HU: Norinco '.22 KKW Trainer' (now with pics)

- Another option is see-through rings. I have some of the perfect height kicking around. I put pics of them in my militaria for sale thread.

ScopeRings1.jpg
 
Yes they are 1"...

That's a paper scope. 0x magnification bleached white with no crosshairs or glass. It's for sale too. I think they used them in the Volkssturm late war.
 
Just mounted a new 30mm red dot with dovetail mount on my JW-25a. The mounting clamps just cleared either side of the ejection port. Gun has no problem ejecting spent casings and the sight sits high enough to look over both the sight ramp and most of the front sight as well. Just got to get it to the range now so i can get it sighted in. If this works out, it's probably the easiest, most functional and lowest cost solution to the crooked sight ramp and inability to mount a scope without the side mount or insanely high rings. It does take away from the look a bit, but sometimes ease of use outweighs looks. I'll post again when I get my results from the range.
 
Norinco JW25A Range Report

I wished more people who shot their guns would come and post their results.
So after 155 posts and 5300 views, nobody can posts a pic of what scope solution they used, huh?

And other than "cosmoline, weak spring, sight off, shoots low, blahblah", we are unable to know how well it shoots.
2-1/2" or 4" groups @ 50yds., or shotgun pattern, or what?:confused:

Mine is still in pieces, but I started working on it.
Not only filing the burrs but some other things as well.
I still didn't find see-thru rings, I believe I have to build my own base:(

Hello!

First of all I am very new to rifles. This is the first one I have ever bought or owned. I bought "A" rifle because our club has recently started a BR50 competition. I found it fun, interesting and wanted to participate. I bought "THIS" particular rifle because:
1. It looks realy nice! :) Everyone in the club that has seen it wants to buy one too!
2. Its the only good rifle I could afford. It costs P11,000.00 (USD 250) Armscor rifles are made here but the good ones are all exported the "rest" are sold locally.:(
3. Im a hopeless romantic. I am challenged to make this cheapo little rifle shoot as well as the more expensive rifles (Anschutz, Sako, CZ 452/453, etc.)

I got my rifle on June 8, 2011 and to date I have fired 1,665rds. I have kept records of my various range trips and they are as follows:

I. Break-in Iron Sights (50M):
- Armscor Hi Vel 40gr CJRN - 200rds. - all shots into 6" target, shotgun pattern.
- Remington Golden Bullet Hi Vel 40gr CJRN - 100rds. - all shots into 6" target, smaller shotgun pattern.
- CCI Std. Vel 40gr. LRN - 10rds. - all shots into 6" target, 3" shotgun pattern.

II. Removed rear sight leaf and spring. Covered exposed mount top with black plastic "cover" and epoxy/super glue. Mounted Bushnell Banner 3-9x 32mm scope with Low Mounts (Air gun/airsoft low mounts).
- Sellier & Bellot Hi Vel 38gr. LRN - 200rds. - 1-2" groups w/ 3-4 shot 1 hole groups, was able to aim and hit 1/2" targets, but most were fliers.
- Armscor Hi Vel 40gr. CJHP - 50rds. - 3-4" groups, shotgun pattern, No aim possible.
- Armscor Hi Vel 36gr. CJHP - 120rds. - 3-4" groups, shotgun pattern, No aim possible.
- Armscor Std Vel. 40gr. LRN - 100rds - 2-3" groups, shotgun pattern, No aim possible.
- Armscor "Highland" Super Quiet 40gr. LRN 100rds. - 1-2" groups, shotgun pattern, No aim possible.
- Winchester T22 Target 40gr. LRN - 100rds. - 1-2" groups w/ 3-4 shot 1 hole groups, was able to aim and hit 1/2" targets, but most were fliers.
- CCI Mini Mag 36gr. CJHP - 100rds. - 1-2" groups w/ 3-4 shot 1 hole groups, was able to aim and hit 1/2" targets, but most were fliers.
- Remington Golden Bullet Hi Vel 40gr. CJRN - 191rds. - 1-2" groups w/ 3-4 shot 1 hole groups, was able to aim and hit 1/2" targets, but most were fliers.
- Remington Cyclone Hi Vel 36gr. LHP - 250rds. - 3-4" groups, shotgun pattern, No aim possible.
- Sellier & Bellot Std. Vel 40gr. LRN - 100rds. - 2-3" groups, shotgun pattern, No aim possible.
- CCI Std. Vel 40gr. LRN - 35rds. - 1-2" groups w/ 3-4 shot 1 hole groups, was able to aim and hit 1/2" targets, no fliers. Must test more.
- Lapua X-Act 40gr. LRN - 9rds. 1" groups. Must test more.

