Husqvarna 1640 Commercial Mausers?

[Max-4]

Hello, I have just put in an order for a surplus Husqvarna 1640 in 30-06. I am a lover of traditional blued/steel firearms and quality made items. I would much rather hunt with one of these rifles than the newer Ruger American or Savage Axis type rifles.

However I am a stickler for condition, I like my firearms to be in high condition, excellent or better. I don't mind scratches, dents dings in my rifles if I put them there but I can't stand it if they come beat up.

I love everything about the Husky 1640 from it's 24" barrel, drop floor plate magazine, controlled round feed Mauser action and so on.

My question is has anybody ever taken their 1640 apart and sanded down the stock and re-oiled it? Or even washed and re-blued the steel? I don't really want to pay a gunsmith to do these things but if there is an easy tutorial to improve the rifles condition I can do at home I'm all ears. This YouTube video is kinda what I was thinking I just can't understand a damn thing he's saying. LOL

 

[Tomd150]

Check out mark novak on YouTube. He does what he calls conservation on older firearms to use the original blueing and lots of work on touching up stocks and such.

 

[obsessed1b]

Of course, I have done this multiple times, not only with huskys but mausers, 1903s, enfields, PHs, BSAs, winchesters etc. My son just did a full restore job on a 1640 for himself. I love the process of restoring/repairing rifles. Every thing from straight cleanups to barrel chops/ sight mounting to hand making parts to re-cutting checkering etc. Its a hobby

 

[DGY]

One thing for sure is you will need some sort of dye to make the wood look like factory, after you send it the wood will be a lot lighter in colour than what you want unless you want something light in colour. Most dents and some scratches can be steamed out. Cracks can be epoxied, and while you are at it doing a bending job make sense!

 

[woodlotowner]

Just did my recent Intersurplus 1640 arrival. Very easy. Strip the current finish and, after very very minimal sanding with 200 grit to remove any remnants of the old finish, apply a few coats of tung oil to suit. If the stock has already been refinished at some point in its life, make sure the new finish is compatible with what is on the stock at this time.

 

[Max-4]

What did you strip the factory finish off your rifle stocks with? Do you just hand rub it on with a cloth and let it sit? Get into the checkering and grooves with a toothbrush?

 

[Max-4]

You guys have any pics of your refinished rifles?

 

[DGY]

Paint stripper works well for the initial finish removing. Then sand paper. If you apply only oil the wood will be of a light colour.

 

[DGY]

Before, during and after…

 

[AB3006]

What do you strip the current finish with?

I refreshed my 1640 with an oiled stock. As I wanted to clean and refresh it and not strip it right down, I used Dunlop fretboard cleaner conditioner. The nice lemony fresh scent is a bonus.

EDIT: I used Tung oil to preserve the wood afterwards.

 

[rombat]

I use Circa 1850 to remove the old finish. Use a stiff tooth brush to work the stripper into the finish and a wooden toothpick to clean out the checkering. Wipe with paper towel, no neutralizer required. Once down to the bare wood use steam to raise any dents, gouges will not raise. Soak the dent with some water, soak a rag and then use a heated bolt to press against the rag placed on the dent. I then lightly sand smooth with 220 sandpaper. Avoid the checkering!
My favorite finish on a walnut rifle stock is black walnut danish oil. I also like a hint of red. First coat of black walnut oil, then 1 coat of cherry danish oil followed by 2 or 3 more black walnut. Apply oil and keep all areas wet for 10 to 15 minutes and then rub off with a cloth and let dry 24 hours between coats. I have a stock of Behr's 600 Scandinavian tung oil finish, unfortunately it's not available any more. 4 coats of that on top, or some thing similar, wet sanded with 0000 steel wool and you are good to go.

This is a factory Husqvarna finished in that style.

 

[Canuck65]

Hello, I have just put in an order for a surplus Husqvarna 1640 in 30-06. I am a lover of traditional blued/steel firearms and quality made items. I would much rather hunt with one of these rifles than the newer Ruger American or Savage Axis type rifles.

However I am a stickler for condition, I like my firearms to be in high condition, excellent or better. I don't mind scratches, dents dings in my rifles if I put them there but I can't stand it if they come beat up.

I love everything about the Husky 1640 from it's 24" barrel, drop floor plate magazine, controlled round feed Mauser action and so on.

My question is has anybody ever taken their 1640 apart and sanded down the stock and re-oiled it? Or even washed and re-blued the steel? I don't really want to pay a gunsmith to do these things but if there is an easy tutorial to improve the rifles condition I can do at home I'm all ears. This YouTube video is kinda what I was thinking I just can't understand a damn thing he's saying. LOL

I’ve done a couple. First and foremost I’d say leave the blueing alone. Nothing you can do at home will be better than what’s on it already. There’s nothing like stinky cold blueing to destroy a perfectly good rifle.

As for the stock, some of them are birch, so watch out for that. You might want to use a water based stain and/or a good pre-conditioner. You’ll end up with blotchy colouring otherwise.

I did one once that was really beat up. Stripped, sanded, steamed out the dents, put it in the dishwasher to try and get some of the oil out of the tang area (this is why they crack there). Ended up soaking it in TSP and cooking it with a heat gun over and over and over until most of the oil was out. After that it was another light sanding, some water based stain and a nice satin hand-rubbed tung oil finish. I regret selling that gun after all the work I put in. Turned out really nice.

Have fun and take your time. It’s a rewarding project.

