Hunting rifle advice?

I just had a look at the box for this rifle scope. It is a Redfield Revolution 4-12x40, looked that up and it is a $375 dollar scope. The sticker on the box says $389. Obviously I don't remember well as to what I paid for this scope. I must have the eye relief mounted wrong on this scope. Going to have another look into this so called scope problem. I bought this gun and scope at a local dealer that was going out of business when two huge big box stores were coming to town.

Glad to have you guys for advice, I'm obviously an idiot!
 
My biggest regret looking back........ your dad was a smart man..... don't agree on the scope to rifle ratio........ but if both are good components you will certainly have a winning combo.....
Ya "Superbrad" basically back in the day when "I knew everything and Dad was dumb"what he Grilled into me is don't buy cheap scopes even if your mounting it on a used rifle you got a deal on.Nothing worst then getting to the cabin to hunt and finding the bargain scope won't hold zero or is so foggy it is useless.So I saved a few more well spent dollars and bought a Burris instead of that K-mart special.
 
I took another lookee at this scope. In low power I can get a clear sight picture pretty good but on high power it isn't even close to automatic. I tried adjusting the eye relief and that did nothing that I could observe. The scope is a Redfield Revolution Accu-range 4-12x40 (Leupold) for sure. All my other scopes are 3-9x40. I have been told, talking binoculars, that the higher powers are harder to get a quick sight picture. Could this be true of rifle scopes as well? I can't see adjusting the scope for better eye relief would do anything worthwhile. Bottom line I think I will order a wood stock for this gun, most likely swap over the scope for the Elite 3200 I have on a Norinco NS522 .22LR or I have new in box Nikon Coyote 3-9x40. This Redfield doesn't seem to have great low light ability which is important in a hunting scope.
 
Go to the gunshows and gunstores and pick up and handle ALL the rifles you are considering and others go for feel and fit. With a 30-06 calibre rifle,generally the HEAVIER the rifle often equates to less felt recoil. So added some additional weight with e.g a Burris scope ,added a little more weight with a thick padded sling and recoil pad . I have a Browning BAR Safari 11 with the Boss system and it is semiautomatic. It must weigh 12 pounds. Holds steady for sure and FELT RECOIL is about the same as a .243.
 
Well, as others have said, you've got a whole lot going on there... and without intending any disrespect, it seems like a lot of your troubles with both the Axis AND the 7600 could have been minimized by having an experienced mentor. Again, no disrespect, but it just seems like a lot of the little challenges you've dealt with are rather basic, and should have been addressed very early on in the trouble shooting process. So if I were to make just a single point of advice, it would be to find a mentor to shoot with, and hone your knowledge, skill, and durability for recoil.





Now... that said, this is CGN and we're not in the business of only providing a single price of advice. You get to hear ALL the drawn out blather lol. So a couple other things I'll mention: (or echo from other Nutterz)

1. Sighting in 4" high at 100 yards. What's with that? Assuming it's on purpose... Why? Assuming a scope height of 1.5 inches above bore, that means you're zeroed at just 20 yards. Or 300... that's a little wacky... You said you've got lots of deer with the 7600, what's the average distance you got them at? If it isn't 20 or 300 yards, I'd suggest a new zero.

2. Scope magnification... Assuming that your 125 yard deer is a typical distance, I'm not sure why you'd have the scope zoom dialed right up. I mean, to each their own of course, but common practice in the circles I run in dictates that you "hunt" with the minimum magnification your scope offers. This allows for the quickest target acquisition on a close in deer... as in, a deer that's so close you need to get the shot off asap. But if you spot a deer out at 250 yards, chances are, THAT'S when you'll have enough time to dial the scope up to max zoom, and can take your time getting that sight picture without rushing.

3. As for recoil, there's a dozen great options, but one thing I didn't see you mention is what size of bullets you're using. Going from 180gr. to 150gr. can make a noticeable difference in recoil. Or, you said you reload, so you could go even lighter than that if it's just for deer. My cousin had some 110gr. bullets he liked for deer. Just a thought.

4. Someone already mentioned doing the axis Trigger tweak. Do it. It's super easy and free. Just watch a few you tube videos explaning how. You can use a fish weigh scale to measure your starting trigger pull, then make sure you only clip a 1/4 clip at a time and reweigh so you don't overdo it. I picked up an axis last year, and out of the box it was about 11 pounds pull IIRC. A scale, screw driver, wire cutters, and 20 minutes later it's a nice 3.5 pounds. Easy peasy. For a person who's not keen on recoil, a trigger tweak is ESPECIALLY effective at improving accuracy, because it increases the chance that the gun will go BANG before the shooter goes FLINCH ;-)

5. Now, all that said, if I were in your position, I'd sell it. You already have the 30-06. The .308 won't do anything the 30-06 can't. I'd get something flatter shooting like a .243 that would offer a little more diversity in my safe. And then I'd sight them both in to 100 yards, lol. But that's just me.
 