Why so many? because I was testing ammo to see what shoots best in my rifle. Because our next BR50 competition is on July 3, 2011. Some of the ammo was given by a friend, most by my brother who switched to CCI Mini Mag for his Walther P22 and gave me his stockpile. The Armscors I bought myself.

I know this rifle can be made to shoot 1/2" groups! It has already made several of those when it doesn't shoot fliers!

Any help and advice would be most welcome!

Thank you!

Nico
 
Holy BTT batman, after 3.5 years...



Welcome to CGN, Nico :)

Nice to hear you got a JW25A.
Cool rifles, but a little cheap.
I let mine go about 1.5 years ago.
Now I got a TU 33/40, which is the same thing with JW25A,
but built few years before and it has the original scope.
In fact, I bought the one I showed 3.5 years ago in post #103.
I plan to restore it to spotless shinny condition,
somewhere in the distant future, if and when I will have time.


You say you are new to rifles,
and you get in a BR50 like a pitbull,
I have to say I am impressed.

From my little knowledge I can humbly suggest to you
first to stick to the ammo that gives you the least amount of flyers.

Secondly, perhaps you knew it already,
after cleaning, or when changing ammo,
allow the first 20-50 shots of the new ammo
to season (or dress) the barrel with the lube (wax) specific
to that ammo before measuring results.
The best thing is to even clean the barrel when changing brands of ammo.
Clean from the breach (not from the muzzle) and
be sure you don't damage the crown.

Make sure your scope mounting solution is solid and
secured against recoil.
For me personally, magnification is king (at any distance),
because you can't hit what you can't see.

Pillar-bedding your action would help you very much,
because the stock fit of the Norincos is not that great.
If you can find someone to do it for you, go for it.
If not, if you say you are new to rifles, then don't do it yourself,
because the JW25A is not the gun to learn/practice bedding.

Going back to ammo, be aware that the cheap ammo
has more flyers than the target ammo.


These are some posts in another thread where I try to discuss
the method of finding some suitable ammo for a semi-automatic rifle:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3795028#post3795028

However, the chamber of the JW is much more forgiving,
as it is supposed to swallow a lot of the ammo 10/22 does not.
For intance, I know CCI can shoot very nice in the Norinco,
unlike the semi-auto Ruger 10/22, where it doesn't even chamber.
 
Welcome to CGN, Nico :)

Nice to hear you got a JW25A.
Cool rifles, but a little cheap.
I let mine go about 1.5 years ago.
Now I got a TU 33/40, which is the same thing with JW25A,
but built few years before and it has the original scope.
In fact, I bought the one I showed 3.5 years ago in post #103.
I plan to restore it to spotless shinny condition,
somewhere in the distant future, if and when I will have time.


- Thank you Sir for the welcome and the very good advice.

- Some of the Projects I have seen here are mind blowing!!!! I too will make a Project of this rifle. First I will do my best to turn it into a Tack Driver, then I will work on making it beautiful! Wont be very authentic though it wont have the rear sight leaf.

You say you are new to rifles,
and you get in a BR50 like a pitbull,
I have to say I am impressed.


- It is so much fun! Much much more than the IPSC Pistol competitions I was doing! And way cheaper in expenses specially ammo! Reloads here cost about USD 1.25/rd!

- Practicing my little rifle is like taking a mini vacation! You actually have to relax to shoot better! :)

From my little knowledge I can humbly suggest to you
first to stick to the ammo that gives you the least amount of flyers.


- Yes Sir, but so far most of the ammo I shot have approx 60% fliers.

