How to pull a round ball, after its center is pulled out...

My first flintlock was a Traditions Kentucky Rifle, I think I paid 550cad new for it back in the 2010s..(fully assembled! not even as the cheaper kit). Fit and finish was excellent on it, accuracy was excellent. The lock arguably wasnt even that bad considering its tiny size. Great to pull off the wall, dust off, load up and go hunting with. But when firing consecutive shots, thats when serious design flaws really started to show.

TONS of flashes in the pan, TONS of slow ignitions. Very stiff to load. Most beginners like myself pass it off as being *part of the Flinchlock experience*. Its only until one witnesses a normal flintlock firing that they then realize somethings terribly wrong with the Traditions models.

And that something is the breech geometry. Extremely prone to fowling, very hard to clean in the field. Honestly, flat out F'ing dangerous when you fully consider it and the far reaching implications of totally frustrated and desperate Black Powder beginners having to fiddle around out in the field with pumping 3f or 4f into fowled touchole liners, shouldering multiple hangfires or pulling balls. Maybe they even give up, pull the flint and drive home with a stoked barrel that they'll later address in the confinements of a suburban garage or basement lol.

Every Flintlock newcomer should do themselves a favor and skip the Traditions offering, buy a used Lyman, Pedersoli or basically any new or used American made kit gun from a reputable name. Its like going from PowerFist to Huskavarna.
 
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I had a good flintlock from them.
It had overall good ignition and accuracy ect...

The thing however is that the lock has the frizzen screw, that threads from the back, so where the head is is in a counterbore and of course, that's where crap accumulates from firings...
It has been seized in there and I haven't been able to get it out... the head is stripped, and basically now.. I just need a gunsmith to carefully drill it out so I can make a pin to fit, from the back again instead of a screw.
Also, the main part to want of removing the screw, is that the flint has worn through the case hardening of the face of the frizzen, and I need to re shape and reharden it again.

other than that... my experience has been great.
 
I had a good flintlock from them.
It had overall good ignition and accuracy ect...

The thing however is that the lock has the frizzen screw, that threads from the back, so where the head is is in a counterbore and of course, that's where crap accumulates from firings...
It has been seized in there and I haven't been able to get it out... the head is stripped, and basically now.. I just need a gunsmith to carefully drill it out so I can make a pin to fit, from the back again instead of a screw.
Also, the main part to want of removing the screw, is that the flint has worn through the case hardening of the face of the frizzen, and I need to re shape and reharden it again.

other than that... my experience has been great.
Having the frizzen pin screw in from the back is common. You don’t need a “ gunsmith” to remove it ( in fact I would advise against it). Any good machine shop can mill that out in a few minutes and it will be perfect. While any gunsmith worth his salt will be able to do it but a machinist dies this sort of thing every day not once every 10 years AND good machine shops can be found pretty much anywhere. BTW, if the pin boss is blind, a pin won’t work as you won’t be able to remove it easily. Regardless, I would use a screw. Install it with copper coat or another anti-seize and you should be removing the lock every time you clean the gun so you can clean the inside as well as removing the frizzen pin to clean and lube.
 
Fare enough about the smith vs the machinist.... unforunatly, Ive found alot of shops dont often want to deal with strangers "gun" related stuff and rather not, citing liability or crap like that...

But in this case the pin would be passed through the back to the front of the lock to the front bridle.
Most ive seen have a brideled lock around the frizzen and screw outside to in... the head is easier to clean and less prone to fouling., that one there is the only one where it has been like this and after a few times the screw got messed up... thats with thorough proper maintenance.
 
Fare enough about the smith vs the machinist.... unforunatly, Ive found alot of shops dont often want to deal with strangers "gun" related stuff and rather not, citing liability or crap like that...

But in this case the pin would be passed through the back to the front of the lock to the front bridle.
Most ive seen have a brideled lock around the frizzen and screw outside to in... the head is easier to clean and less prone to fouling., that one there is the only one where it has been like this and after a few times the screw got messed up... thats with thorough proper maintenance.
How does a screw get “messed up” through “ thorough proper maintenance”. A big part of “proper maintenance” is useing proper hollow ground turn screws
 
It should also be pointed out that there should not be any "crap" accumulating in lthe lock mortise if the lock to barrel fit as it should be. Routine maintenance should NOT require stripping the lock down or removal of the frizzen and, as Ltk has said, properly fitted screwdrivers should always be used.
 
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