How to make 11x17.8mmR revolver ammunition?
- Thread starter MD
- Start date
Have a look at a .45 Colt. It'd need a lathe though. Assuming Wikipedia is even close to the right dimensions. The 11mm Ordnance is a large bore pop gun from what assorted sites say.
stevespages.com/jpg/cd45colt.jpg
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/11mm_French_Ordnance
stevespages.com/jpg/cd45colt.jpg
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/11mm_French_Ordnance
- Location
- Markham Ontario
According to The Handloader's Manual of Cartridge Conversions by John J Donnelley
Make from 44 Magnum (or Special) Cut case to length .71" Chamfer. Turn rim to .491" dia. Use .429' dia. lead bullets and seat with .44 Special die
Load suggested is 180 gr lead bullet 3.0 gr Bullseye for a mv. of 675 fps Loaded length 1.18"
Make from 44 Magnum (or Special) Cut case to length .71" Chamfer. Turn rim to .491" dia. Use .429' dia. lead bullets and seat with .44 Special die
Load suggested is 180 gr lead bullet 3.0 gr Bullseye for a mv. of 675 fps Loaded length 1.18"
Assuming you want to make up a hundred or so and you can find a lathe I'd go with the following fixture as a suggestion.
In the lathe make up a spud chuck that the cases can slip onto with a close fit. Assuming that the inside tapers a little make it so it locks snugly just as it seats so friction holds the casing for the cutting operations. From there use a bed stop so it brings a parting tool to the right position for parting off to the correct length. Then withdraw the parting tool to a set point for trimming the rim. Break the edges of the rim with a small fine cut file.
Now the trick part... .
The spud should have a hole through it so you can use a 3/16 to 1/4 ejector rod. The rod feeds back and out the outboard side of the head stock and is held centered with tightly waded newspaper.
To use the spud chuck push the casing in place using a piece of wood so it seats and taper locks to the right spot. After the cuts and filing just tap the ejector rod with a hammer or other tool to spit the cut case off the spud. Push the next one on and do the cuts.
This way you don't need to shut off the lathe and let it spin down for each casing. The time you save by making this up front will easily be paid back in the time you save making a hundred or more. And you've got the tool for the next time if there is one.
In the lathe make up a spud chuck that the cases can slip onto with a close fit. Assuming that the inside tapers a little make it so it locks snugly just as it seats so friction holds the casing for the cutting operations. From there use a bed stop so it brings a parting tool to the right position for parting off to the correct length. Then withdraw the parting tool to a set point for trimming the rim. Break the edges of the rim with a small fine cut file.
Now the trick part... .
The spud should have a hole through it so you can use a 3/16 to 1/4 ejector rod. The rod feeds back and out the outboard side of the head stock and is held centered with tightly waded newspaper. To use the spud chuck push the casing in place using a piece of wood so it seats and taper locks to the right spot. After the cuts and filing just tap the ejector rod with a hammer or other tool to spit the cut case off the spud. Push the next one on and do the cuts.
This way you don't need to shut off the lathe and let it spin down for each casing. The time you save by making this up front will easily be paid back in the time you save making a hundred or more. And you've got the tool for the next time if there is one.
I cut and thinned the rims on 50 rds of Schofield Hornaday brass for a 455 Webley. You could probably do it in a 3 session afternoon. Couple hours if it's the same task basically.
Drill press, file, digital caliper and a tubing cutter.
A lathe isn't something that I can access easily and I needed fodder. It can be done without a lathe if it's the same sort of deal.
Drill press, file, digital caliper and a tubing cutter.
A lathe isn't something that I can access easily and I needed fodder. It can be done without a lathe if it's the same sort of deal.
