Husqvarna Sporting Rifles #### - ALL MODELS!!!

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a tradex mauser i bought, sporterized by husqvarna, someone then redid the stock to have a nicer pistol grip, a schnabel forend and replaced the stock disc with more wood :)

6.5x55 swedish

im trying to get the origional bolt modified to clear the low pro scope mounts
 
Hi Simko,
Unfortunately, and I don't mean to disapoint you, Husqvarna did not sporterized military rifles. They built new sporting rifles on unissued actions, but no ex-military. And all HVA sporting M/94/938 have a blued bolt.
The military rifles they built were a small run of M/96, they remodeld earlier M/96 (Carl Gustav) into M/38 and brand new M/38.
Your rifle was likely pretty well remodeled by a gunsmith in Sweden, or by some companies such as Vapen Depoten, though.
The common way of reshaping the bolt handle is the grind a the "hump" to shape it in a "u" shape, so it clears the bell of the optic.
 
the origional bolt on this rifle is blued, the barrel is marked with "Husqvarna vapenfabriks A.B. Kal6.5mm

the crest also has "husqbarna vapenfabriks", i dont know what else, as i havent taken the scope base off in a long time.

The magazine floorplate does look to be military style, but the triggerguard has ben modified.
 
I hope this isn't regarded as cross-posting, but I'm having a bit of an issue. Please see my post in the Gunsmithing section: http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=712878

My question is regarding the relationship between the rear of the of the receiver and the tang. Has anyone had an experience where the tang slot and rear of the receiver are not perfectly perpendicular? Machining error? Twist? Bend? The 2 latter seem unlikely as the tang material is substantial and the distance is short - it would seem it should be obvious to the naked eye.
 
Simko,
If so, you likely have a barreled action in a replacement stock, which is not uncommon, the Swedes peferred thin, uncheckered fore ends, which is better suited for fast shots at running deer / moose.

The serial will tell what you excatly have, but from the look of the barreled action I would say you have a model 646 barreled action.
 
Looch,
On the other thread, you metioned that the original bolt shroud / cocking piece works ok, I'm right? If so, I suspect there's something wrong with the replacement part(s).
The shroud you pictured diefinitely looks crooked, but you did not post pics of the whole thing, including the lever and all, I can't really say wihout seeing.
PM me if you want to discuss / compare, BTW, i'm in Mtl area.
 
Baribal - I can take more pics this evening - thanks for offering to help. Just to be clear, the shroud in the picture is the original and yes, it works smoothly. The replacement shroud is a Gentry and looks much more uniform. This is why I suspect something with the actual receiver/tang.

I'm off island, working on the south shore and living near the NY border.
 
Simko,
You can check skydevaaben.com. But the 640 series serial sequence is a bit funny, to say the least. I use the HVA book. While I've seen early ones with a thumb cut-out, the 640's usually have the "solid left side wall" receiver (a.k.a. "commercial").

Looch,
the shroud you pictured sure looks funny to me because it seems there is a rubbing (friction wear) spot and a deformation on one side. Do you use the original trigger or did you change it for an after market one?
The sear channel is cut straight and should align with the barrel axis.
What i would first do myself to check it up is to use prussian blue (tracing blue, machinist blue) on the moving parts to see if it robs somewhere.
It is also normal that the bolt blocks somewhat if the trigger is fully depressed when pushing the bolt in. Slowly relax the tension on the trigger and it will go. Look under the bolt while in open position, there is a flat cut in front of the cocking piece; under the rear bridge, in the bolt channel, you will see a "pin" coming out when the bolt is fully depressed; this is what cause the bolt to block, or "interfere" and it is normal.
 
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Looch,
Is your rifle on a M/98? - well, I didn"t notice the bolt shroud was a M/98 one... I should have thought, since you even told me it's a Gentry... well.
If so, forget what is written above... this only applies to the M/94/38 variants.

I was giving the wrong infos. If the safety is hard to release it's because the cocking piece is too far from the sear. So, to fix this, the usual way of doing it is by filing the engaging parts.
If the cocking piece is hard to move in the slot, then measure it; it's supposed to measure more or less 0.232" in thickness to fit the slot. Measure the slot, too; it should show about 0.240" in width. It need quite a bit of force to bent the tang. You can use a a small steel rule to check if it's crooked, but it shouldn't unless it was hit / dropped or something.
 
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One of the rifles I got from TradeEx has a chip at the toe. It has a straight comb, the slimmer shorter barrel, and has checkering only on the pistol grip, not the fore-end. It has the steel bottom metal. This makes it a model 4100 I think? The chip is in the wood as well as the plastic butt plate. If I were to put on an aftermarket recoil pad, like a limbsaver or something, is there a particular make & model of pad that will work, or am I forced to use the grind-to-fit type?
 
When they installed butt pad at the factory, they used Pachmayr. As far as I know, there is no "direct fit" for the HVA stocks, as they were hand made and there's quite a bit of variation between one and the other.

For model of the 1600 variants; checkering on fore end = 4000 / 4100 (referred as Export models in Sweden)
1600 Std = no checkering on fore end. There are also other luxury models in the 1600 series not only the Std, but it's the most common "shorty" here now.
 
I think I know what my first Husqvarna is, just hoping for a few details. I do know it is an an 8x57 that was advertised on Trade-Ex as a commercial m96. I just put the Redfield on, just have to bed the old girl now. The stock is quite sloppy to the action. So if anyone wants to help a guy out in the Calgary area ...

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What do you want to know about it? It's a model 648 on a "commercial" M/38 action. Originally, it was not d&t for scope mount. The bolt handle looks like it was ground to clear the scope and the safety lever was replaced. Other than that, we can give you the year of manufacture..
 
Thank ya. The serial is 806XX, which I believe is 1944. So as the war was raging in Europe, a Swedish craftsman was busy at work on my rifle. Once I get it ready, it's going to be my moose/elk rifle. Now I just need more.
 
Sweden did not really get involved in the fights of WW2 (except to help for resistance in Finland and Norway), so, HVA decided to continue as much as they could, the supply of civilian firearms so the population can feed on natural ressources when availlable. The production was limitated to what was availlable, though. The 8X57 was made because the ammo was widely availlable, the 6.5X55 was saved for militia / military use.
It won't let you down at the task (hunting) that's what they do best.
 
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