Husqvarna Sporting Rifles #### - ALL MODELS!!!
- Thread starter Baribal
- Start date
Great ! Another Portsider
Hi Northern Skies. Just when I figured that the thread had run it's course, another southpaw surfaces. Real nice. I purchased mine, new in Dryden Ontario at the former Les Barret Sports in 1975. I had the choice of either a .270 win. or the 30-06 and went for the '06. Should have grabbed both. What locale did you acquire this gem ?
Okay, here is mine! I think Jackpine's is slightly darker coloured.
It's exciting to find out that left-hand versions are so rare. I found mine at a gun show. I was just browsing around, broke as could be, and stumbled across it. The price tag was $750, so I just had a quiet sad moment of knowing that I couldn't afford it and I wouldn't be seeing one of these again for a long time. I had been looking out for something like a left-hand tikka 695 for a while, and this fit the bill.
I thought that an offer was worth a try, so I went to the bank and got all the money I could possibly spare. I went back to the gun show while it was closing, and pulled $400 out of my pocket. Being a lefty, the seller wasn't planning to hang onto it, and he knew that he was going to either sell it to me, or not sell it that day. After trying to bargain with me, he understood that it was all I had and reluctantly agreed to the deal.
The next day, I called him to follow up about the transfer. He was full of regret, as he looked back in his books and realized how much he lost on the deal. I got really lucky on that one. I went on to take my first big-game animal with that rifle.
Being such a light .300 win mag, it feels like a cannon!
The serial is 623###. It is a "HVA - Carl Gustaf, forenade fabriksverken" Can anyone tell me anything about my rifle?
Hi Northern Skies. Just when I figured that the thread had run it's course, another southpaw surfaces. Real nice. I purchased mine, new in Dryden Ontario at the former Les Barret Sports in 1975. I had the choice of either a .270 win. or the 30-06 and went for the '06. Should have grabbed both. What locale did you acquire this gem ?
I've read & re-read the 300+ posts in this sticky & can't see any info, so I thought I would ask the experts on here.
I know some of the 46's, 46A, the early FN 146 were walnut, but what other woods were used in stocking the various Husqvarnas, up to the 1900 models. I've heard Artic Birch, Arctic Beech, but this was only hearsay. Is there a definitive list with wood types?
Another question, this one concerning cocking pieces:
One of my 46's has a knurled military-style cocking piece, another has the same length cocking piece, but with the upper knurled section missing, like the early medium length commercial Mauser 98 actioned rifles, yet another has a shorter length cocking piece, the rear of which lies flush with the rear of the bolt shroud when in the fired position, another has the side safety with a screw-type trigger stop on the sear safety block mounted with a small screw to the bottom of the action tang, my 46B has a Mauser 98 style cocking piece sear butt (?) & triangular nose, with a stronger spring & shorter firing pin fall.
I presume these were just running improvements along the production life, as I can find no information delineating these points?
Sorry about the long-winded post, but I'm just fondling my rifles, cause it's too darned cold to be heading out to the range when it's -36 (with the wind-chill; it was -46 at the cottage on the weekend when I was going to go try out my newly loaded 9.3x57 rounds. (Nah, maybe I'm just gettin' old & wuzzy!)
I know some of the 46's, 46A, the early FN 146 were walnut, but what other woods were used in stocking the various Husqvarnas, up to the 1900 models. I've heard Artic Birch, Arctic Beech, but this was only hearsay. Is there a definitive list with wood types?
Another question, this one concerning cocking pieces:
One of my 46's has a knurled military-style cocking piece, another has the same length cocking piece, but with the upper knurled section missing, like the early medium length commercial Mauser 98 actioned rifles, yet another has a shorter length cocking piece, the rear of which lies flush with the rear of the bolt shroud when in the fired position, another has the side safety with a screw-type trigger stop on the sear safety block mounted with a small screw to the bottom of the action tang, my 46B has a Mauser 98 style cocking piece sear butt (?) & triangular nose, with a stronger spring & shorter firing pin fall.
I presume these were just running improvements along the production life, as I can find no information delineating these points?
Sorry about the long-winded post, but I'm just fondling my rifles, cause it's too darned cold to be heading out to the range when it's -36 (with the wind-chill; it was -46 at the cottage on the weekend when I was going to go try out my newly loaded 9.3x57 rounds. (Nah, maybe I'm just gettin' old & wuzzy!)
Hi buddy,
Actually, if you only consider the centerfire repeater rifles, HVA only used the walnut and beech for their sporting arms. Walnut from the 46 to the 246 and then, for the 640 after WWII, they used the beech wood. Later production of the 640 will be found mostly sporting beech stocks, but there are also quite a few fitted with walnut stocks.
All the 1640 and 1900 were walnut stocked. Some custom rifles may be found with maple (Ellwood Epps did quite a few of them) and other type of wood.
As for the M/94/38 variants, the early ones have the standard military cocking piecewhile the latest have no finger catch projection (like the CG63). They all had the three position flag (swing) type safety.
