How to pull a round ball, after its center is pulled out...

My first flintlock was a Traditions Kentucky Rifle, I think I paid 550cad new for it back in the 2010s..(fully assembled! not even as the cheaper kit). Fit and finish was excellent on it, accuracy was excellent. The lock arguably wasnt even that bad considering its tiny size. Great to pull off the wall, dust off, load up and go hunting with. But when firing consecutive shots, thats when serious design flaws really started to show.

TONS of flashes in the pan, TONS of slow ignitions. Very stiff to load. Most beginners like myself pass it off as being *part of the Flinchlock experience*. Its only until one witnesses a normal flintlock firing that they then realize somethings terribly wrong with the Traditions models.

And that something is the breech geometry. Extremely prone to fowling, very hard to clean in the field. Honestly, flat out F'ing dangerous when you fully consider it and the far reaching implications of totally frustrated and desperate Black Powder beginners having to fiddle around out in the field with pumping 3f or 4f into fowled touchole liners, shouldering multiple hangfires or pulling balls. Maybe they even give up, pull the flint and drive home with a stoked barrel that they'll later address in the confinements of a suburban garage or basement lol.

Every Flintlock newcomer should do themselves a favor and skip the Traditions offering, buy a used Lyman, Pedersoli or basically any new or used American made kit gun from a reputable name. Its like going from PowerFist to Huskavarna.
 
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I had a good flintlock from them.
It had overall good ignition and accuracy ect...

The thing however is that the lock has the frizzen screw, that threads from the back, so where the head is is in a counterbore and of course, that's where crap accumulates from firings...
It has been seized in there and I haven't been able to get it out... the head is stripped, and basically now.. I just need a gunsmith to carefully drill it out so I can make a pin to fit, from the back again instead of a screw.
Also, the main part to want of removing the screw, is that the flint has worn through the case hardening of the face of the frizzen, and I need to re shape and reharden it again.

other than that... my experience has been great.
 
I had a good flintlock from them.
It had overall good ignition and accuracy ect...

The thing however is that the lock has the frizzen screw, that threads from the back, so where the head is is in a counterbore and of course, that's where crap accumulates from firings...
It has been seized in there and I haven't been able to get it out... the head is stripped, and basically now.. I just need a gunsmith to carefully drill it out so I can make a pin to fit, from the back again instead of a screw.
Also, the main part to want of removing the screw, is that the flint has worn through the case hardening of the face of the frizzen, and I need to re shape and reharden it again.

other than that... my experience has been great.
Having the frizzen pin screw in from the back is common. You don’t need a “ gunsmith” to remove it ( in fact I would advise against it). Any good machine shop can mill that out in a few minutes and it will be perfect. While any gunsmith worth his salt will be able to do it but a machinist dies this sort of thing every day not once every 10 years AND good machine shops can be found pretty much anywhere. BTW, if the pin boss is blind, a pin won’t work as you won’t be able to remove it easily. Regardless, I would use a screw. Install it with copper coat or another anti-seize and you should be removing the lock every time you clean the gun so you can clean the inside as well as removing the frizzen pin to clean and lube.
 
Fare enough about the smith vs the machinist.... unforunatly, Ive found alot of shops dont often want to deal with strangers "gun" related stuff and rather not, citing liability or crap like that...

But in this case the pin would be passed through the back to the front of the lock to the front bridle.
Most ive seen have a brideled lock around the frizzen and screw outside to in... the head is easier to clean and less prone to fouling., that one there is the only one where it has been like this and after a few times the screw got messed up... thats with thorough proper maintenance.
 
Fare enough about the smith vs the machinist.... unforunatly, Ive found alot of shops dont often want to deal with strangers "gun" related stuff and rather not, citing liability or crap like that...

But in this case the pin would be passed through the back to the front of the lock to the front bridle.
Most ive seen have a brideled lock around the frizzen and screw outside to in... the head is easier to clean and less prone to fouling., that one there is the only one where it has been like this and after a few times the screw got messed up... thats with thorough proper maintenance.
How does a screw get “messed up” through “ thorough proper maintenance”. A big part of “proper maintenance” is useing proper hollow ground turn screws
 
It should also be pointed out that there should not be any "crap" accumulating in lthe lock mortise if the lock to barrel fit as it should be. Routine maintenance should NOT require stripping the lock down or removal of the frizzen and, as Ltk has said, properly fitted screwdrivers should always be used.
 
But in this case the pin would be passed through the back to the front of the lock to the front bridle.
Most ive seen have a brideled lock around the frizzen and screw outside to in... the head is easier to clean and less prone to fouling., that one there is the only one where it has been like this and after a few times the screw got messed up... thats with thorough proper maintenance.

My inclination is that maybe you are overthinking this - you are obviously not new to the game - so apologies if I am reiterating crap you already know....

Fouling:
- should not be working its way inside the lock mortise as others have said, I am going to assume it is not and the fouling is external working it's way forward from the pan under the frizzen then into the gaps where the bolt passes through the frizzen and lock plate. (that would be normal)
- that bolt should never get so tight that you wind up mangling the head/slot, it does not need to be tight at all - it is captive between the lock plate and barrel when the lock is installed by design.
> get a bolt with a higher tolerance in the thread fitment (get a bolt blank and an adjustable threading die) - that is the only place where fouling could be causing the screw to seize
> address/examine how much you are tightening it during 'cleaning'

Cleaning:
- your process is your process, but I have never had to remove a frizzen for general cleaning - only ever for actual maintenance...
> get a small vevor ultra sonic cleaner drop the whole lock in, dry with heat gun, oil - done.
> before theU/S cleaner I just let them soak in a bucket of water for a few minutes before scrubbing with a toothbrush/heat gun/oil

Maintenance:
- like I said, that bolt does not need to be torqued down to 500ft/lbs .... not even tight.
> don't do that.

Fouling in the first place:
- yes - it will happen, the more you shoot in a session, the more fouling, yes I have had frizzens get 'sticky' enough that they actually stop the #### rather than snapping back (or forwards rather) only solution is a quick field clean and a drop of oil or two, however, you get (noticeably) less fouling buildup when you use the minimum priming charge at a finer granulation.
> 4f tends to burn completely in the pan, a powder with larger grain size tends to throw the grains around before they burn up (you can evidence this by looking at the pin hole burns in your shooting glasses ;) ) use less, use finer.


My thoughts are you are about to over engineer a problem solved by an off the shelf part. i.e. get a better fitting bolt. - oh, and polish the living crap out of it where the frizzen bears on it.... :)
 
It should also be pointed out that there should not be any "crap" accumulating in lthe lock mortise if the lock to barrel fit as it should be. Routine maintenance should NOT require stripping the lock down or removal of the frizzen and, as Ltk has said, properly fitted screwdrivers should always be used.
Fouling can’t cause issues with the frizzen by getting on the head (like you said this should never be able to happen in the first place) but gets into the hinge/pivot on the pin. This does not change whether the bolt goes in from the inside or outside. I always remove the frizzen when cleaning a lock donn be I can clean that pin/pivot point. Never thought of dropping the whole thing in a sonic cleaner or even a bucket of water. Good ideas, I will continue to disassemble and clean because I enjoy relaxing while cleaning guns.
 
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