How to remove SMLE buttstock?

cantom

cantom

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I've got a big honking slotted screwdriver clamped in my vice. It's never failed before but even using my whole weight and strength, the screw thing inside the buttstock will not loosen. The screwdriver keeps popping out of the slot.
How have people done this?
There is a square shaped protrusion inside the action- does that rotate or how does this thing retain?

BTW, I found a full wood original 1917 Sht LE SMLE Enfield yesterday, traded some stuff for it plus $40. I've put about 50 patches down the bore so far, still coming out dirty, but it's cleaning up pretty nice.

These rifles are an amazing design...kind of a permanent British Doomsday machine. :eek: A very well made rifle.
 
Couple of questions - no offence intended, just making sure we are covering off all of the obvious....

You have removed fore-end first, right?

Penetrating oil applied to front of threads in receiver ring?

Leather washer removed from inside butt?

If your big screwdriver has a square shaft, try vice grips or a pipe wrench on the screwdriver to gain extra leverage.

Been there, cursed that!

Good luck!!

Neal
 
.... If all the other "wood" is taken off, you can try a little, judiciously applied, heat to the end of the bolt that shows through. A sharp rap on the screw driver will sometimes loosen things up and seat the tip of the blade deeper into the bolt head, thus allowing more torque to be applied. ..... these bolts have been in place for years, countless slammings into the Parade Ground, and lots of gummed up oil soaked in, so they can be a "little difficult" to remove ! ...... David K.
 
nelly said:
Couple of questions - no offence intended, just making sure we are covering off all of the obvious....

You have removed fore-end first, right?

Penetrating oil applied to front of threads in receiver ring?

Leather washer removed from inside butt?

If your big screwdriver has a square shaft, try vice grips or a pipe wrench on the screwdriver to gain extra leverage.

Been there, cursed that!

Good luck!!

Neal
Click to expand...

Yes, forend is off, penetrating oil applied to front square shaped threads. That thing has probably never been touched since 1917, it's a #####.

I have a very large slotted driver that I usually remove buttstocks with easily. Even with the square shank of the screwdriver clamped in my vise, and with my full strength and weight holding the gun down on the driver and torquing the rifle, I can't budge it. It just pops out of the slot and it isn't helping the slot any if you know what I mean...
There was no fiber washer in there, the screw slot is visible. The driver goes in but as for loosening it up...
 
David K said:
.... If all the other "wood" is taken off, you can try a little, judiciously applied, heat to the end of the bolt that shows through. A sharp rap on the screw driver will sometimes loosen things up and seat the tip of the blade deeper into the bolt head, thus allowing more torque to be applied. ..... these bolts have been in place for years, countless slammings into the Parade Ground, and lots of gummed up oil soaked in, so they can be a "little difficult" to remove ! ...... David K.
Click to expand...

Yeah! The parade ground thing was so pronounced that the top screw holding the buttplate on had no slot at all left, completely smooth. I had to drill 2 holes and tap it loose with a chisel.
I did think about heat, I must admit.
 
I've seen people on some Enfield boards recommend using a tire iron as the tip is beefier and fits the screw head better. Have not had to use one myself though.
 
I used some WD-40 and a 1/2 drive socket extension with a good socket and wide flat-head bit.

Worked like a charm.

Good luck.
 
You mentioned that the squared end of the stock bolt protrudes into the action. Miught be an idea to try working from that end after the usual liquid wrench application.

Other than that, I used a LARGE 3/8 drive screwdriver bit on the end of an extension bar and a breaker bar or 3/8 ratchet handle at the other end.
 
I agree with JS, the 3/8 drive screwdriver bit fits the slot in the retaining bolt really well. Be careful with that penetrateing oil, it can do it's job to well. Once that stuff gets into the stock, It goes deep and discolors the wood. The nice thing about that 3/8 drive bit is that you can really rap it hard to break the metal to metal friction weld. Have you tried turning it in just a little tighter first, then try turning it off? This works at least 75% of the time. As well, if it's truly rusted in and the stock is tight, maybe just leave it as is, after all it's not going to go anywhere. If you're planning on refinishing the stock, put a good layer of duct tape on the receiver so it won't be damaged in the process. bearhuneter
 
nelly said:
Couple of questions - no offence intended, just making sure we are covering off all of the obvious....

You have removed fore-end first, right?

Penetrating oil applied to front of threads in receiver ring?

Leather washer removed from inside butt?

If your big screwdriver has a square shaft, try vice grips or a pipe wrench on the screwdriver to gain extra leverage.

Been there, cursed that!

Good luck!!

Neal
Click to expand...

Speaking of that leather washer, I'm trying to remove the butt from a second SMLE, and I am having problems with getting it out of there. What sort of tool do people use to hook it out? It's kind of deep in there and most of my usual suspects don't reach that far in.
 
Just a hint on the coat hanger. You want to get the hook end in the screw slot and them move it sideways. It's going to take a few tries but you will eventualy get it out.
 
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