Cheers

 

[freddyfour]

Before, during and after…

That is a fine job sir

 

[BigUglyMan]

My Husky isn't a 1640, but I did install a walnut stock from Brownell's that required finish fitting and finishing. Refinishing the original stock. I also took the rifle down to the bare metal an reblued it with cold blue. It turned out surprisingly well.

 

[DGY]

Cold blue ain’t as bad as some say… I should say some cold blue are not as bad as some say! If you do a great job at cleaning/degreasing the metal, have a chance to warm up the metal it is usually not bad and can even look good especially if you do the entire rifle, touch up are usually the cause of ugliness, hard to match the original blueing job!

 

[AB3006]

If you do a great job at cleaning/degreasing the metal

This^^^^, a thousand times this^^^^.

Nothing you ever do with metal involving joining surfaces or coating should be done without degreasing. If it's really gunky and oily, wipe it off with brake-kleen first, and then with acetone a couple of times with a soft, clean rag or towel each time. If it's not too bad, just the acetone will do. If acetone is unavailable ( after all, it's known in the state of cancer to cause California) use methanol (methyl hydrate or mineral spirits).

 

[bearhunter]

What do you strip the current finish with?

Max4, before you start on this project, what are your capabilities???? Do you have the proper tools??? Are you one of those who finishes a project??

I have seen so many "half finished" project rifles over the past 6 decades, it's almost the norm.

There are all sorts of good paint and other furniture finish strippers available at most big box stores. One of the better ones was mentioned here.

Stripping the stock finish is almost the easiest part of the project, if you have the right knowledge, tools, and stripper/cleaners/stains/oils/compounds.

There are all sorts of online videos on YouTube.

As for blueing. Most of the 1640s I've seen have malleable iron triggerguards/magazine plates. That means you can "cold blue" them yourself.

I did run across one that had some sort of sintered metal on the bottom, and it had to be painted, powder coated, or anodized.

I've refinished a couple of them, without hiccups. Just take your time and don't try pushing drying times between coats.

I use leather dye to add to the finishing compound I'm going to use, to get the color I want. Black and Dark Brown are best for most woods. Or if you prefer Blonde, the original finishing compound is usually good enough, unless you prefer a "bleached" effect, then some acid is needed.

When I apply cold blue, I make sure the surface of the object is meticulously clean by boiling it in hot water. This will remove all oil/dirt and other residues.

If there is rust you want to get rid of, Wipe Out bore cleaner, soaked in fine steel wool from the Dollar Store, will soften the rust and clean it out right to the shiny metal underneath. When you boil the part, the Wipe Out is removed.

The parts need to be soaked in boiling water to get rid of residues, then, the water must be drained off carefully so the surface water drains off first, or any floaties will get back onto the parts, which includes the barreled receiver and bolt.

Even if you think you've got it all, repeat the boiling water bath/drain.

While the metal is almost too hot to touch, and using cheap, clean cotton gloves, apply a coat of cold blue, and allow to cool.

Repeat this step until you have the desired "blue" you want, in daylight, preferably sunlight.

Between coats, wipe the metal down with paper towels which are just abrasive enough to take off most of the oxide residues.

Be sure to heat up the metal before applying cold blue every time, or you will get a "blotchy" finish.

When you've confirmed you have the desired hue, apply some light oil, and then wipe most of it off.

There are all sorts of good cold blues out there. Black Magic, Outers, Birchwood Casey, and Oxpho Blue.

I like Black Magic and Oxpho Blue.

Most blues are available from big box stores, local gun shops, Amazon, and Brownelle's.

Now, after you've done all of this, it's time to glass bed the receiver, because those old stocks have cured nicely and are stable, but they are not as tight as they were when new. They may be tighter or loose, it depends on the storage and use.

 

[BassAckwards]

Now there is some pearls of wisdom if ever I saw any! Good write up BearHunter.

 

[Max-4]

Thank you very much for the post, I don't have any experience with refinishing wood or re-blueing metal. I am hopefully receiving the rifle today and I will give it a good look over and post some pics.

Edit: So I received the rifle this morning and had a good look at it. To be honest I am not very happy with the condition of the rifle. I would say the wood furniture is about a 6/10 and maybe the steel blueing is a 7/10. I'm going to say that the trigger guard and floor plate are a different material separate to the receiver and barrel but I'd give that 4/10.

Sucks, cause I really like the way the rifle comes up for me to the shoulder and if this rifle looked brand new I would be in love!

I know that this seems to be par for the course with these surplus mausers. What do you guys think, is there hope for this rifle? Can the stock be cleaned up and refinished? What about the bottom metal? I think maybe I could live with the receiver and barrel blueing, there is only a few scratches here and there. Here's some pics.

 

[bearhunter]

Max4, you likely paid less for the rifle than the receiver/bolt are worth.

You got a safe to fire, and properly functioning firearm of good quality for a good price.

It isn't missing parts, nothing is broken, and the bore is likely very good or better. Win

Sell the rifle if it isn't what you want.

You knew you were getting a "used fixer upper" when you purchased it.

So many people are used to Big Box stores, where they purchase something, get buyer's regret, and take the item back, no questions asked.

IMHO, it's time for you to scratch and itch and jump on the learning curve.

Spend a few more dollars and bring that excellent rifle back to its full glory.

I just finished one last week. It's in a beautiful AAA Walnut stock, carved and finished in the fashion of the era the rifle was built. Back then, it would be classified as a high end rifle. I installed an aftermarket trigger, because the excellent adjustable trigger it came with was too bulky for the stock.

I'm looking forward to shooting it. It's going to be a gift for my stepson. Whether he appreciates what it really is??????