading is finding what works best in your rifle. My hand loads are definitely more accurate than factory loads.
How to get into reloading
- Thread starter SigSavage
- Start date
If they are match, should be pretty damn close. The base/ogive are parts of the bullet that are "drawn" while the tip is left open/hollow so there is no structure/forming done.
Edit: I am talking about hpbt projectiles like smk's
Edit: I am talking about hpbt projectiles like smk's
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Correct.
The COAL or the distance to the tip of the bullet is entirely and wholly useless information because every bullet type and size will be different and bullets vary even within a box.
I suggest you set aside the neck turning tool for a couple of years until you have the hang of reloading. Neck turning is an advanced technique that is easy to screw up and done wrong has the potential to cause a serious problem.
I also suggest you stick to a decent balance beam scale. Those cheap digital units suffer from all kinds of issues with wandering measurements as they warm up and they can be influenced by fluorescent lights and air currents etc.
Thank you- this is good advice. Plus it saves me money not having to buy a scale 
. The only reason I got the neck turning tool is because it was on sale and it goes with the trimmer I bought as an accessory. I figured better to get it now and not need it for a while, vs not being to get one later.
. The only reason I got the neck turning tool is because it was on sale and it goes with the trimmer I bought as an accessory. I figured better to get it now and not need it for a while, vs not being to get one later.
Its better than "suppositories"
LordEvilPepper
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Under a rusty barge in BC
What you need is
The ability to size cases
To trim cases
To accuarately mesure powder
Mesure critical dementions
So a press
Dies
Case trimer
Scale
And calipers
Aviod lee... their presses are garbage.
Do yourself a solid. But a rcbs rock chucker. It can do magnum rounds without the ram banging out and getting sloppy. It will last a lot of years of hard use.
Dies are inportant... ive tried most brands. What ive come to the conclusion is... redding compitition s serries dies are the best... but they also cost like $300.... the next best... is also the cheapest... lee dies... and they have good avalibility
rcbs junk... lyman ok, hornady garbage... big issues with run out and what not. You realy start to notice things when your always doing military brass...
Case try trimming... you want to do it cheap and idiot proof? Buy the lee trimmer and guide... you can even use a hand drill And the hole thing costs as much as an 8 pack of beer.
The best one for accuracy is the Sinclair one from brownels.... but its going to cost you.
Scale get a good beam scale.... rcbs redding lyman will all work... avoid the lee one its junk. This is one of the most inportant things... if this item is inaccurate or inconsistent your buggered from the get go... those $30 scales drift...i tried one for a while.
Calipers... what ever works... lyman, rcbs, redding , canadian tire whatever.
After that its just convenience and fine tuning.
A good powder thrower funnel and trickler should be on your "buy next" list
Case tumbler (go stainless steel much better cleaning no residue or stuck media in the flash hole and the media last forever)
Eventualy if you choose buying things like run out gauges... neck trimmers, semi automatic primers, head space gauges and mics etc.
The ability to size cases
To trim cases
To accuarately mesure powder
Mesure critical dementions
So a press
Dies
Case trimer
Scale
And calipers
Aviod lee... their presses are garbage.
Do yourself a solid. But a rcbs rock chucker. It can do magnum rounds without the ram banging out and getting sloppy. It will last a lot of years of hard use.
Dies are inportant... ive tried most brands. What ive come to the conclusion is... redding compitition s serries dies are the best... but they also cost like $300.... the next best... is also the cheapest... lee dies... and they have good avalibility
rcbs junk... lyman ok, hornady garbage... big issues with run out and what not. You realy start to notice things when your always doing military brass...
Case try trimming... you want to do it cheap and idiot proof? Buy the lee trimmer and guide... you can even use a hand drill And the hole thing costs as much as an 8 pack of beer.
The best one for accuracy is the Sinclair one from brownels.... but its going to cost you.
Scale get a good beam scale.... rcbs redding lyman will all work... avoid the lee one its junk. This is one of the most inportant things... if this item is inaccurate or inconsistent your buggered from the get go... those $30 scales drift...i tried one for a while.
Calipers... what ever works... lyman, rcbs, redding , canadian tire whatever.
After that its just convenience and fine tuning.
A good powder thrower funnel and trickler should be on your "buy next" list
Case tumbler (go stainless steel much better cleaning no residue or stuck media in the flash hole and the media last forever)
Eventualy if you choose buying things like run out gauges... neck trimmers, semi automatic primers, head space gauges and mics etc.
LordEvilPepper
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Under a rusty barge in BC
I swear, I have a disruptive field... I've walked past a coworker using a saw that had "worked flawlessly for years" and it exploded, the next day I walked past a shelf of steel that hadn't been touched in 6 months and it collapsed. Not only did it collapse it did so in such a way it took out the new drill press that was beside it.
If its notwell built it breaks around me. Its why I got good at fixing things.
And for the record, my lee press broke popping a primer on a LC .308 case.... one of the link arms snapped in half.
then the other snapped doing IVI .223,
the only things i keep from the whole lee kit was the hand case trimer blade and drill shell plate holder (which has sat almost unused for years). and the funnel.... and the funnel broke too.
I bought a rock crusher for $150 and it worked flawlessly for years and thousands of rounds; when I sold it it stall ran true on the ram.
Never have any issues with redding products.
when you say something like that you're either misinformed or ill intended.
from a reloading point of view, there's not difference between magnum rounds and non-magnums.
OH MY!
What happens when you touch a woman?
What happens when you touch a woman?
I swear, I have a disruptive field... I've walked past a coworker using a saw that had "worked flawlessly for years" and it exploded, the next day I walked past a shelf of steel that hadn't been touched in 6 months and it collapsed. Not only did it collapse it did so in such a way it took out the new drill press that was beside it.
If its notwell built it breaks around me. Its why I got good at fixing things.
And for the record, my lee press broke popping a primer on a LC .308 case.... one of the link arms snapped in half.
then the other snapped doing IVI .223,
the only things i keep from the whole lee kit was the hand case trimer blade and drill shell plate holder (which has sat almost unused for years). and the funnel.... and the funnel broke too.
I bought a rock crusher for $150 and it worked flawlessly for years and thousands of rounds; when I sold it it stall ran true on the ram.
Never have any issues with redding products.
LordEvilPepper
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Under a rusty barge in BC
maybe "magnum" is the wrong choice of wording, when you do bigger rounds (like .338) it puts a lot of pressure on the ram, I found my lee was getting sloppy from doing military brass and the pressure it took to unseat the primers and bump back the shoulder after it was fired in an MG.
