How to inspect a used rifle for corrosion

brandon6976

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Hello guys. I have a CZ 600 in 7.62x39 which I love. I was thinking of getting a semi auto.

One thing is I was thinking about buying it used, however I'm not sure what to look for. Mostly my concern is that I'm aware that most people that shoot 7.62x39 are using surplus ammo, a lot of it being corrosive. I do fully appreciate that corrosive ammo isn't the end of the world to the rifle so long as it's cleaned shortly after the range visit properly.

My question is if I'm looking at buy a rifle, what would I look for to have confidence that it's been properly cleaned after corrosive ammo? Is it just looking down the bore and looking for rust in the barrel/chamber?
 
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If the seller will let you look at the gas tube/piston that will tell you everything you need to know
 
DiMP - I'd want to see the bore and the Sear to make sure the Sear wasn't butchered. It only takes a minute to open after you drop the T-group. My Gas piston is kept clean but the Tube has prob Thousands of rounds and my last 2 have NOT been able to hold the piston thru suction like fellows on SKSboards 'say' is desirable. None the less, mine runs fine and still throws cases about 15-feet after I drilled a couple 'extra' exhaust holes in the tube. I also did the Ejection Port mod making the cases go 'mostly' sideways, no more than a couple feet forward.
HuskyDude et al who might be interested, I just got your message and put that (one of them) video on YT on my (tiny) channel. I might put a few on there sometime, but my monologue commentary often is not "children friendly' so not in a hurry. Enjoy
https://youtu.be/3YxbTdcxKxk
PS - For any interested, on there also I have a 'short' of me loading Savage Rotary mag 'One-handed' as a response to many posts I've seen saying they're 'so difficult'. No harder than a 10/22 mag, once you learn how . . . just like walking and chewing gum. Some folks just can't handle it.
AND my Ruger Ranch in 7.62 x 39 when it was Brand-new, before any shots fired.
 
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Thanks guys, so basically a bore cam would be ideal. If I echo back what I'm looking for it's that pitting and such would be the impact of the corrosive rounds if it wasn't dealt with.
 
PS - I added the first Comment on YT, describing my cleaning process in more detail.

The pitting on the vid is from 'Years of abuse' at someone else's hands. I'm very dedicated to cleaning after EACH use. And the rifle still shoots about 3-4" groups at 50 using irons. I'm 74 and my 'iron vision' might be a bit off, but it's enough to do the job.
 
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Assume the thing sort of worked when it left the factory - so that includes bore condition, the condition of various parts inside, the bedding, and so on. Some years later, you are trying to evaluate if that thing is still serviceable. If it started as an SKS, is not going to end up today like an H&H or a Rigby. What I found here, is I can not consistently say how well a particular barrel will shoot, based only on what I see in a bore scope - is several here with scratches and gouging on some rifling, etc. that shoot just fine, for my needs. I am not particularly pleased to see pits or sections of rifling that were rusted and now missing - but, typically even those guns will go "bang", and for some people, that is good enough.

I probably do not use it correctly, but the only "real" use that I have for a bore scope here, is when I am cleaning a barrel. I can see what it looks like before I start. Then, I follow the various "cleaner" instructions - then I can re-look into that bore. At that point, I do not care what the sales person said about how good that product is - I can see for myself whether it cleaned out crap or if it did not.

For many rifles, there is a User Manual or there are factory specs that inform an armourer what to inspect - what is still "acceptable" and what should be "junked" - is all about that designer's initial intent for that rifle. You might have a different outlook on what is okay or not - for your "one" rifle - think of an armourer facing several dozen in a pile - all of them need to "work" - acceptably - in a fairly short time - hence the various military armourers tend to have an inspection or gauging sequence that they follow to get the thing into "spec" - to be "good enough for government work" - that might not be adequate enough for your purposes.

Is a mistake I think to read up on various bench-rest and target shooter accomplishments, and then think you will get similar with an inexpensive ex-military gun - is not what they use, and is not what your thing was made for - when it was new. After some use, is not really likely that it got "better" than new.

Is some things besides bore condition that matter, I think - the receiver bedding, the condition of the muzzle's crown, etc. can all influence how well or how poorly the rifle shoots a group. For some people, a "group" is to aim at one thing and take one shot - if target gets hit, then is deemed "good enough". That, typically, is confusing "well-sighted-in", with "precision". A neighbour regales me about how accurate his Ruger 22-250 is - is all based on a single shot that he once took at a coyote on the go in a field - he rolled the thing. From his point of view, that makes that thing a VERY accurate rifle.
 
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OP, when it comes to the particular rifle you mentioned in your query post, there is only one thing you need to look at closely when purchasing the rifle, that won't be immediately visible on the outside of the rifle. BORE PITTING and maybe throat erosion.

The CZ600 is an extremely well-made and relatively high-end rifle in its class.

If it's all beat to hell, don't buy it, unless you are handy at refinishing firearms, which from your post doesn't appear to be the case.

