How to make sense of shotgun patterns and choke tubes

True North Arms Corp

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Howdy folks,

Lets take a closer look at something that’s often misunderstood in the shotgun world: chokes — and more specifically, how to actually know what choke you’re running.

A lot of shooters rely on visual cues or notch markings on choke tubes (one notch, three notches, etc.) to determine whether a choke is full, modified, improved cylinder, and so on. The assumption is simple: fewer notches means tighter choke. But that assumption doesn’t always hold up.

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Why markings can be misleading:​

Shotgun chokes are often marked according to a manufacturer’s standard, but those markings don’t always reflect the true constriction. Two chokes that look different — or even measure differently with basic tools — can perform very similarly once properly measured.

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Using common tools like calipers can introduce serious measurement errors. The contact points on calipers are often too wide to sit properly inside a choke or bore, which can lead to readings that make a choke appear far tighter (or looser) than it really is.

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Measuring the bore properly:

To get accurate results, Stanley uses a specialized bore-measuring tool with ball bearings and a dial indicator. This type of tool makes very small contact points inside the bore, allowing for a much more reliable reading.

By measuring:

  • the actual bore diameter of the shotgun
  • and then the true inside diameter of the choke
you can calculate real constriction in thousandths of an inch.

In the video, a choke that appeared to be nearly a full choke when measured with calipers turned out to have only about 0.004" of constriction — meaning it would realistically perform more like an improved cylinder.

On the flip side, another choke marked as “full” measured with roughly 0.043" of constriction, which puts it well into extra-full or turkey choke territory, despite what the marking suggested.

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Why performance matters more than labels:​

The takeaway here is simple:
Choke markings are a reference, not a guarantee.

Actual shotgun performance depends on many variables, including:

  • Bore diameter
  • Barrel length and finish
  • Choke geometry and alignment
  • Ammunition type and wad design
  • Environmental factors like temperature
This is why Stanley strongly recommends patterning your shotgun. Shooting multiple patterns with different shells and chokes on a pattern board is the only reliable way to see how your setup truly performs.

Even shells that seem nearly identical on paper — from different manufacturers — can produce noticeably different patterns in the same shotgun.

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Final thoughts​

If you want consistent results, don’t rely solely on notch markings or assumptions. Measure when possible, take notes, and most importantly, test your setup on a pattern board. Every shotgun is a little different, and finding what your gun likes is part of the process.

If you enjoy this kind of practical, measurement-based content, let us know in the comments of the Youtube video linked above.

Thanks for reading, and as always,
True North Arms

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mostly accurate info the one variable not mentioned is shot string
in real time all your shot does not get to a moving target at the same time like it does on a pattering board
 
One thing I'd add is for older guns with fixed chokes. Many will shoot far tighter than one might expect because they were made in the days of fiber wads. Plastic shot cups will give tighter patterns.

I was shooting a Winchester 21 with a WS-2 choke at trap, and it was destroying clays at the 16 yard line right out at max range. Likewise my 1950's Auto 5 with full choke just pulverizes clays.

Likewise I have a friend who loads fiber wads in his old SxS just to open up the pattern for skeet
 
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