How to Safely Loosen M700 Action Screws ?

-Savage-

-Savage-

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Gentlemen,

I have a problem and I am hoping that the experts here can solve it.

A couple of weeks ago, I acquired a Remington M700 that came with a Hogue aftermarket synthetic stock.
Not being keen on synthetic stocks, I just purchased a brand-new factory Remington CDL walnut stock for it, and took delivery today.
And this afternoon, I attempted to take off the Hogue synthetic stock and mount my new walnut one.

However, when I tried to unscrew the two action screws (that hold the bottom metal and synthetic stock to the bottom of the receiver), they refuse to unscrew.
I used an Allen wrench to try to loosen the screws, and .. eventually .. exerted so much force that the wrench was bending - with no result.
I'm concerned that, if I try any harder, I will strip the heads of the screws and then I'll never get them out.

I contacted the seller of the Remy: Apparently his son mounted the Hogue stock and he used "TONS of Torque" on those action screws.
So ... I cannot mount my beautiful new walnut stock, because I cannot remove the synthetic one ..... *shakes head*

Your thoughts?

-Dennis
 
Use an Allen wrench and tap it with a hammer. That usually "breaks" the torque fairly well. Another option is to freeze the whole rifle. The plastic will shrink and hopefully make the fit looser, allowing you to take out the bolts. Hopefully the ape who put the thing together didn't decide to locktite the bolts in. Worst case scenario is you have to drill the heads off the bolts. You'll need new bolts of course, but that may be your only solution.
 
If you absolutely can't get them out, go to Canadian Tire and buy an impact screwdriver and the proper size allen socket...a couple of good whacks from a ball peen hammer should get them moving even if they are lock tighted.
 
Get a socket wrench and a hex driver socket or socket to accept hex bits and have at her. You'll get more leverage than a little allen key. Dunno why some folks think they need to tighten those action screws till your knuckles turn white.
 
Don't use a steel hammer. Use a hard plastic one. Miss with steel and you damage things.
Ask the guy if his kid knows what Lock-tite is. If he doesn't that'll hopefully eliminated it as the issue. Mind you, it's easier to deal with than a kid with a torque wrench. Bit of heat from a soldering iron does it.
You using a good padded vise? Holds the rifle well and gives you two hands.
 
Find something called an impact screwdriver, its a piece of metal that accepts sockets or hex screwbits, as you hammer the back the force gets applied into torque to loosten it. use a soft face hammer on the tool.
 
-Savage- said:
Thank you for all of the ideas ...

I tried them ALL ... and, so far, nothing has worked.

The seller said that his son did NOT use locktite.
But I suspect he did use a torgue wrench.

:/
Click to expand...

And apparently confused inch pounds and foot pounds. I think I would apply some heat just to rule out the Loctite option. A impact driver is a good option too. Worse comes to worse, drill out the heads, remove the action, and use what's left of the screw shafts to get them out. Good luck. - dan
 
Soak the screws with Kroil or some kind of penetrating oil for a half hour and try again. Chances are the head of the screw is galled and seized. If you need to drill the head of the screw off the remaining part of the screw will be able to be turned out by hand in most cases.
 
maynard said:
Soak the screws with Kroil or some kind of penetrating oil for a half hour and try again. Chances are the head of the screw is galled and seized. If you need to drill the head of the screw off the remaining part of the screw will be able to be turned out by hand in most cases.
Click to expand...

Maynard, your advice is good but won't work. How is the KROIL going to get down to where the problem is???

Dan, heat isn't a good option in this case, it could damage the stock.

I have had similar problems with several different stocks. I have a solution that you may or may not like or have the equipment to use.

The threads on the bedding bolts have obviously been slightly obdurated. this may even include the receiver but usually not.

This condition will lead to a fit that is forced to the point of acting like it is welded. Maybe it is, although very slightly. If enough pressure is used, the surfaces of the threads will be forced into the surfaces of the receiver threads.

The first thing I try with a synthetic stock is to pour boiling water into the receiver. Leave the bore open while doing this. That will cause the receiver to expand very slightly and might just allow your to break the bedding bolts loose. Pour enough boiling water through it so that it is to hot to handle without gloves.

Once the front screw releases, the rear screw is usually easier.

When push comes to shove, as was mentioned above, a light electric impact drill with a proper attachment for the right size allen socket can be used but very carefully. DO NOT hammer on it CONTINUOUSLY. Just use short bursts of a couple of seconds.

If those screws break off, they will break off flush with the receiver. Then you are going to have some real issues to contend with.

Actually, maybe just stay away from any method that increases leverage or pressure. Those bolts are strong but can shear without warning.

The method dan belisle suggests of drilling off the top of the heads is likely your best and safest way. New bedding bolts are cheap and available from some of the advertisers on the banner header. You're likely going to need new ones anyway.

The trigger guards are made of aluminum. There is a good chance that part of your problem is the bolt heads are seized in the aluminum as well. That would definitely compound your problem.
 
Go with Dan's suggestion and carefully drill the heads off. Once the extension/compression force is release the shank should turn out easily. Worst case scenario here is that the bolts will be siezed into the aluminum...at that point your either going to have to retap up a size and get an oversized bolt, put an insert into the trigger guard (which will work, but look like hell), replace the trigger guard or get someone really good to weld it up so you can re drill, retap and re finish....sorry bout your luck...:(
 
Give the impact screwdriver a try BEFORE drilling off the screw heads.... One of the first things you should learn is to try the easiest things first. A 1/4 inch fine thread bolt can take a pretty good whack from an impact screwdriver before snapping it off.
 
If you need to heat, put a steel rod or bolt against the head of the action bolt and heat that, conductivity will transfer the heat to the bolt without damaging the wood around it. You can also use the pontes tip of a soldering iron, if you have one, it will let you pinpoint where you want the heat. But I agree with the above posters, try the simple stuff first, always. - dan
 
Success !!!! ... the screws finally came out!!

Thank you everyone for your excellent and useful suggestions!

The socket heads of the screws are now somewhat rounded, so I will replace them with new factory stainless ones before reassembly.
But that's a small price to pay. And the stainless action looks sweet sitting in the CDL walnut stock ... :)

Cheers !!

-Dennis
 
For those who might want to know how, we were able to remove the worst one by driving a Torx™ head bit into the rounded out Allen™head bolt.
-Savage- said:
Success !!!! ... the screws finally came out!!

Thank you everyone for your excellent and useful suggestions!

The socket heads of the screws are now somewhat rounded, so I will replace them with new factory stainless ones before reassembly.
But that's a small price to pay. And the stainless action looks sweet sitting in the CDL walnut stock ... :)

Cheers !!

-Dennis
Click to expand...
 
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