How to pick a good mosin nagant 91/30?

I bought my first Mosin Nagant sight unseen from Wolverine Supplies in Virden, Manitoba. Although she wasn’t the prettiest... she works great. Came with a bayonet and a cleaning kit.

It is a ’34 Tula with a hex receiver. The bold cycles smoothly, the trigger is firm, the bore is very nice and she’s accurate. The deer meat in my freezer can attest to that.

My second Mosin comes from Canadian Tire in Winnipeg, Manitoba. The clerk was pleasant and accommodating and let me into the “cage” so I could pick out my rifle.

I looked at a few and picked a ’40 Izhevsk with a round receiver. I checked the following: the bore (very good), the bolt (cycles smoothly but somehow tight when removing and replacing), the stock (very nice), the trigger (tight). Came with a bayonet and a cleaning kit.

All the numbers match on both rifles but I know this is because they went through the arsenal refurbishing process where parts were scrubbed and “force matched”. I really don’t care as I have no intentions of selling either rifle.

Well, time for you to go an look for your "first" !!!

Is glorious people's rifle, blessed by the hand of uncle Joe Stalin to protect the hardworking people of glorious motherland!

AK: Can hit a basketball at 100 yards.
AR: Can hit a golf ball at 200 yards.
Mosin Nagant: Point it at the sky, pull the trigger, and someone in Berlin dies.
 
I do a reverse bullet check with a Hornady .312 SP and .308 FMJ. You can compare distance to the cannelure. Just four out of a couple dozen I have inspected passed the test.

Has to be pre-war. I also make sure there is little to no bolt handle movement when you dry fire. Metal and wood condition next.
 
Another bolt test I like to do is to half cycle the bolt so its locked slanted upwards, then dry fire and make sure the bolt handle drops completely down in the closed (in battery) position. If it stops short or gets hung up, skip it.
This I find helps with identifying a smooth cycling bolt/action.
 
Last edited:
Another bolt test I like to do is to half cycle the bolt so its locked slanted upwards, then dry fire and make sure the bolt handle drops completely down in the closed (in battery) position. If it stops short or get hung up, skip it.
This I find helps with identifying a smooth cycling bolt/action.

I can second this. I do this test as well. To take it further, have the rifle standing vertically, with the muzzle toward the ceiling. Then follow the decock procedure (put the bolt in the first stage and pull the trigger). The bolt should snap down with an audible click. If it does while overcoming gravity there is a good fit with all the bolt parts, receiver and sear.

But I thought everyone says they are GREAT!!!(?) :rolleyes:

What is the origin of all of those wonderful review posts? They seem a little odd.

Funny thing. That's exactly what happened to me as well.

Sorry to hear that. I had always read good things but I didn't ask anyone for their first hand experience. The e-mail I received from support did set off red flags but I ignored them.
 
Last edited:
I think "Uncle Joe" killed 20+ million of his own hardworking people with these very rifles. Not someone to glorify, IMHO.
Is glorious people's rifle, blessed by the hand of uncle Joe Stalin to protect the hardworking people of glorious motherland!

AK: Can hit a basketball at 100 yards.
AR: Can hit a golf ball at 200 yards.
Mosin Nagant: Point it at the sky, pull the trigger, and someone in Berlin dies.
 
Is glorious people's rifle, blessed by the hand of uncle Joe Stalin to protect the hardworking people of glorious motherland!

AK: Can hit a basketball at 100 yards.
AR: Can hit a golf ball at 200 yards.
Mosin Nagant: Point it at the sky, pull the trigger, and someone in Berlin dies.

I rather enjoyed this post. Lol!
 
Back
Top Bottom