The CZ600 is intended for precise shooting, rather than just plinking and IMHO shouldn't be used with SURPLUS CORROSIVE AMMO EVER, unless you know how to properly clean and maintain the rifle after using it.

If you want to make it perform to its full potential, hand load ammunition. This type of rifle shines when it is fed ammunition tailored to its preference. Then of course you need a scope capable of delivering parallax-free views at the ranges you intend to shoot.

After you've done the easily visible inspection of the exterior, with a bore light, look through the bore to see if it's very bright and shiny, without any visible pits or "frosting" which can range from very slight to deep.

When frosting is present, the bore will not be as shiny and smooth.

If you can use a bore scope, it's even better, but beware a bore scope often makes things look much worse than they really are. So use some discretion. I've seen folks go over the deep end about "blemishes" that are only visible because of intense light and are more likely shadows than anything real.

With a bore scope, bits of lint and dust can look like blemishes or pits.

When a bore is pitted or frosty, it's very visible and you can't mistake it for anything else.

If a bore on such a rifle has "rust" it is often just a spot, that will clean off easily and won't have an effect on accuracy and will not leave any visible traces behind, after cleaning.

If the seller will allow the use of a cleaning rod, with a patch to be pushed through the bore, that allows you to make sure most loose bits are no longer present.

Bring your cleaning rod and patches, vendors don't usually have them along.

The last CZ600 I shot, was great right out of the box, however, a skim coat of glass bedding improved its performance.

You need to be familiar with what this rifle should be capable of before you purchase it and your personal capabilities to make it perform.

You should have a knowledgeable mentor to help you with it. This rifles performance is a step or two above what can be expected from off the shelf rifles, even when made by the same company.
 
I read in Post #1 that OP already has a CZ600 in 7.62x39, but wants another one in same cartridge, but a semi-auto - I might be way out, but I did not think there were any other semi-auto 7.62x39 except the SKS, which so far as I know, was designed for a military purpose. I could have been very mistaken on that.
 
I read in Post #1 that OP already has a CZ600 in 7.62x39, but wants another one in same cartridge, but a semi-auto - I might be way out, but I did not think there were any other semi-auto 7.62x39 except the SKS, which so far as I know, was designed for a military purpose. I could have been very mistaken on that.

Egyptian Rashid, which is a scaled down Agb42, Mini Thirty (no longer available to Canadians), AR platforms also no longer available to Canadians, same goes for the semi auto only AK platforms and maybe a few others.

My bad on the wanting a semi.
 
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A Rashid in 39 would be a very nice addition to the collection...

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Just a bit out of my price range right now.

Here's one from 2/1/2 yrs ago.. ouch!

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I've owned and sold a couple of them. The SKS is superior IMHO.

They aren't bad at all, just not as handy.

They were much cheaper when I had them and it was actually tough to sell them.
 
He's GOT A CZ600, he's looking at a semi in that caliber. That's why folks have been talking about SKSs. As for pitted bore and accuracy, potashminer is right that it's not very relevant. More important for accuracy is 1) Muzzle condition - worn or damaged is BAD. 2) Sight alignment - the front sight can be moved with a sight-tool, both vertically and horizontally. 3) condition of the chamber and Leade area - if 'first riling' is worn or severely pitted accuracy may be affected 4) the last few inches of rifling - needs to be present and 'fair' condition. ie - mine is quite worn and pitted (see vid link above) but still has 'SKS accuracy' = ca 3-4" @ 100-yds with irons. I had one a couple years ago with a 3-9x40 scope and it was slightly more accurate, but with SKS "it is what it is" and that's NOT a target rifle.
 
I think he is asking how to inspect his new purchase, not the CZ600. Here is what I do, Acts and Prove first, remove magazine, remove bolt assembly, look through the bore, then clean and lube, reassembly, check function. Takes 5 minutes.
 
For an SKS it's a bit more complex, but not much. You can't really 'look thru the bore' very easily, but a borescope is only about $100 or less for a Teslong on Amazon. If he's bought a CZ600, and is looking at "a semi" it's likely a C-note wouldn't hurt much and be handy for ongoing inspections of both rifles. And his alternatives still would be some sort of SKS or derivative in most cases.
 
For an SKS it's a bit more complex, but not much. You can't really 'look thru the bore' very easily, but a borescope is only about $100 or less for a Teslong on Amazon. If he's bought a CZ600, and is looking at "a semi" it's likely a C-note wouldn't hurt much and be handy for ongoing inspections of both rifles. And his alternatives still would be some sort of SKS or derivative in most cases.

Why can't you look through the bore easily? Ensure the gun is clear, lock the bolt back, stick light in action side and look down through the muzzle?
 
Suther, that's right - i was thinking of 'seeing' the chamber, too.
As for alternative semis, there's also the Type 81, and the WK181s, M&Ms, and Bren2. I wasn't thinking 'higher dollar' rifles.
 
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