Lots of points to answer:
The high zero was on the .308 not the .30-06, I missed the deer with the 308. I used to live in Alberta and hunted in the Peace Country area up there for years. I had the 30-06 at that time and got the .270 Weatherby for the longer shots that are common in farmers fields. Most years there would be a moose a white tail and a mule deer shot. Back east you could wait 35 years for a moose draw, if you are lucky you would get a draw in 35 years waiting I'm told. There is deer hunting but deer are scarce due to heavy snow loads in the area.
I have been using a 150 grain projectile in the 30-06 for years and have reloaded both the .308 and 30-06 with a 150 grain projectile. What I have used is Hornby #3075

Regards the .243 vs the .308 my understanding the .243 is a necked down .308. I have been using 150 grain projectiles in the .308, what would happen if I bought a lighter projectile for the .308? I'm thinking this would make the .308 lighter kicking, up the velocity. There is a 110 grain projectile listed some suppliers but it doesn't look streamlined like a hunting round would. I was told this gun may be a little tight, the tooling may have been worn out to just near tolerances but passed QC. The story was Savage are known for this.

I leave the scope at the low setting. I have binoculars and use these, h3ll of a lot better than any scope. Just mad that I can't see when the scope is turned up. My other scopes are like this but not this bad IIRC.
 
You aimed high, shooting down hill and you have your rifle sighted in high? Doesn't sound like a rifle problem it sounds like an operator problem

Sorry, but I have to agree.

That certainly doesn't mean that the scope is not a POS, but forgetting to compensate for how you sighted it in while shooting downhill sounds like your problem, not the scope. You could drop $10K on a new custom rifle and top-end scope and still have a problem.

In any case, not sure why you would sight in 4" high. Rule of thumb for a .308 is 1" high at 100 will put you more-or-less spot-on at 200 and you started out by saying that you view the .308 as a 'short range' round, good out to 250.
 
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You aimed high, shooting down hill and you have your rifle sighted in high? Doesn't sound like a rifle problem it sounds like an operator problem
No ####! A new $1000 rifle would've made the same bad shot. That being said, A new rifle never hurt! But I have to I agree, this is a case of the Indian, not the aarow.Edit: I Should have scrolled to the bottom, yup^
 
Hey just a quick comment on that price of a Boyds stock. It may say $140 usd as the price on the website , but by the time its shipped out, its $287cdn.

I also have a savage axis 30-06 that i bought off the EE for $170 bucks(couldnt resist the price), but that stock is insanely light weight and i thought a nice Boyds stock would be helpful with recoil and lovely to look at. But with the way the dollar is i just cant bring myself to buy the stupid thing right now.
 
Well I just ordered the Boyds stock. It cost me $277 including shipping. Got it in Walnut $35 extra, basic is $144, $25 for high gloss, $12 for metal trigger guard and $51 shipping USPS. I looked and looked at different guns but this will make this gun into a decent gun after the stupid stock stock is shyte canned. It's only money EH!

Merry Christmas all.
 
Well, I'm a big fan of Boyd's... but...

You had narrowed the problem down to:

Bad zero
Tight chamber
Operator error
Bad scope
Bad butt pad
Heavy trigger
Or a combination of any of the above.

...so... how does a new stock remedy any of the problems? A tad more weight will help the recoil, but you're going to an even worse butt pad, so that's a net-zero gain.
 
OP - When you say you adjusted the eye relief of your Redfield scope, are you referring to the focus ring? Or are you talking about physically moving the scope forward or backward on the gun?
 
I turned the ring (glass) at the back of the scope, it didn't seem to make any difference. If I move my head back and forth it doesn't seem to make a difference, maybe a little. The scope is just slow to get a sight picture for me, really hard when turned up. Once I get the new Boyd stock I will remove this scope and put it on a Norinco NS522 I have and put that gun's 3200 Elite on this gun. I like that scope better. I'm going to look into mucking with the trigger later.

I think I will end up with a decent gun that shoots better than I can.
 
I turned the ring (glass) at the back of the scope, it didn't seem to make any difference. If I move my head back and forth it doesn't seem to make a difference, maybe a little. The scope is just slow to get a sight picture for me, really hard when turned up.

Turning the eyepiece will bring the reticle into focus. You should adjust it so the reticle is as sharp as possible when your eyes are focused on a distant object.

As for getting a sight picture, that's mostly adjusted by moving the scope forward and back in the mounts or up and down (via different mounts). Some scopes are more forgiving on eye position than others...for some you have to have your eye positioned exactly right. And you're correct that generally the range of acceptable eye positioning (the "eye box") is smaller at high magnification. This is largely due to the smaller exit pupil, but the eye relief can also become less forgiving at high magnification.
 
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