How to Paint an 870

slick39

slick39

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I have decided the black on synthetic look is boring and want to paint my remington 870 express magnum an olive drab colour or some sort of green, first of all i was wondering how one would go about taking all the wood parts off such as the pumping handle and I have figured out how to get the stock off, once I have the wood/synthetic parts off what parts should i cover with tape to protect from the paint?

Also what kind of paint is the best to use, I have heard people talk about krylon spray paint but is there any special technique to a good paint job? Any suggestions on colours/shades to use?

Just for the fun of it, if any of you guys have pictures of paintjobs you have done if you would like to post pictures that would be awesome thanks for the help guys! :)

Josh:dancingbanana:
 
What every you use..the gun has to be oil and grease free or your paint won't stick.
The front stock is held on by a threaded collar that unscrews from the action bar tube.
You have to remove the magazine cap and barrel to get it off.
 
I think WalMart has a kit with stencils of leaves and the matte camo paint may be suitable. Know a buddy who did his aluminum boat with it looks good.
 
Yes there is technique.

Disassemble everything. You'll be painting the parts individually.

Sand everything down. Right to the metal with 120-grit (180 is ok too) but no bigger than 120. Better yet, sandblast it. Sand the plastic stock, too but not as vigorously.

Put on clean rubber/latex gloves or handle everything with clean paper towel from this point on.

Then degrease and de-oil it with rubbing alcohol or something similar.

Change your gloves, and wear them throughout the rest of the process. If you touch your face or skin, or anything that might possibly have oil or dirt, change your gloves again.

Dry it, remove any and all dust.

Suspend the parts using string (I used unbent coat hangers)

Then prime it with the krylon primer. I know the cans say you don't need to, but do it anyways.

One or maybe two Light LIGHT coats of primer everywhere.

Let dry for whatever amount of time it's supposed to. DON'T touch it.

DON'T TOUCH IT!

OK now you can paint with your colours in light coats

I'm talking LIGHT coats. I can't stress the lightness of these coats.

Once it's even and covered, let it dry for 48 hours.

DON'T TOUCH IT.

using NEW rubber gloves or toilet paper, pick up the parts and move them into a secluded area where they can dry untouched and uninhibited for 1 month.

For some reason it takes weeks (mine took a month) to fully cure.

If you don't do this properly, you'll hate your gun, and it will look terrible as the paint will peel/chip/scratch off very easily.


Once it's fully cured, you can do a clear coat if you want (for additional protection) and then let that set, dry, and cure for a week.

Then reassemble!
 
thank you very much for the very detailed response but one thing I would like to add is I dont plan on doing anything to the wood/synthetic parts, and i only want one solid green or baige colour so even though im not doing the wood/synthetic i still need to sand it right down to the metal so all the matte black that is on there now is gone? and then once I de-oil it and once that is done I have to prime it twice, and then after that is dry i go at it with my colour of choice?:) and always wear clean gloves and let it sit for a loooong time?:) thanks again

Josh
 
Basically, yep.

  1. Disassemble.
  2. Sand (or sandblast) the metal (receiver, barrel, mag tube & cap, control arms, etc) right down to the metal with ~180 grit.
  3. Put on gloves
  4. Degrease / de-oil with alcohol or something
  5. change gloves
  6. make sure it's oil free and dust free
  7. suspend it with a rigid wire (or string)
  8. dont touch it from this point forward
  9. prime lightly
  10. allow primer to dry
  11. paint lightly
  12. allow 48 hours for paint to dry, set, and semi-cure.
  13. move the parts to a secluded spot to cure for a month or so
  14. clear-cote if desired
  15. reassemble

:)
 
You asked for pics:

n509315198_1808168_1528.jpg


n509315198_1808170_2657.jpg


I did pretty much everything that was listed above except for the one month cure time. I didn't know it took that long. :confused: Anyway, I re-assembled the gun two days after painting and have not noticed any scratching or anything. I haven't used it yet and now won't for at least 2 more weeks. (I painted it two weeks ago)

So how does one tell when the paint has fully cured? Is there an easy way to tell?

Matthew
 
Matthew,

When you push on it with your finger nail and it doesn't leave an indentation. It should be as hard as plastic...

Shouldn't feel rubbery in the slightest...

The Krylon cans say 24 hours to dry, and "fully chip-resistant after 7 days" but it's more like 1 month to be absolutely certain.
 
When I did mine, I painted the stocks as well. Turned out awesome, I think.

I used olive drab for the stocks, and tan for the action/barrel/mag tube.

1214398263.jpg

1214361619.jpg

1214417861.jpg


Excuse the crappy pics: cell phone is all I had at the time.
 
###XX said:
When I did mine, I painted the stocks as well. Turned out awesome, I think.

I used olive drab for the stocks, and tan for the action/barrel/mag tube.


Excuse the crappy pics: cell phone is all I had at the time.
Click to expand...

At least you kept your feet out of them! :D
It looks great.
 
###XX said:
Matthew,

When you push on it with your finger nail and it doesn't leave an indentation. It should be as hard as plastic...

Shouldn't feel rubbery in the slightest...

The Krylon cans say 24 hours to dry, and "fully chip-resistant after 7 days" but it's more like 1 month to be absolutely certain.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the "cure time" info and wow! :D That is a nice looking gun!

Matthew
 
The only thing I can add is that Krylon makes matte clear. So you may want to apply one of to layers of it over your paint job, to avoid scratching the paint with the branches/other stuff.

Personally, my paint job isn't perfect and paint DOES chips off at some places, but I just spray a little more Krylon now and then to keep it good looking. It sees a lot of rain, wood, dust and it's being used a lot, so I wouldn't be able to keep a perfect paint job anyway.
S4200180.jpg
 
jdman I did it to my 870 because it came with a ####ty black oxide finish... the paint's holding up quite nicely and is easy to touch up.

The key lies in doing it properly, though.
 
slick39 said:
I have decided the black on synthetic look is boring and want to paint my remington 870 express magnum an olive drab colour or some sort of green, first of all i was wondering how one would go about taking all the wood parts off such as the pumping handle and I have figured out how to get the stock off, once I have the wood/synthetic parts off what parts should i cover with tape to protect from the paint?

Also what kind of paint is the best to use, I have heard people talk about krylon spray paint but is there any special technique to a good paint job? Any suggestions on colours/shades to use?

Just for the fun of it, if any of you guys have pictures of paintjobs you have done if you would like to post pictures that would be awesome thanks for the help guys! :)

Josh:dancingbanana:
Click to expand...

I don't understand why everyone has the "hots" for krylon paint.
Duracoat, gunkote, and other epoxy finishes designed for firearms can be had for nearly the same price as your hardware variety finishes. While they do require spray equipment (I used my son's model paint gun and compressor) the finish and "toughness" is superior.

I've tried the krylon bit and ended up having to continuously "touch-up" my paint job. Switched over to duracoat and I haven't had the problem since.

With one Krylon attempt the "oils" in the synthetic stock kept leaching out and softening the paint. When someone would grab the rifle and put it down there would be swaths of paint that had peeled off the stock and stuck to the hand. Applying a clear coat resulted in larger swaths coming off at one time. Repeated cleaning prior to applying the paint did not help things as leaching continued to occur. Ended up stripping the paint off it.

Used to paint aircraft parts for a living so I consider myself an above average painter.

Duracoat can be purchased in Canada from several suppliers.
http://www.lauerweaponry.com/

L
 
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