How to tell if a cartridge is a reload

[franktank]

Look for extractor and bolt marks, if you deburred it's gonna show. If they used factory crimped and reloaded many times, the crimp might be half way gone du to case trimming. The casing doesn't fully enter the die so there is gonna be a mark all around the casing where it stops. You'll see friction marks from the die up and down as well. There is calibers where it's almost impossible to tell especially pistol calibers.



You can see the shaving marks from the bolt here.

 

[kamlooky]

You can put them each on a scale and find out how far off they are from one another.
I've purchased ammo as told they were factory only to find the odd round in the mix
to make up a full box.

Another gun show dealer I purchased ard a dozen boxes of old Dominion factory ammo.
I checked a couple boxes only.
Later did I find one box had nearly all the rounds bent.
Weird.
Looked like someone rammed them into the wrong chamber.

If you don't pay a king's ransom for them, they make good reloading components.
Taws the powder, weigh the bullets and reload them.
Good sight in material to at least get close to the bullseye.

 

[blasted_saber]

Thank-you all for the input. Lots to consider

 

[SustainingGopher]

If it’s a military cartridge like Ivi or lake city you could check to see if the primer crimp has been reamed out?

 

[Ian Sa]

I've stockpiled some reloads over the years and can't recall the source anymore.
Some were gun shows as well as a friend who reloaded some .308 (with inconsistent headspace).

Is there a more-safe way to discharge this stuff? I will liikely use it in a bolt gun to avoid any problems with squibs.
I suppose I could weigh them to try to weed out any obvious problems.

I'd rather not throw it away. It's mostly likely good however since I didnt' do it myself and I neglected to label it I can't be sure.

 

[Jäger1]

Most reloader don't do a factory crimp on rifle cartridges.

In my experience, a crimp has 2 key advantages:

1) When loading for high volume-low cost, you want to get away with as little powder as you need. It has been my experience with crimps that higher pressures are generated, leading to the ability to drop a powder charge without sacrificing reliability on a semi-auto.

2) Squib protection. A strong crimp will prevent the bullet from leaving the case with a primer charge alone. A squib round can ruin a range trip or end a match. If the bullet does not leave the case, it is a matter of clearing a dud round and carrying on.