Husqvarna 6.5 x 55 Sporterized; What's it Worth?

Cheeky Munkey

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Any info appreciated.

Timney trigger.
3x - 9x scope of unknown origin.
Leyman folding sights.

What would you all consider fair market value for this rifle? Apparently it shoots very well. What else is the guy going to say? :rolleyes:

tia,
CM

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I'll bet if you breathe too long, they'll both be gone

So very not true.

It would maybe sell for 250. maybe (big maybe). There are alot of swede sporters out there and they do not comand much of a price.

in the past on the EE I have bought a 98 mauser in 6.5 with steel base,rings, beauty stock, low saftey etc etc. It was for sale for 6 BTTs. payed 300 shipped.

Got a mint bored 96 full military for 150

bought a 96 with nice welded bolt, bases and synthetic stock and timmney trigger for 250 shipped.

Look at the tradex site they form the bench mark for small ring sporters

There have been alot of nice sporters in 6.5, 7x57 and 9.3 on the market. Shop smart and you'll get a much better rifle then that one.
You want to make darn sure those bases are true. Half the ones I see are not.
 
Aftermarket sporter stock, military barrel, original military safety and trigger, bolt not replaced or forged down.
Basically someone dressed up a pig, although it's a very good quality pig.
If you can get it for around $250-$300, you would still have to put some money into it to complete the transmogrification into a true sporter.
 
If that was my rifle I would remove the bases (which look to be ill fitted weavers) the rings and the scope and enjoy a nice handy iron sighted sporter in a fantastic cartridge.

And in said configuration I would not pay more then $200.
 
If that was my rifle I would remove the bases (which look to be ill fitted weavers) the rings and the scope and enjoy a nice handy iron sighted sporter in a fantastic cartridge.

And in said configuration I would not pay more then $200.

I agree with the first part, I like everything about that rifle but is chambering, that barrel step and that set of fugly rings. But that all said I think someone did a really nice job on it, I would say close to 300 for it, which is a shame really, not worth the effort put into it.
 
If that was my rifle I would remove the bases (which look to be ill fitted weavers) the rings and the scope and enjoy a nice handy iron sighted sporter in a fantastic cartridge.

And in said configuration I would not pay more then $200.

Shooting with the factory irons is the best option if you want to use the rifle without investing any additional money into it. If it was me, I would loose the cheap mounts and scope and find a way to mount a good scope so the bell was forward of the bolt handle in the style of the 8X Unertl when mounted on the 1903 Springfield, or get a custom bolt handle that was compatible with a conventionally mounted scope. If I chose to shoot the rifle with irons I would find a good quality receiver sight, but this would result in needing to replace the front sight with a higher one.
 
just looked at the pics again, there is alot of air showing between that front base and reciever ring.

Thanks David,

I'm a bit of a noob at this sort of thing: What exactly do you mean by that?

Is the "reciever ring" the bit that holds the scope or the part of the reciever where the base is attached?

:confused:

tia,
CM
 
Aftermarket sporter stock, military barrel, original military safety and trigger, bolt not replaced or forged down.
Basically someone dressed up a pig, although it's a very good quality pig.
If you can get it for around $250-$300, you would still have to put some money into it to complete the transmogrification into a true sporter.

Thanks gunrunner100,

What else do you think would be required to complete it?

:confused:

tia,
CM
 
I agree with the first part, I like everything about that rifle but is chambering, that barrel step and that set of fugly rings. But that all said I think someone did a really nice job on it, I would say close to 300 for it, which is a shame really, not worth the effort put into it.

Thanks Dosing,

"Barrel step"?

What does that mean?

Do I need to worry about it?

:confused:

tia,
CM
 
Shooting with the factory irons is the best option if you want to use the rifle without investing any additional money into it. If it was me, I would loose the cheap mounts and scope and find a way to mount a good scope so the bell was forward of the bolt handle in the style of the 8X Unertl when mounted on the 1903 Springfield, or get a custom bolt handle that was compatible with a conventionally mounted scope. If I chose to shoot the rifle with irons I would find a good quality receiver sight, but this would result in needing to replace the front sight with a higher one.

Thanks Boomer,

So, the sights on the rifle aren't particularly high quality?

The seller suggested they were very high quality "Leyman sights".

:confused:

tia,
CM
 
Thanks Dosing,

"Barrel step"?

What does that mean?

Do I need to worry about it?

:confused:

tia,
CM

No, it means the way the barrel abruptly changes diameter near the tip of the forestock. Nothing to worry about, that's the way these rifles were made. If that gun shoots anything like the Carl Gustov M96's, it could be an excellent rifle. I can't stand the look of the see through scope rings, but aside from that, it looks good to me for what it is. Might outshoot most new rifles. You'd have to try it.
 
Thanks Boomer,

So, the sights on the rifle aren't particularly high quality?

The seller suggested they were very high quality "Leyman sights".

:confused:

tia,
CM

The issue is not one of quality, rather it is one of practicality. I'm not suggesting that the iron sights on your rifle lack quality, rather they are not the style of sight I prefer. An open sight requires you to attempt to manage 3 points of focus, the front sight must line up with the rear sight and the sights together must then be put on the target. This is difficult and time consuming because the human eye can only focus on an object at a single focal distance at one time. The temptation is to continually shift your focus from one point to another; rear sight, front sight, target, thus the open sight is neither fast or precise.

This focus problem can be visualized as follows: Hold the forefinger of your right hand say 8"-10" from your dominant eye and concentrate on it until you can see the fingerprint on that finger. That finger is now in sharp focus. Now hold up the forefinger of your other hand at full arms length so that both fingers are within the field of view of your eye. You will see that the farther finger is somewhat out of focus unless you adjust your focus to the forward finger at which time the close finger looses focus. Now hold up both fingers against an object on the wall across the room and you will see that the object across the room can only be in focus when both fingers are out of focus, the object across the room is out of focus and the rear finger is out of focus if the front finger is in focus, and the object across the room and the front finger are out of focus if the rear finger is in focus.

A peep sight or ghost ring rear sight allows the shooter to ignore the rear sight provided the front sight is somewhere inside the aperture. Our shooter then places the front sight on the target, then pulls his focus back to the front sight and concentrates on the front sight until the shot breaks. Very good shooting can be done with an aperture rear sight, almost as good as with a scope provided the target is large enough at the range that it is engaged.

The primary advantage of the scope sight is not magnification. If it were, then a 20X scope would always be superior to a 2X scope, and clearly this is not the case. The advantage of the scope is that the aiming point, the reticle, and the target appear on the same focal plane and are both in sharp focus when the scope is properly adjusted.
 
What else do you think would be required to complete it?
One of the easiest things to do is put a quality aftermarket trigger with side safety on it (Bold OP-96). This allows you to drop the scope height, if the bolt handle is forged down. One of the tricks to these rifles is the wing safety on the bolt shroud, a necessary evil, but when using battle sights it's a moot point. If you put in a Bold, a little of the right side of the stock will have to be inletted for the safety lever. Another option is to put a Dayton Traister style of swing safety on it if you are OK with the military trigger. One of the biggest hurdles is the bolt handle, they just don't clear the ocular lenses of most scopes so they need to be reshaped.
*Didn't read the opening too close, just noticed it has the Timney. An aftermarket safety will help along with the bolt handle done.
 
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