How to remove an SR-22 free float hand guard?
- Thread starter Chem
- Start date
By removing those two screws you take off the handguard and the adapter nut, I think maybe he's asking how to get the nut off so he can reuse the old one and screw on the new one. I too bought a new handguard and want to reuse the screw on thread but can't get the handguard tube off.
After taking off the front piece of the chassis (by removing the two screws shown above) slap it in a vice and twist off the hand guard tube. Then heat up the nut with a torch so that the gallon of loctite Ruger uses softens up, and then use a barrel nut wrench to crank off the large round threaded nut. If you don't have one, a set of channel locks will work, just make sure to protect the threads or you will ruin them. If you don't care to keep the nut, just crank away with the channel locks .. lol 
Install the new nut supplied with the Dlask kit and then attach locking ring and hand guard then rails and your good to go.
Install the new nut supplied with the Dlask kit and then attach locking ring and hand guard then rails and your good to go.
Last edited:
After taking off the front piece of the chassis (by removing the two screws shown above) slap it in a vice and twist off the hand guard tube. Then heat up the nut with a torch so that the gallon of loctite Ruger uses softens up, and then use a barrel nut wrench to crank off the large round threaded nut. If you don't have one, a set of channel locks will work, just make sure to protect the threads or you will ruin them. If you don't care to keep the nut, just crank away with the channel locks .. lol
Install the new nut supplied with the Dlask kit and then attach locking ring and hand guard then rails and your good to go.
There we go this guy knows what I'm talking about, I was not aware that the new dlask hand guard came with any hardware so I was assuming I'd have to save everything from the old one. Thanks for the info jt.
I've had and have two of the short HG Set ups from dlask. It comes complete with everything you need to install.
Start by putting the front chassis piece into a vice if you haven't already done so.
Use channel locks on the locking ring an spin it clockwise to loosen it. If you want to keep or resell the unwanted oem items I suggest you use thick tape or cloth to protect the finish when using the pliers.
Next grab the tube and spin it counter clockwise. It should come off freely as its not loctited on. If it doesnt want to turn. Try a dowel through the holes for some leverage.
Once off. Apply heat to the large nut and use channel locks or an AR Wrench to take it off. Wrap with tape or cloth to protect threads.
langfordbc
CGN Regular
- Location
- On the high line, BC
The most important part of this process is the HEAT. There is a ton of loctite that needs to be liquified.
I used a flat head brass punch to turn the locking ring CLOCKWISE (barrel nut loosens counter-clockwise). You can also use a large flat head screwdriver but obviously steel is harder than brass, potentially marking the locking ring.
I used a flat head brass punch to turn the locking ring CLOCKWISE (barrel nut loosens counter-clockwise). You can also use a large flat head screwdriver but obviously steel is harder than brass, potentially marking the locking ring.
So everything is apart except for the large nut on the adaptor, it hasn't been overly easy with no vise to lock the adapter into. Just need to melt some of that locktight on it, what were they thinking putting that much on, they don't realize to people may want to swap it out or something. Anyway, was just looking for some sort of advice on how hot to get it before I try to remove the nut. Thanks you guys have been great with the info.
I just got mine off yesterday. looks like they put locktight tape on there not the regular red liquid. I did find an old vice I had in the basement, without that forget it. I kept the locking ring on and squeezed that with a pair of lock ring plyers after heating it up.
They weren't thinking is what happened
Find a friend or go to crappy tire and buy a vise, you'll probably find a use for it down the line for other needs.
Make a block with a couple pieces of scrap 2x4 to brace it, then you can ask your significant other or a friend to hold it while you twist off the nut. As for the proper amount of heat, not sure, till it's hot and smoking? Personally I'd wrap the nut in a leather belt and grab the nut with vice grips or channel locks, break the weld from the loctite .. toss the old nut and hand guard in the parts bin and install the new Dlask kit since it comes with all the parts you need to install it properly ... but that's just me
Just as a follow up and a thank you to all the tips, yes heat is the most important aspect with this process, that nut is not going anywhere without melting that lock tight haha (Ask me how I know). It can also be done without a vise. I just made a frame out of 2x4 that the fore end adaptor fit into snugly to keep it from spinning, really though once the lock tight is melted there is little to no resistance in turning the barrel nut off of it for anyone thats still wondering out there. Anyway thanks for all the advice you guys are great.