As for your other personal question, regarding the double rifles, there are some, very few, floating around but the swedes seems to hang on those remaining there. When they are on the market, they are so expensive that it's almost crazy to buy them. What I can say is "keep both eyes wide open"....
Actually, if you only consider the centerfire repeater rifles, HVA only used the walnut and beech for their sporting arms. Walnut from the 46 to the 246 and then, for the 640 after WWII, they used the beech wood. Later production of the 640 will be found mostly sporting beech stocks, but there are also quite a few fitted with walnut stocks.
All the 1640 and 1900 were walnut stocked. Some custom rifles may be found with maple (Ellwood Epps did quite a few of them) and other type of wood.
As for the M/94/38 variants, the early ones have the standard military cocking piecewhile the latest have no finger catch projection (like the CG63). They all had the three position flag (swing) type safety.
As for your other personal question, regarding the double rifles, there are some, very few, floating around but the swedes seems to hang on those remaining there. When they are on the market, they are so expensive that it's almost crazy to buy them. What I can say is "keep both eyes wide open"....
Jim,
We're stuck in the same balmy weather here and wouldn't you know it I got to play with my 146 tonight too. Just back from getting the stock restored and you'd think it was 1939 again, just off the assembly line. Will post pics of the job, she is an absolute beaut.
Loaded up some 285gr Prvi tonight too for the first test firing. Can't wait.
We're stuck in the same balmy weather here and wouldn't you know it I got to play with my 146 tonight too. Just back from getting the stock restored and you'd think it was 1939 again, just off the assembly line. Will post pics of the job, she is an absolute beaut.
Loaded up some 285gr Prvi tonight too for the first test firing. Can't wait.
Noel:
What have you used for powder?
Thus far, using the PRVI 285 grainers, I've only tried RL-15, which is one of my favourite powders (1st load I decided on, using LFAD, was 50.0 grains, which resulted in 3 shot open-sight groups at 50 yds. producing 0.750" groups out of 2 Model 46's & 1 Model 146, with no pressure signs) & SMP735, because I've got lots & it's inexpensive. (1 1/4" groups as above, but I think that was me & it was late in the day & I had already shot ~200 rounds of various & sundry cartridges, so will try again come spring). In any event, I've now mounted scopes in the EAW-type side mounts so I'll be able to see the target a lot better!
I wasn't able to detect much, if any difference between the expensive Norma brass & the re-formed 8x57 PRVI brass, although I did find (much to my chagrin) that you MUST full-length size the 8x57 brass after expanding the case necks as I couldn't get the unsized brass to chamber.
I've ordered QuickLoad so we'll see if it suggests anything more than what LFAD has to say.
Baribal:
Re: safeties. All of my 46's have the standard 3 position Mauser flag-type safety, but one of them, which is also chequered on the forend, also has a side-safety, with the block mounted underneath the top receiver tang. Do you think this was a later add-on? The underside of the bolt has a small notch so the safety arm also locks the bolt. I'm in the process of stripping the finish on that one & the stain (?) is something I've never seen before. NOTHING will cut it, other than sanding it off & it's blacker than a dog's insides, although the top finish was a nice shade of English red.
What have you used for powder?
Thus far, using the PRVI 285 grainers, I've only tried RL-15, which is one of my favourite powders (1st load I decided on, using LFAD, was 50.0 grains, which resulted in 3 shot open-sight groups at 50 yds. producing 0.750" groups out of 2 Model 46's & 1 Model 146, with no pressure signs) & SMP735, because I've got lots & it's inexpensive. (1 1/4" groups as above, but I think that was me & it was late in the day & I had already shot ~200 rounds of various & sundry cartridges, so will try again come spring). In any event, I've now mounted scopes in the EAW-type side mounts so I'll be able to see the target a lot better!
I wasn't able to detect much, if any difference between the expensive Norma brass & the re-formed 8x57 PRVI brass, although I did find (much to my chagrin) that you MUST full-length size the 8x57 brass after expanding the case necks as I couldn't get the unsized brass to chamber.
I've ordered QuickLoad so we'll see if it suggests anything more than what LFAD has to say.
Baribal:
Re: safeties. All of my 46's have the standard 3 position Mauser flag-type safety, but one of them, which is also chequered on the forend, also has a side-safety, with the block mounted underneath the top receiver tang. Do you think this was a later add-on? The underside of the bolt has a small notch so the safety arm also locks the bolt. I'm in the process of stripping the finish on that one & the stain (?) is something I've never seen before. NOTHING will cut it, other than sanding it off & it's blacker than a dog's insides, although the top finish was a nice shade of English red.
H-380 works great for the 9.3X57, so does many others, including IMR 3031, H-335, Bl C2, RL15, H-IMR 4895.... and more. H-380 gave me the most consistant results in many rifles.
Now, regarding the safeties, in Sweden they had a big industry of aftermarket gadgets for the CG63 and M/94/96/38... but the original cocking pieces are as mentioned above. When it's well done, it does not remove any value on the rifle, there are even people collecting these aftermarket stuff.
