How to get rid of the infamous CZ/VZ gremlin

Rauch Tactical said:
I'm curious to know how many people who have the gremlin can fix it by increasing the spring tension? If you have had the gremlin and increased the spring tension has it come back anyone?
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I have had the gremlin on my CZ (notice I say "had")

A good friend who is an extremely competent gunsmith showed and explained the reasoning as to why increasing the spring tension relieves the gremlins.

He installed a spring underneath the stock leaf spring that presses upwards. This increases the trigger pull weight, but the release is much more positive.

In a nutshell, the triggers are two light as the uh "leaf spring" has been modified, there should be more upward spring tension.

Before this mod, I had the FTF about 3 out of 15 fires. Yesterday, I participated in a 3 gun that included about 100+ rounds without a single "click" . I barely noticed the heavier trigger pull either. And some several touching doubletaps in "A" zones as well I might add :)

Hard to explain, but I'll take pictures when my son is asleep and I'm cleaning my guns :)
 
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Hmmmm. If this really is the issue, why does tabbing the carrier seem to rectify the problem.

Only problem I ever had were 4-5 light strikes causing a no-fire. Only did it that one day, with both surplus military AND commercial hunting ammo. Regardless, I'm getting the carrier tabbed while my rifle is at RT's for the coating process.

Anyone ever have the problem reoccur after the tabbing?
 
Mine has been tabbed for about a year, gone through at least a crate and 1/2, no issues..


peter2772000 said:
Hmmmm. If this really is the issue, why does tabbing the carrier seem to rectify the problem.

Only problem I ever had were 4-5 light strikes causing a no-fire. Only did it that one day, with both surplus military AND commercial hunting ammo. Regardless, I'm getting the carrier tabbed while my rifle is at RT's for the coating process.

Anyone ever have the problem reoccur after the tabbing?
Click to expand...
 
peter2772000 said:
Hmmmm. If this really is the issue, why does tabbing the carrier seem to rectify the problem.

Only problem I ever had were 4-5 light strikes causing a no-fire. Only did it that one day, with both surplus military AND commercial hunting ammo. Regardless, I'm getting the carrier tabbed while my rifle is at RT's for the coating process.

Anyone ever have the problem reoccur after the tabbing?
Click to expand...

All I know is that this method is the most cost effective (next to nill) abit heavier trigger pull BUT better trigger feel (if that makes sense)

Here are the pics after a hot water bath just before a good cleaning and oiling:

P1010008-1.jpg

The yellow arrow refers to what I've been calling a "leaf" spring. In the original versions of these rifles, there should be two of these pressing upwards, but for whatever reason when they modified these for the Canadian consumer, the removed one of these leaf springs.

P1010009.jpg


I don't have an exact measurement of the springs tension, but it is fairly stiff.

I've fired prone, almost sideways and rapid. No missed shots or ill timed clicks.

Hope that helps shed some light on the situation.
 
peter2772000 said:
Seems like a simple enuf mod. I may even try it, even if just fer grins.
Sure would like to know if anyone's tabbed 858's ever had the problem after the tabbing mod though.........:confused:
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Tabbing does SFA if you can't get the rifle to fire the first time.




same problem as is described here:
Xman said:
I was thinking about this today and after taking the trigger and sear apart, I think that what you actually need to do is add material to the trigger lip that hooks the sear rather than file some off.

A little material should be added at the end that is closer to the chamber. That way, when the sear is pushed down by the striker nose, it will not get hooked as soon. The sear reconnects to the trigger as soon as the sear heel passes beyond the little connector lip and gets hooked on its forward edge as the trigger spring pushes the connector upwards as soon as there is nothing in the way.

If that edge was further to the front, it would take the sear heel a little more traveling to get hooked on it, which means it would have to be pushed a little deeper. That's not likely to happen so the failure won't occur.

When the trigger is released after each shot, the top part of the trigger group move towards the back of the rifle and eventually the edge of the lip hooks the heel of the sear.

So, in conclusion, a different way to fix the gremlin would be to add a little material to the front of the connector lip.

I wonder if solder would be strong enough...

searandtriggerkd1.jpg
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My new 858 had the gremlin appear occasionally and after reading this thread, I tried Cyanide Rides "added spring". My additional spring isn't quite as heavy as in his, but it still worked perfectly! The trigger pull isn't bad at all either. 400 rounds later, not a single gremlin issue has occurred. Now that was a cheap, simple fix that worked great for me!
Al
 
I'm at a crate and a half after doing Cyaniderides' fix and not a single "Gremlin" issue has ever occured again. That cured my Gremlin totally with no welding or filing at all. You couldn't get a much cheaper fix! :D
 
thanks everyone for all the advice,I was just gonna post a question on fixing this problem, but it seems i got all the answers from here, thanks again very helpul
 
Well the gremlin showed its ugly head on my 858 after about 300 rnds.I put a c clip to stop it from drifting over.I will try this first to see if it works.If not i will try the spring trick.:)
 
Cyanide Ride said:
All I know is that this method is the most cost effective (next to nill) abit heavier trigger pull BUT better trigger feel (if that makes sense)

Here are the pics after a hot water bath just before a good cleaning and oiling:

P1010008-1.jpg

The yellow arrow refers to what I've been calling a "leaf" spring. In the original versions of these rifles, there should be two of these pressing upwards, but for whatever reason when they modified these for the Canadian consumer, the removed one of these leaf springs.

P1010009.jpg


I don't have an exact measurement of the springs tension, but it is fairly stiff.

I've fired prone, almost sideways and rapid. No missed shots or ill timed clicks.

Hope that helps shed some light on the situation.
Click to expand...

How is the additional spring held in place?
 
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