TacticalTeacher
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Georgian Bay, ON
How to Grease Your M14 / M305 / M1A / Garand (very similar) and What to Use...
So what kind of grease? Well I'm not gonna start a bun fight
but honestly Mr. Jean Cantius Garand never specified which brand of high tech composition grease back in 1936, but the USGI Manual did mention Molybdenum DiSulfide in there and let's use that as a starting point before our collective dicks fall off. In reality, if you don't grease your M1A / M14 / M305/ Garand, your #### WILL fall off... 
My applicators.... use what you can even Qtips, popsicle sticks, your fingers, expired toothbrushes ... these syringes sure make life easy though....

My particular favorite brand of grease only because it's white and easy to squeeze into the 12 mL 'Curved Tip' syringes from a Veterinarian Supply business/orthodontist/dentist/ East Vancouver dumpster, Toronto Beaches area on Lake Ontario Shoreline, Calgary needle exchange site, yada yada yada
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Here's a stealthy spot to smooth up your safety when it is engaged... Let the hammer forward. Locate that interior curve where the safety hooks the hammer (when rifle is cocked of course). A dab of grease on the hook...

Now the hammer hooks where they engage the hammer sear... Grease it and work the hammer (#### and click that hammer) and squeeze the trigger. Work that grease into the engaging surfaces.

This one is an easy one... examine the face of your hammer for the wear marks where bolt rides rear ward on the hammer face.... Then locate the hammer NOSE , you will spot it right away. Grease that FACE and NOSE of the hammer. Just look at my picture:

Can you see the syringe tip pointing at the "nose" of the hammer?

Now have a look at the piston/sliding/cylindrical portion of the Operating rod or the Op rod.... See where my CGN handle is written? Grease that portion as it rides through the op rod guide (figure 8 shaped thingy under the barrel).

Here's a picture of the op rod guide, AND the reminder to spread that grease 180* degrees around the op rod piston portion:

Now turn the receiver on its side and locate the op rod track... lay down a thin layer of grease where the op rod tab slides around....

See them wiggly Z patterns???
Now look closer at the bolt lug bearing zone(s) on the receiver, in this case, I left a dab of grease where the bolt lugs will lock:

So grab your op rod, locate the op rod HUMP where the roller interfaces and operates. We need a pile of grease there..... LOTS...BIG dab, you can use your fingers if you need to.... See the large drops of grease??

Other places you don't mind greasing:
* Threads of the gas cylinder plug
* Castle nut thread
* Flash suppressor set screw thread
These areas never hurt to have a little dab of grease when you are reassembling this rig at home.
There you go... One cannot always afford the highest end M14/M305/M1A/ M1 Garand, but one can certainly take good care of it and ensure optimal operating conditions!
Pay it forward and teach this stuff to the newbs!
Barney
So what kind of grease? Well I'm not gonna start a bun fight
but honestly Mr. Jean Cantius Garand never specified which brand of high tech composition grease back in 1936, but the USGI Manual did mention Molybdenum DiSulfide in there and let's use that as a starting point before our collective dicks fall off. In reality, if you don't grease your M1A / M14 / M305/ Garand, your #### WILL fall off... My applicators.... use what you can even Qtips, popsicle sticks, your fingers, expired toothbrushes ... these syringes sure make life easy though....

My particular favorite brand of grease only because it's white and easy to squeeze into the 12 mL 'Curved Tip' syringes from a Veterinarian Supply business/orthodontist/dentist/ East Vancouver dumpster, Toronto Beaches area on Lake Ontario Shoreline, Calgary needle exchange site, yada yada yada

[

Here's a stealthy spot to smooth up your safety when it is engaged... Let the hammer forward. Locate that interior curve where the safety hooks the hammer (when rifle is cocked of course). A dab of grease on the hook...

Now the hammer hooks where they engage the hammer sear... Grease it and work the hammer (#### and click that hammer) and squeeze the trigger. Work that grease into the engaging surfaces.

This one is an easy one... examine the face of your hammer for the wear marks where bolt rides rear ward on the hammer face.... Then locate the hammer NOSE , you will spot it right away. Grease that FACE and NOSE of the hammer. Just look at my picture:

Can you see the syringe tip pointing at the "nose" of the hammer?

Now have a look at the piston/sliding/cylindrical portion of the Operating rod or the Op rod.... See where my CGN handle is written? Grease that portion as it rides through the op rod guide (figure 8 shaped thingy under the barrel).

Here's a picture of the op rod guide, AND the reminder to spread that grease 180* degrees around the op rod piston portion:

Now turn the receiver on its side and locate the op rod track... lay down a thin layer of grease where the op rod tab slides around....

See them wiggly Z patterns???
Now look closer at the bolt lug bearing zone(s) on the receiver, in this case, I left a dab of grease where the bolt lugs will lock:

So grab your op rod, locate the op rod HUMP where the roller interfaces and operates. We need a pile of grease there..... LOTS...BIG dab, you can use your fingers if you need to.... See the large drops of grease??

Other places you don't mind greasing:
* Threads of the gas cylinder plug
* Castle nut thread
* Flash suppressor set screw thread
These areas never hurt to have a little dab of grease when you are reassembling this rig at home.
There you go... One cannot always afford the highest end M14/M305/M1A/ M1 Garand, but one can certainly take good care of it and ensure optimal operating conditions!

Pay it forward and teach this stuff to the newbs!

Barney
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