How well does Winchester White box .223 brass reload?

CanuckShooter

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Is it decent brass to use for reloading?

It would be shot through a savage.

How many reloads could I expect from the brass?

Thanks
 
Awesome. Looks like it's a pretty good deal from Marstar for 1200 rounds.

You can get it at WalMart for cheap too. I like availability lol.
 
i've never had a problem with it at all- and i've gone though tons of the stuff- had an ar since 1989 back when we could use 30 round mags- just follow the usual LUBING when you're reloading-
 
Great news, I'm a collecting some , gotta try some Match bullets and see if they are as good as last go round. :D
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So when shoting through a bolt action like the Savages, do you guys just neck size, or ful length size? Whyich is better and why, if you don't mind me asking lol
 
If you are just going to use it in one particular rifle, especially a bolt action, you only need to neck size. Semi auto 'should' be full length sized unless you have confidence that your headspace is really nice and tight.

Neck sizing will cut right down on the expansion of the brass. The factory sizing is generic so that the round will feed in all rifles, reloading for one rifle means that the brass is already formed to your chamber.
 
So, if I just neck size brass used in a bolt action that has decent headspace and avoid the full length resizing, will that save wear on the brass as opposed to the constant full length sizing back to factory spec (squishing) and firing (stretching) the brass?

Am I on the right track?
 
You are 100% correct. Just don't use it in any other rifle without full length resizing. The once fired brass in your bolt action should not stretch at all along the case body. What you are doing with neck sizing is just reworking the brass where it contacts the bullet and flows into the free throat of the chamber. You do not touch the shoulder of the case at all and therefore do not shorten the length of the case.

One last word on this. If you take a once fired case from your firearm, neck size it, and put it back into the chamber with your fingers, you should be able to pull it back out, turn it 90 deg., put it back in. Do this for the full rotation of the cartridge. If it is difficult to put back in then the chamber is out of round and you would be better off full length resizing. Your cartridge would be fireformed out of round. You can also tell by rolling the cartridge on a flat surface and looking for a wobble.
 
Oh, and sooner or later you are going to have to anneal the necks of your brass depending on how many reloads you get out of it. Neck sizing should give you quite a few reloads until the neck starts to split from work hardening. You should never see that case seperation around the base of your cartridge.
 
with neck only sizing, and not max loads, how often should the necks be annealed? is there a way to determine if it is required?
 
Well, the easiest way to tell is when they start splitting. You may see this when you are neck sizing or after being fired in the rifle again. I don't neck size any reloads since I reload for semi.

When you neck size your reloads a couple of times, pay close attention to the opening of the brass and see if you find any notches starting to form. That would be time to anneal. It would also be a very good idea to keep a log of how many reloads you get out of your brass so you can anneal before this starts to happen.
 
Bras sis pretty cheap, and my time is not, so I have givenup on annealing and just ditch the cases after a certain point (depending n the cartirdge)

usully I dump the whole lot as soon as I see a split or anytign liek that...

I always ditch high pressure rifle brass after max of 10 loads, usually mor elike 7, even though I have used some as may as 20 times...
 
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