How to zero your rifle in 2 shots.

landphil said:
Two days before the season? What about the opening day, after hunting all morning? And I thought a pie plate was needed? Or, is that for sighting in for deer hunting. Darn, I'm all confused now.
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There are various regional and personal variations to this system, but the basics are truly universal. ;)
 
Gatehouse said:
There are various regional and personal variations to this system, but the basics are truly universal. ;)
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OK, thanks for the clarification, it helps a lot :) I'll feel free to personalize as required.;)


For the record, I prefer to use a target with 1" grids, shoot a 3 or five shot group, then make adjustments, and shoot another group. Maybe I just like shooting more than 2 shots per year.
 
Don't get the first video the dude says to move the crosshairs high and to the left, yet there moving low and right as his buddy is moving them????
 
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It's because of the way the turrets are marked. They are marked opposite of what is actually happening mechanically when you turn them. This is because we like to think about moving the bullet impact to where we are aiming, not moving the crosshairs to were the bullet is hitting.

He needs to tell his buddy to do the opposite of what the crosshairs needs to do or he'll be moving them in the opposite direction of what he wants.
 
Yeah, I've had those brainfarts. Impact is to the left of PoA, alrighty turn turret in the left direction. Next shot tends to be quite damning.
 
Mystic Precision said:
As long as the scope tracks, you can do this alone.

rifle well supported.

For a bolt action, take the bolt out and look down the bore to sight on the target. This is truly what BORE SIGHTING is all about.

Without moving rifle, see where the scope is looking. Adjust as necessary to get cross hairs into center of target as viewed by bore.

Fire 1 shot. From the impact see how many minutes of adjustment you need. Dial as needed to correct. This shot should be near or in the center.

Done.

Jerry
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Yup. Good method for bolt actions. You can also use a quality laser bore sighter to get you close on paper if you own something else.
 
If I'd zeroed my scope in two shots, i'd never have figured out the damned thing doesn't track.

I feel it's best to not be cheap, and to put in the time. I shoot two or three for every adjustment, with time to cool between each shot. You owe it to the critters.
 
Mystic Precision said:
As long as the scope tracks, you can do this alone.

rifle well supported.

For a bolt action, take the bolt out and look down the bore to sight on the target. This is truly what BORE SIGHTING is all about.

Without moving rifle, see where the scope is looking. Adjust as necessary to get cross hairs into center of target as viewed by bore.

Fire 1 shot. From the impact see how many minutes of adjustment you need. Dial as needed to correct. This shot should be near or in the center.

Done.

Jerry
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Yup. Good method for bolt actions. You can also use a quality laser bore sighter to get you close on paper if you own something else. I find them a bit hard to see in daylight but have had some success with reflective tape. Green is better than red laser.
 
Mystic Precision said:
Definitely hash mark reticle with matching scope clicks makes life so much easier but the vast majority of scopes out there use the basic duplex crosshair.

I like the first NSSF vid. Simple and easy to understand and works for the vast majority out there in the shooting community.

BUT shooters have to account for the mechanical accuracy of their rifle, ammo and skill. If the rifle used in that NSSF vid could only group 2MOA, then that first shot was IN THE GROUP. Adjusting would just move the entire group somewhere else. This is why shooters fight adjusting their scope a bit here and a bit there and sometimes, never seem to get things centered.

They are expecting 1 hole accuracy when their set ups will not do that. Here taking 2 or 3 shot groups helps. Moving the group center to the center of the target works best.... you are moving the average of where your shots will land into the center of the desired target.

Jerry
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I see instances on a regular basis where people that can't group better than 2moa fire shot after shot, adjusting the scope after every shot, chasing the point of impact all over the target.
 
Gatehouse said:
Well that's a pretty fancy pants way of zeroing. I've always thought it was done like this:

2 days before hunting season, go to the gun store and buy 2 boxes of whatever ammo is cheapest. Then hit the beer store for a dozen BOTTLES of beer. Can't use cans for this. But get a cardboard flat to use as a target. Just jiffy marker a bullseye on the back of it.

Get to the shooting spot and lay the case of beer on the table/hood of pickup or whatever stable platform you are using. Crack your second beer. (First was drank as a road pop)

Set up your target around 175 yards because "that's about how far I will shoot the moose from."

Balance the rifle on the beer box and start shooting. You gotta shoot fast because each time you empty another beer, your rest is getting lighter and less stable. It's good to have a buddy along to spot where the bullet hits the dirt/stump/bush and call left or right. If it's too far left, twist those dials to the right! Okay, it's too far right now? Gotta go back a bit!

Repeat that until you hit the beer flat a few times. By this time you will be about half way through your second box of bullets. Hitting the beer flat a few times is good enough, cause moose are big, and besides, everyone knows that shooting paper is for wussies and I'm poison on game.

Make sure you save your last beer for the drive home, too. ;)
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That is exactly what I does!!
 
If you have 2 sighting systems, such as a cowitness red dot, you can have one sight on the point of aim, the other on the impact point.
No need to hold the rifle steady the whole time.
http://4.bp.########.com/-OagXBXHrITw/VReu-OhXk-I/AAAAAAAACLQ/BJeqxpTUnME/s1600/sight1.png
http://2.bp.########.com/-HsomHEm5ojc/VRevApqG-4I/AAAAAAAACLc/c-d45YCZNnw/s1600/sight2.png
 
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