How to know if my 1944 m1911 barrel is burned-out ?

olivierlamothe

olivierlamothe

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
48   0   0
Location
Trois-Rivières,Qc
I think the title say evrey think lol.

When i look in my barrel the grouve are verry not deep the barrel is almost flat. I have the empression that the lines are just drown in lol

Please send me your email this way a could send you a picture !

Thanks a lot !
 
The best way to get some numbers to go by is to slug the bore.

It's easily done by beating a soft lead round ball such as used for black powder shooting that is oversize into the muzzle with a block of wood. For .45acp I'd suggest a soft round ball of about .500. The barrel will cause the extra lead to be cut off and the rest forms the bore shaped slug which you then push through and out from the chamber. The slug will have the grooves and lands formed on it. Now you can use a caliper to measure the difference between the diameters across the lands and the grooves. Typically you want to see about .008 to .012 inch difference between the two sizes.

Now a .010 inch difference is not very much. It's only .005 inch difference between two grooves and the land between it. To give you an idea of how little this is a piece of printer paper is about .003 to .004 thick. So the difference isn't going to be seen and measured very well by eye. Pretty well if you can see anything that sort of looks like a spiral pattern then it's good.
 
BCRider said:
The best way to get some numbers to go by is to slug the bore.

It's easily done by beating a soft lead round ball such as used for black powder shooting that is oversize into the muzzle with a block of wood. For .45acp I'd suggest a soft round ball of about .500. The barrel will cause the extra lead to be cut off and the rest forms the bore shaped slug which you then push through and out from the chamber. The slug will have the grooves and lands formed on it. Now you can use a caliper to measure the difference between the diameters across the lands and the grooves. Typically you want to see about .008 to .012 inch difference between the two sizes.

Now a .010 inch difference is not very much. It's only .005 inch difference between two grooves and the land between it. To give you an idea of how little this is a piece of printer paper is about .003 to .004 thick. So the difference isn't going to be seen and measured very well by eye. Pretty well if you can see anything that sort of looks like a spiral pattern then it's good.
Click to expand...


Ok thanks for the tip ! I'll try to do it !
 
Old GI guns can shoot ok to piss poor....let a few other shooters give it a go before you buy any parts. The sights and looseness of parts can make them tough to shoot well....
 
A USGI 1911A1 .45ACP pistol was never meant to be a "target" pistol.

It's original design was for up close & personal.

How does your pistol group at 10 yards?

If you can dump a 7 round mag full of 230 gr ball into the boiler room of a man size target from 10 yards then it's doing what it was meant to do.

:canadaFlag:
-------------
NAA.
 
Shoot it with the ammo you want to use and see how it groups while shooting off a rest. Most guns/barrels can shoot WAY better than the shooters can shoot them. Also depends on what kind of "accuracy" you need or want - are you a competition shooter firing 60,000 rounds a year or a plinker shooting 100 rounds of factory ammo? Reliability of a handgun is by far a higher priority than long range (50 yds) accuracy. Over 50 yards - use a rifle. Military handguns like the 1911 were designed for close in, last resort shootings that would go BANG under desperate conditions. FWIW IMO.
 
Last edited:
at 25 m and a usgi 44 barrel, i'd be surprised if it grouped better then 12-16" Some of the rifling was quite shallow to boot, ment for jacketed bullets. And the barrel steel was quite soft by todays standards. If you want a target gun, you'd be better off with a different 1911. Assuming that the one you have is original, it's probably worth more as a collector item then as a shooter
 
Hitzy said:
Old GI guns can shoot ok to piss poor....let a few other shooters give it a go before you buy any parts. The sights and looseness of parts can make them tough to shoot well....
Click to expand...

Ok ! I understand they where made to tough but not to shoot extremly accurate... My m1911 is old i don't know if the barrel was changed. Do you know How many rounds the gun have to shoot befor the barrel burn out ?

Thanks
 
olivierlamothe said:
Ok ! I understand they where made to tough but not to shoot extremly accurate... My m1911 is old i don't know if the barrel was changed. Do you know How many rounds the gun have to shoot befor the barrel burn out ?

Thanks
Click to expand...
50,000 or more.....at least. Maybe closer to 75000.
 
I replaced the barrel in my old 1911 when the cases started to bulge, a picture of one of the cases is shown below,the top half was about .005 inches wider than the bottom.
The new barrel has shallow rifling the same as any 1911 that I have looked at, a picture of the old barrel also below:

45ACPbulge001jpg.jpg

45Barrel004jpg.jpg
 
Skinny 1950 said:
I replaced the barrel in my old 1911 when the cases started to bulge, a picture of one of the cases is shown below,the top half was about .005 inches wider than the bottom.
The new barrel has shallow rifling the same as any 1911 that I have looked at, a picture of the old barrel also below:

45ACPbulge001jpg.jpg

45Barrel004jpg.jpg
Click to expand...

Thanks images helps a lot !

My barrel is flater than yours the grooves are verry not deep and also my gun do almost the same marks on the casings... I guest it's time for a barrel change !
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom