how to stiffen forestock

I think he means channel or U beam there stubble jumper. You will have to accraglass it in though. If you try to buy it from a metal supply shop they will make you buy a full joint of it. Lots of money! But you can cheat. Go to a place that installs sliding windows and doors. They use the stuff as tracks and they will have a bin full of cut offs about a foot long that they will never use. Carpenters often use it as drawer tracks in expensive kitchen cabinet sets. Probably give you a foot for free. The size you want is ½ x ½ inch. As far as I’m concerned not much better than just filling the fore end with acraglass though. Rod
 
Buy your Aluminum from Metal super markets. They sell in what ever length you want. Sometimes pricey but atleast you don't have 10' left over.

Pete
 
before you do anything permanent, try shimming the end of the forearm and test the results on paper (some rifles like it and some don't). If it improves groups, then put some glass down in that area. depending on your action/stock bedding screws it can be as simple as knowing your screw torque when tightening those screws. set your gun up in the vise and monitor your back (tang) screw when you tighten it (use a dial gauge like they sell for checking out of round brass necks or for the lathe). If you are tightening your tang screw (most rear) and you see the gauge showing more than a 5 thou deviation you should glass bed your action.I hope this helps you
 
A cheap source for aluminum I beam is walmart, in the curtain rod section. You will have to cut it to length of course.

I find the I beam isn't rigid enough.

I just either use arrow shafting as well (usually 3 wired together) or better yet, a piece of 1/2 inch square bar stock. The bar stock is normally steel.

I know, it adds a lot of weight. Most rifles can use a lot more weight up front, it definitely makes them easier to shoot off hand with better stability.

Make the square stock as long as possible. You will be epoxying it in place anyway, so you don't need very much stock thickness around it.

bearhunter
 
A bit about this project(if you can call it that) I have going. Was new, plain jane version, with a cheap bushnell scope that came with. It shot minute of gopher/muskrat out to 70 meters. Shooting targets, I always noticed 2-3 flyers out of 10. Was it the trigger, ammo, me??

So I started free-floating the barrel. I don't know if the 597 is supposed to be, but I could not get a bill between the stock and barrel at all. A little at a time a bunch of times got me to where I need to be. Generous space on each side, and below barrel.

I also put in a target hammer from Volquartzen to lighten up the factory trigger pull...not quite accutrigger territory, but a great investment!

I've now noticed the forestock flexing, so it touches on one side near the end of the stock. The problem is aggravated by the bipod. Counterclockwise pressure with the shooting hand, forestock doesnt touch. Clockwise pressure and here we go with stringing, weird flyers, etc.

I have found it a learning experience so far, as I'm no gunsmith!! I will try to get my group pics downloaded. A few from yesterday bounce between .659 and .72 @ 27 meters.

I shoot 10 shot groups, no cool down, and pretty much line up and fire. This is really where the forestock touching is noticeable....1,2,3,4 touching, then bang, half inch up a single hole. Maybe I should shoot 4 shot groups:redface:

All in all, thanks for the tips, I appreciate every one, and I can't wait to see where it ends up. :sniper:
 
speerchucker30x378 said:
I think he means channel or U beam there stubble jumper. You will have to accraglass it in though. If you try to buy it from a metal supply shop they will make you buy a full joint of it. Lots of money! But you can cheat. Go to a place that installs sliding windows and doors. They use the stuff as tracks and they will have a bin full of cut offs about a foot long that they will never use. Carpenters often use it as drawer tracks in expensive kitchen cabinet sets. Probably give you a foot for free. The size you want is ½ x ½ inch. As far as I’m concerned not much better than just filling the fore end with acraglass though. Rod
Click to expand...

Nope its aluminium I beam...not channel or u beam. Buddy of mine builds synthetic stocks from scratch. Walked into his shop one day and he threw a stock at me and said here try and twist it against it self....I couldnt do it for the life of me.

He told me it was a new mountain rifle stock he was working on and asked me what it weighed...I said about a pound and a half....It was 14 ounces including the I beam to give it strength....which it had in spades.

If you are gonna use u beam put 2 of them together in the stock to form a square tubing,,,,,now the pressure has to bend 4 90 degree angles...now that is gonna be real strong.

Just as in new flooring in houses are using I beam to give them strength and stability...its the same for a gun stock....I probably have some left at work...I will look in the morning and let you know. you will have to dremel out a channel and bed it in....but you wont twist the stock after its done and its hell bent for strong...
 
Just had a idea and its real simple...go to the local hard ware or auto store and buy a piece of ready rod....comes in 3 foot lengths and will probably set ya back about 5 bucks. Its threaded steel rod.

You will probably want either 3/8s inch or 7/16s cut a chunk of it off...degrease it real good..dremel out the channel and bed it in there. When that sets in you have a solid steel liner...that wont bend or twist,is really cheap....the bedding will grab the threads and lock it in real solid,global warming will vanish...and I will win a lottery...
 
God I am just so full of ideas 2 nite....want some thing thats really hard...find a rv parts store and buy a shock from a canopy. Pressure ranges from 35 pounds to over 150 pounds.Largest one would probably be about 3.8s of a inch thick.

Expand the shock and cut the solid steel rod out to the needed length....its a virtual hydraulic cylinder which is gonna be very hard as well as chrome lined on the out side.Take a cut off tool and cut a bunch of slits in it for the bedding to grab to....cut the angles at something stupid like 15 degrees so the bedding really has a good anchor on it.

Ever tried to straighten out a hydraulic ram after its bent?? dont work worth a ####...That will probably be the most toughest thing you could use in a stock....cept for my ex ol ladies attitude,,,:rolleyes:
 
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