Secondly, perhaps you knew it already,
after cleaning, or when changing ammo,
allow the first 20-50 shots of the new ammo
to season (or dress) the barrel with the lube (wax) specific
to that ammo before measuring results.
The best thing is to even clean the barrel when changing brands of ammo.
Clean from the breach (not from the muzzle) and
be sure you don't damage the crown.


- I noticed that Sir. After 20+ rds the groups tightened up a bit. I thought it was just the barrel warming up (vs "Cold Shots"?). I will follow your cleaning advice Sir. I use a Boresnake. I was wary about sticking a very LOOOOONG cleaning rod into the bore.

Make sure your scope mounting solution is solid and
secured against recoil.
For me personally, magnification is king (at any distance),
because you can't hit what you can't see.


- Yes Sir. I check the screws often to make sure they are not loose. At first I thought it was the screws and the scope that was messing up.

- I agree Sir and I have scoured the net looking at different scopes. I found some that are 6-24x40mm and even a few 8-32x40mm. There are a lot of big magnification scopes in the 50mm Objective and higher. But only a 40mm will fit our rifles if you remove the rear sight leaf. Better yet 40mm with side adjusting parallax so the objective bell is smaller. There are many scoup mounts for our rifles but they are made for air guns and airsoft rifles. Check there Sir you may not have to make mounts from scratch.

Pillar-bedding your action would help you very much,
because the stock fit of the Norincos is not that great.
If you can find someone to do it for you, go for it.
If not, if you say you are new to rifles, then don't do it yourself,
because the JW25A is not the gun to learn/practice bedding.


- Thank you for the advice Sir. I will look for someone who can do this for me. No way I will do this! Till a few months ago I never even heard of pillar-bedding!

- While were on this what do you advice with regard to "Floating" the barrel? I think we can take some wood off the fore end, and even the top stock as this does not seem to be resting on top of the barrel. The rear stock rings hold the wood together but don't seem to be touching the barrel. The front stock rings could be "widened" a fraction so they don't contact the barrel. Im not sure but maybe the bayonet mount can be shaved off a bit at the top just so it does not contact the barrel. Your thoughts and suggestions would be most welcome.

Going back to ammo, be aware that the cheap ammo
has more flyers than the target ammo.


- Oh YES! I can vouch for that!

These are some posts in another thread where I try to discuss
the method of finding some suitable ammo for a semi-automatic rifle:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3795028#post3795028


- Wow! I just checked the post Sir! Can you help me make my JW25A shoot groups like that too!!!!

- I didn't know about the barrel break-in procedures! I hope I didn't ruin my barrel!!!!!

However, the chamber of the JW is much more forgiving,
as it is supposed to swallow a lot of the ammo 10/22 does not.
For intance, I know CCI can shoot very nice in the Norinco,
unlike the semi-auto Ruger 10/22, where it doesn't even chamber.


- Good to know Sir. The CCI Std. Vel seemed to have the tightest groups. I will test at least 100rds to make sure. I was also thinking about the CCI Subsonic. But they are currently not available here. I will shoot some more and post the results.

- Now there is one Project to turn our NORINCO JW25A into a Tack Driver without changing the barrel or action! I will keep the group posted on the progress and Ill post pictures as well.

Again thank you for your time and advice Sir.

God Bless

Nico
 
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Nico, you have to be the most enthusiastic and polite member I've seen on CGN in a long time. It's refreshing to see, and people could learn a thing or two from your attitude (including me). Best of luck with your project and I hope you continue to post your results.:)
 
Nico, you have to be the most enthusiastic and polite member I've seen on CGN in a long time. It's refreshing to see, and people could learn a thing or two from your attitude (including me). Best of luck with your project and I hope you continue to post your results.:)

Thank you for the kind words Sir. I am learning so much as well. I will keep posting and will add pictures.

God Bless!

Nico
 
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Norinco JW25A Up date Range Report

Fired today PNSA (Philippine National Shooting Association) 50M Range, Phil Marines GHQ (Fort Bonifacio, Taguig City, Metro Manila)

1:30PM Cool, Slightly overcast, no wind to very slight breeze.

- Remington Subsonic 38gr. LHP - 100rds. - 2-3" groups, Shotgun pattern, No aim possible.

