How to torque this style of ring

Every one who requires a torque value is over thinking it... good and tight has been sufficient for 100 years...

Lol, sure thing boss. You do know even small screws will have torque specs, nothing wrong with looking for info. I know I’ve ham fisted the odd bolt and heard the crack of it break or stripped a thread. Sometimes it’s nice to have the piece of mind that it’s been done right.
 
Every one who requires a torque value is over thinking it... good and tight has been sufficient for 100 years...

Glad you are retired. How many customer guns came back because the good and tight didn't work?

Ever wonder why your rotors on your cars warp? The days of tightening till you cannot is no more. Most now require like 80 ft lbs. As a engine builder, it doesn't fly.
 
Glad you are retired. How many customer guns came back because the good and tight didn't work?

Ever wonder why your rotors on your cars warp? The days of tightening till you cannot is no more. Most now require like 80 ft lbs. As a engine builder, it doesn't fly.

Oh boo hoo... I am glad I am retired too.... and none.

This is a firearms forum not an engine rebuilding forum, although I have done that as well and I used torque wrenches and the correct torque... even on a spark plug change.

Back in the 60's when I attended a gunsmithing school for two years the subject of actual torque figures and firearms was never discussed. Somehow good and tight did work.

Eventually torque wrenches and values were promoted and sold for firearm use.

And I did have a few torque wrenches when I was smithing. I succumbed to the sales pitch... but good and tight still worked.
 
Glad you are retired. How many customer guns came back because the good and tight didn't work?

Ever wonder why your rotors on your cars warp? The days of tightening till you cannot is no more. Most now require like 80 ft lbs. As a engine builder, it doesn't fly.

I had a friend that got into racing vintage motorcycles, he kept blowing the motor on his over bored Yamaha RZ/RD, turns out he didn’t own a torque wrench. We started calling his wrench the “Greek torque wrench”, after the second rebuild blew up on the track he bought a proper torque wrench. I guess tight enough didn’t cut it lol.

Back in the 60's when I attended a gunsmithing school for two years the subject of actual torque figures and firearms was never discussed. Somehow good and tight did work.

Things have changed since the 60’s thankfully, clearly there are manufacturers that list torque specs. Good and tight is only so good, this attitude is the main reason I do my own work whenever possible. At least I know it’s mounted right and not good enough.
 
Every one who requires a torque value is over thinking it... good and tight has been sufficient for 100 years...

I disagree. As an engineer who has specified torque values on many pieces of equipment I say there is a reason they specify a specific number. Even worse, the tendency is for people to overtorque small fasteners and undertorque larger ones, so using a torque wrench is a good way to not overdo 'good and tight' and strip threads or otherwise screw something up.


Mark
 
The ring, if installed properly, does not depend upon having a tight connection (ie having sufficient friction to stop the ring from sliding axially - as per a 22 ring). The crossbar needs to be butted against the base during set-up, then the lever tightened up snug - modest force applied by fingers.
A fella can tell if everything is set up (aligned) properly when things snug up quickly. Otherwise, you may have a mount problem, and unduly stressing the scope - bad news.

^ Thats all there is to it !

No need for a torque wrench unless there's no crossbars or lug on the bottom of the rings.
 
TIL scope rings are just as critical as an engine.

Not me, using my middle finger as a torque wrench with supplied Allen keys and hitting 19inlbs just off instinct....Never had a scope issue.
 
Tight as I can get it is not as tight as some others can get it.

I rely heavily on manufacturers information and tools to install in accordance to that information.

My arthritic hands don't have the feel or fine motor skills they once did.
 
Tight as I can get it is not as tight as some others can get it.

I rely heavily on manufacturers information and tools to install in accordance to that information.

My arthritic hands don't have the feel or fine motor skills they once did.

Torque it with the screw through the lever, it’s what it’s there for. 20-22 in-lbs should be plenty.
 
What else is there to do for entertainment?

On a different note, are you drunk 'looky? This might be the first post of yours in straight English that I've ever seen in 15 years on this forum.


Mark

Recovering from surgery.
Haven’t had a drop of booze in almost two months.
Not like some others, eh bb?

That’s tea in me cup Laddie.:onCrack:
 
Ha! No doubt. Ah well “Tight but not too tight.” it is then I guess. I’ve only ever seen QD rings that had torx screws through the levers, both of mine do.

Maybe try to find a small adjustable wrench or something that will fit over the lever, the instructions on my Bushnell red dot were to snug up the Allen screw on the mounting claw and then give it a 1/4 turn more. It’s never come loose, I’d probably go that route.
 
The center nut is used to "range" the lever, such that it can tightened at an appropriate angle. People use torque wrenches to get a predictable pre-load on a fastener. The relationship between torque and pre-load is dependent upon the thread pitch, wet vs dry threads, rust, etc. In particular, lubing the threads has a tremendous effect - I'm surprised the various ring manufacturers dont specify wet vs dry. With the very fine thread utilized in rings, it is very easy to strip threads through over-tightening. Over the years, I've run across this on various used rifles I have bought - particularly on aluminum rings.
OP - In your case, the pitch of the throw lever cam establishes the relationship between torque and pre-load, along with other parameters such as lubrication. Using recommendations from other ring manufacturers is limiting. Case in point, the Burris Z-ring relies upon substantial pre-load to actually pinch the solid ring closed. Only a small fraction of the torque is used to secure the ring to the base - a poor design IMHO.
I would guess that the throw lever cam has a very shallow pitch, which allows the convenience of finger tight (wet), even with arthritic hands. After all, they are quick-release...
 
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Some people (not me) have very strong hands from a lifetime of physical work. "hand tight" for some folks can be thread-stripping tight.
 
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