Now, regarding the safeties, in Sweden they had a big industry of aftermarket gadgets for the CG63 and M/94/96/38... but the original cocking pieces are as mentioned above. When it's well done, it does not remove any value on the rifle, there are even people collecting these aftermarket stuff.
Jim,
I loaded up some H335 which proved the best in this gun last time I owned it. Having said that I have a large supply of H380 I might try as it was not in my stash for the last testing.
I've necked up some 8x57 brass and it is quite short but it might stretch on first firing. We'll see.
I loaded up some H335 which proved the best in this gun last time I owned it. Having said that I have a large supply of H380 I might try as it was not in my stash for the last testing.
I've necked up some 8x57 brass and it is quite short but it might stretch on first firing. We'll see.
Nothing really special a 1640 with a huge front sight hood. The rifle is in very good condition excepted the trigger guard is scratched but I will repaint it.
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Kandy
This rifle has been on somewhat of an adventure. Bought it from Anthony, took it hunting a month later and in a moment of weakness sold it.
Stock was then redone and it sat for four years and then I was very happy to get it back.
One of those regretted sales.
The stock was found to have issues still so it was all fixed up by a very skilled Gent who wishes to remain anonymous. He did a stellar job on both reinforcing and cleaning it up. The checkering was recut as well.
Thank you Stock fixing guru!
I 'd like to put in a small steel bolt with the typical two hole blind nuts on each side (exposed) in place of the wood plugs. Haven't decided, taking out the screws in there may take more effort than its worth.
Sorry for the shaky, blurry pics. Really need to take a class on using a camera.
And with my Great Uncle's knife, my favorite one, conveniently made in Sweden too. This one's for you Johnn Petersen.
Did I mention how happy I am to have this one back? I am VERY happy.
This rifle has been on somewhat of an adventure. Bought it from Anthony, took it hunting a month later and in a moment of weakness sold it.
Stock was then redone and it sat for four years and then I was very happy to get it back.
One of those regretted sales.The stock was found to have issues still so it was all fixed up by a very skilled Gent who wishes to remain anonymous. He did a stellar job on both reinforcing and cleaning it up. The checkering was recut as well.
Thank you Stock fixing guru!
I 'd like to put in a small steel bolt with the typical two hole blind nuts on each side (exposed) in place of the wood plugs. Haven't decided, taking out the screws in there may take more effort than its worth.
Sorry for the shaky, blurry pics. Really need to take a class on using a camera.
And with my Great Uncle's knife, my favorite one, conveniently made in Sweden too.
This one's for you Johnn Petersen.
Did I mention how happy I am to have this one back?
I am VERY happy.
Nice stuff, Noel, glad you ended up getting it back.
I personally prefer the steel headed cross bolts when installed behind the receiver's recoil lug, in the traditional Mauser stylish. That's just my own personal taste, though, nothing formal here..
In this same way, a repair capped with a wood plug is a correct fit for a "Belgian" or "German" style, while the "Swedish" style would be a visible brass (or, sometimes, stainless) thereaded rod (no head) - and sometimes even a ugly visible screw head (Bubba have a Swedish bro, y'know...)... Anyhow, was it with a cross bolt, a visible rod, a capped crossbolt or rod or screws, when the repair is well done, it does not really matter wich school the repair is from, as long as it looks nice and put the horse back to work.
Buster,
I personally use industrial enamel paints, so unless you buy a pail of it, I doubt you'll get any. I sometimes use industrial epoxy coatings too.
Any good quality paint should do the trick, it can be anything baked (with the proper finish) such as motor paint, exhaust, barbecue / stove... You also can find specialized baked enamel paint for aluminium too.
Epoxy spay paint should work too. Companies such Krylon comes to mind, but many others do too.
And if you know someone with a body repair shop, they can paint it with very good quality acrylic paint too.
I personally prefer the steel headed cross bolts when installed behind the receiver's recoil lug, in the traditional Mauser stylish. That's just my own personal taste, though, nothing formal here..
In this same way, a repair capped with a wood plug is a correct fit for a "Belgian" or "German" style, while the "Swedish" style would be a visible brass (or, sometimes, stainless) thereaded rod (no head) - and sometimes even a ugly visible screw head (Bubba have a Swedish bro, y'know...)... Anyhow, was it with a cross bolt, a visible rod, a capped crossbolt or rod or screws, when the repair is well done, it does not really matter wich school the repair is from, as long as it looks nice and put the horse back to work.
Buster,
I personally use industrial enamel paints, so unless you buy a pail of it, I doubt you'll get any. I sometimes use industrial epoxy coatings too.
Any good quality paint should do the trick, it can be anything baked (with the proper finish) such as motor paint, exhaust, barbecue / stove... You also can find specialized baked enamel paint for aluminium too.
Epoxy spay paint should work too. Companies such Krylon comes to mind, but many others do too.
And if you know someone with a body repair shop, they can paint it with very good quality acrylic paint too.
I was tempted to use German silver for the exposed caps, but brass or steel would be fine. Wanted to use them on the lug as well but it was deemed overkill since a hidden bolt is in there already. A co-workers daughter is a silver smith so maybe I can source something.
For now, I will just shoot it.