- Cleaned barrel as per Dr. Lector advice. Boresnake but no cleaning solution, 3 passes.

- CCI Std. Vel. 40gr. LRN - 200rds. - 1/2" - 3/4" groups w/ 3-4 shot 1 hole groups. Minimal fliers approx 19% but still ALL shots inside 1" targets. Hits to Point of Aim. BR50 Target Test - 25rds only. 16% center ring hits, 28% outside center ring but still inside target. 56% outside target. There was a whole lot of shaking going on!:) I was so excited!!!!!

Praise the Lord! I found the right Ammo! Dr. Lector and the other members were right! My Norinco JW25A positively LOVES! CCI Standard Velocity!

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

God Bless!

Nico
 
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- CCI Std. Vel. 40gr. LRN - 200rds. - 1/2" - 3/4" groups w/ 3-4 shot 1 hole groups. Minimal fliers approx 19% but still ALL shots inside 1" targets. Hits to Point of Aim. BR50 Target Test - 25rds only. 16% center ring hits, 28% outside center ring but still inside target. 56% outside target. There was a whole lot of shaking going on!:) I was so excited!!!!!
o

Hey Nico, I'm just wondering what type of rest you are using for your rifle. Are you using a front and rear bag?
 
Nico, the link I have posted for you was reffering to
a barrel for a semiauto rifle made specifically for
a group of ammos that is sold on this market.


Bolt-actions have specifics that might be a little different.


First, that Norinco does not have
the best reputation regarding accuracy.
Some things might be improved, though.

There are also some that cannot be improved or fixed easy.

On that gun, one can do nothing about:
the headspace,
the chamber,
the rifling.


What can be done on that gun:
-re-crown,
-pillar bedding,
-maybe free floating (as you already noticed,
it may not be so easy),
and even if done, it can be used only together with pillar bedding.
When free-floating the barrel, the stock should be rigid enough
not to touch the barrel when the gun is rested on sandbags.
-take your bolt apart without losing parts
and clean and lube the parts, especially the firing pin.

Cleaning the barrel:
the real cleaning is done with rod, solvent, brush, patch.
The snake is only something optional and should be used only when
in a rush. The snake gets dirty fast and what it does
is recycling the dirt and fouling.


You should know your gun very well, especially when
is the best to do the cleaning.
You should know how many shots you need
for a good seasoning (when the gun starts to group well),
also after how many shots you need cleaning
before the groups would start growing.

Also, a seasoned barrel stays properly seasoned
only for a number of minutes.
If it stays un-shot, the seasoning becomes hard and dry, and then
the first shots after "the break" will become fliers and should be used
only for warm-up (do not use them for your paper target).
If seasoning is older than few minutes,
then you may use few shots until the barrel
can be considered "seasoned" again.
Sometimes, warm-up shots are not worth it,
and cleaning and starting from beginning is a better option.


Especially for rimfire, the wind can beat
the best gun, the best shooter and the best preparations.


Good luck to you.
 
Nico, the link I have posted for you was reffering to
a barrel for a semiauto rifle made specifically for
a group of ammos that is sold on this market.

- Yes Sir, but they were so incrediblly impressive I was hoping I could find a way to do it too with the JW25A.

Bolt-actions have specifics that might be a little different.


First, that Norinco does not have
the best reputation regarding accuracy.
Some things might be improved, though.

There are also some that cannot be improved or fixed easy.

On that gun, one can do nothing about:
the headspace,
the chamber,
the rifling.

- Sad to hear but noted Sir.

What can be done on that gun:
-re-crown,
-pillar bedding,
-maybe free floating (as you already noticed,
it may not be so easy),
and even if done, it can be used only together with pillar bedding.
When free-floating the barrel, the stock should be rigid enough
not to touch the barrel when the gun is rested on sandbags.
-take your bolt apart without losing parts
and clean and lube the parts, especially the firing pin.

- Noted Sir. I clean rifle specially the Bolt Assembly after evey range session.

Cleaning the barrel:
the real cleaning is done with rod, solvent, brush, patch.
The snake is only something optional and should be used only when
in a rush. The snake gets dirty fast and what it does
is recycling the dirt and fouling.

