Husqvarna rifles

mosinmaster said:
Will the FN 98 actions be safe to fire European loadings of 8mm Mauser by Prvi and S&B?
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yes ....... they have been chambered in almost every magnum / modern high pressure round without a hiccup .

even the 96 mausers are sfe to fire the various european loadings they are chambered for by the factory .


btw i don'r know if this has been mentioned yet , but your into handloading , you should take a look at the 9.3x62 that tradex has in a husky 1600 .

as i build mine , i am fast falling in love with the cailber ,like i fell in love with the 6.5x55 .
 
Even what you guys are calling "hot European loads" are quite low when considered against "modern" loading pressures, especially when compared to the SAAMI levels, wich are so low (35 000 PSI for the 8X57), it makes the calibers look ridiculous. The 9.3X62 and the 8X57 share the same CIP MAP pressure (3900 bar), wich is slightly under the 30-06 Sprgd level (4050 bar).
There are no problems if you use CIP approved loaded ammunitions. When reloading, keep on following the published datas and everything will stay safe.
 
Win/64 said:
Are you trying to be funny or are you just uninformed?
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Power saws, yes, I've had a couple. In addition I ground up a lot of Moose trim to burger with a Husqvarna manual grinder as a youth when I lived in the B.C. interior. Still have the old hand crank. Just finished mowing the lawn with our Husqvarna mower. Icing on the cake though are my three Husqvarna rifles:).
 
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Well - The FN based actions may not be drilled and tapped, and may have a fixed floorplate. If the drilling and tapping was done on the aftermarket in Sweden, be prepared for a poor job. The 1600's were factory D+T'd and came with a hinged floorplate.
 
My plain 1600 6.5 X 55 from Trade Ex is one of my better buys. If you could call guns "###y", this one would qualify. Slim and very delicate.
 
Mosinmaster;
yes, they are, but be aware that M/640 series was also made on M/38 "commercial" receivers. There were also models 1000/1100/2104, also know here as Hi-Power and 1951, plus the M/146 M/246 (would be very surprised you could find this one here).

As for the other divisions of Husqvarna, FFV bought the firearms division (HVA) off the group in 1971. They also made Motorcycles (Cagiva bought them in 1987 and BMW in 2007), bicycles, sewing machines and vacuum cleaners and many other products, the home appliances / lawn - garden division was bought by Electrolux and is now by it's own as lawn / garden macinery / equipment manufacturer since 2006. The Husqvarna division also own the Weedeater / Poulan, Partner (wich bought and closed the former Canadian chainsaw manufacturing co. Pioneer), Jonsered and many others.
 
I'm curious as to why a lot of the rifles have cracks at the tang. Is this something that can be prevented? Bedding? Aftermarket stocks?
 
There are a lots of theories about that, but from my observations, most Mauser type rifles (and any with Mauser's staggered column magazines) are subject to crack at the tang.
It's also common on muilitary rifle wich were extensively shot with loose action screws and some wood types / grain patterns are more prone to cracks too. Wood dryness / condition can also make the difference.
A good bedding job can help, but usually just keeping the screws tight will do the trick (if bedding is correct, of course). I don't bed my collector's rifles but I shoot them within hurting.
The first thinhg I check when I buy a rifle (especially with thin stocks ad wide magazines) is to check the small web between the magazine and trigger well for cracks. That's the common starting place for cracked stocks. It's really not a hard to fix problem.

See below for involved process of stock bowing when firing.
lott06picture.jpg
 
mosinmaster said:
I'm curious as to why a lot of the rifles have cracks at the tang. Is this something that can be prevented? Bedding? Aftermarket stocks?
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The ones I have seen with a crack in the wood at the tang, the fitting between metal & wood has been very tight or you could see that it had been.

The ones I have seen where there was no tang crack, usually the wood has been slightly relieved in the area where the metal tang is.

2007-10-27_091302_1aCoffee.gif

NAA.
 
You are correct, mostly true with the various M/94/38 variants M/146 and early M/640 on both M/38 and M/98, often with beechwood stocks and to a much lesser scale to the 1640.
There is also the theory of the rear steel pillow being too tight, but from all those Mausers having a cracked stock I've been able to see / handle / work on, you could see the front lug hammered, permitting the rear action screw (and to a lesser extent the tang) to hit the pillow tube, acting like a wedge to crack the tang. To me, still the real culprit is loose action (screws) whatever from not tighting the screws back and / or wood dryness.
 
mosinmaster said:
Is there anything wrong with using 8 mm mauser?
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Nothing at all, except that it's a reloading proposition unless you get shops to order you in Prvi or S&B ammo which are loaded to respectable levels. I handload either Nosler 200gr partitions or Woodleigh 250gr and my 8x57 is my go to hunting caliber every year.
 
mmaster for about 500$ get a 1640 30.06 from tradex. you cant go wrong, bought many from them, all great quality and shooters, savage steel. be careful--ones not enough--
make sure screws are tight and oil that wood and enjoy dont worry. good luck B2
 
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