- Noted Sir. But using that long cleaning rod really worries me!

- I always clean the rifle after every range session. What cleaning solution would you recommend? I use Hoppe's #9.

- What lube should I use? and how much of it do I use? Is it ok to use "Super Lube" synthetic grease on the bolt assembly?

You should know your gun very well, especially when
is the best to do the cleaning.
You should know how many shots you need
for a good seasoning (when the gun starts to group well),
also after how many shots you need cleaning
before the groups would start growing.

Also, a seasoned barrel stays properly seasoned
only for a number of minutes.
If it stays un-shot, the seasoning becomes hard and dry, and then
the first shots after "the break" will become fliers and should be used
only for warm-up (do not use them for your paper target).
If seasoning is older than few minutes,
then you may use few shots until the barrel
can be considered "seasoned" again.
Sometimes, warm-up shots are not worth it,
and cleaning and starting from beginning is a better option.

WOW! So thats why the first shots of a group are usually out of the group! Oh man I have a lot of learning to do! I will take more detailed and carefull notes Sir.

Especially for rimfire, the wind can beat
the best gun, the best shooter and the best preparations.

- Yes Sir. I am always watching the wind. Thats why sometimes I take long "rests" sometimes between shots waiting for the wind to die down.

Good luck to you.

- Again thank you for your time and advice Sir. They were very helpful.

God Bless!

Nico
 
Pillar-Bedding and Free Floating the Norinco JW25A

Hello!

I would like to inquire if anyone has actually pillar-bedded and/or free floated the Norinco JW25A? If so what are the results? What are the things to watch out for, the do's and don'ts?

I am going to have it done to my rifle to hopefully improve accuracy - turn it into a CONSISTENT tack driver. I'd like to know more about it, if it actually works before I get it done.

Thank you in Advance.

God Bless

Nico.
 
Also, a seasoned barrel stays properly seasoned
only for a number of minutes.
If it stays un-shot, the seasoning becomes hard and dry, and then
the first shots after "the break" will become fliers and should be used
only for warm-up (do not use them for your paper target).
If seasoning is older than few minutes,
then you may use few shots until the barrel
can be considered "seasoned" again.
Sometimes, warm-up shots are not worth it,
and cleaning and starting from beginning is a better option.

This is a very interesting post. I've never heard this before but it does make sense. I'll have to remember this the next time I get out.

In my youth, when I shot prone small bore, those poor Anschutz rifles we had NEVER got cleaned. I was too young and dumb and listened to our coaches, who claimed they could go several thousand rounds before cleaning. I don't recall them ever being cleaned or oiled. That being said, we did always fire a few "sighting" shots through them before commencing our string.


We use Front Rests (Sand bags) only Sir. We are not allowed to use rear rests. The Butt of the rifle should not touch the table.

Nico, sorry I didn't read your first post closely enough and notice you mentioned you started a "BR50" match. I'm not familiar with the rules of BR50 but I guess one of them stipulated no support for the butt.
 
Nico I have a JW25a scoped, and I have tried virtually every type of ammo I could get my hands on. I found that American Eagle 40g standard, CCI Blazer, and Federal Champion to be the best.

One time my buddy Joerg shot a 5 shot touching group at 50yards with irons. I told him to do it again, and he presented me with a half inch 5 shot group. This was with American Eagle standard.

I have stopped trying to make the JW-25a into my target rifle, and switched to a Savage MkIIf. I took the scope off and use it now for blasting soda cans or squirrels. I find the smooth cycling bolt and quick target acquisition of the rifle to be its best features, and I dominate with it when I'm trying to send a tin can up a sandy hill from 25 yards away.

For some reason I haven't tried standard velocity CCI's, so I'll probably put the scope back on and see what I can do.
 
Nico, sorry I didn't read your first post closely enough and notice you mentioned you started a "BR50" match. I'm not familiar with the rules of BR50 but I guess one of them stipulated no support for the butt.

- It's very new here Sir the first ever was held on 1 May 20011. The club organizers tried to follow the rules they colud find and they are still adjusting them. They want to get International BR50 accreditation and will be following those rules.
 
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