Husqvarna Sporting Rifles #### - ALL MODELS!!!

It seems this rifle had it's stock sanded. The model 4100 have a checkered pistol grip and fore end + 1" sling swivel loops + cheek piece. THe model 1600 Std have a checkered pistol grip and 3/4" sling swivel loops.
None of the "lightweight" / carbine stock was delivered plain.
I suspect your rifle is a 4100, but it was modified over time.
As for the Warne, I do not use them on classic rifles, I prefer the more period time lines of the Buehler or Leupold.
The Warne bases for the 1640/1600 rifles are the # 898 front and # 828 rear.

Thanks for the reply. This stock has not been sanded. Were there any other models that had a plain stock that would fit this barreled action? Fit and finish on this rifle is like factory...
 
No, they all have checkering, at least to the pistol grip, for European models but the stocks were usually made with less figured walnut. The only model which have no checkering at all have a different (heavier) barrel profile and the stocks were beech.
All the nice walnut stocks have checkering.
 
Speaking of stocks, I have picked up a 1640 in 9.3x62. The rifle is in very good condition with a walnut stock that has no tang crack. I want this to be a shooter, but am torn between keeping it original or relieving the tang area a bit, and perhaps attempting to reinforce the lug area. Any thoughts?
 
Personally, unless it's already cracked, I don't touch the 1640 / 1600 stocks. If there is a brass or SS pin through it, then, it should not need more reinforcement.
And I shoot lots of my rifles, including the 9.3X62 and the .358 NM...
 
Speaking of stocks, I have picked up a 1640 in 9.3x62. The rifle is in very good condition with a walnut stock that has no tang crack. I want this to be a shooter, but am torn between keeping it original or relieving the tang area a bit, and perhaps attempting to reinforce the lug area. Any thoughts?

Sort of "in between" - you can reinforce the recoil area with epoxy bedding - will be completely hidden when rifle assembled, and will not allow that action to move rearward under recoil - which creates that "tang split". I have done several mausers that way - put two or three layers of masking tape on the very rear end of the tang when doing that glass bedding - ensures that you end up with a smidgeon of clearance at that very rear end - nothing can be seen when rifle re-assembled, no wood removed at the rear end. For rifles that have had the wood at the recoil lug start to go punky from being oil soaked, I just chiseled it all out and replaced with epoxy - totally hidden - a good idea to try to get a bit of opening into the side walls on each side of the recoil lug for that epoxy to get into - again, all hidden. Some people have embedded metal rod cross ways inside that recoil lug - gives a hidden internal cross bolt - not certain that is actually any stronger than 1/4" thickness of good epoxy that is bonded to good dry stock wood. Either solution is only as good as the parent material, around the bedded area.
 
Are you sure it was a 1600 ? The 1640K (only in 6.5X55 and 30-06) and the 2100 (only in .270 and 30-06) have no checkering, but the stock is beech, sometimes low grade walnut for the 2100 and the actions were sandblasted (often showing a purpleish blueing). They were a low budget version of the 1640.
The 1600 are the short version of the 1640, with a slim barrel of 520mm VS 600mm for the 1640 and all it's derivatives.

The only other version without checkering was the 1640 Laponia and only exported to Germany and was stamped "Laponia"

There was a target version of the 1900 without checkering, too.
 
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Are you sure it was a 1600 ? The 1640K (only in 6.5X55 and 30-06) and the 2100 (only in .270 and 30-06) have no checkering, but the stock is beech, sometimes low grade walnut for the 2100 and the actions were sandblasted (often showing a purpleish blueing). They were a low budget version of the 1640.
The 1600 are the short version of the 1640, with a slim barrel of 520mm VS 600mm for the 1640 and all it's derivatives.

The only other version without checkering was the 1640 Laponia and only exported to Germany and was stamped "Laponia"

There was a target version of the 1900 without checkering, too.

Mine is definitely walnut- mabey low end walnut, and has not been altered. Mabey it is a one off. The fit and feel of this stock is amazing. Could have been replaced? I dont know. Should be able to figure the exact model of barreled action regardless of stock?
 
Quite hard to say only with the barreled action, and especially without the rear sight. If it have a cheekpiece, it's most likely a model 4100. The 7X57 chambering was only made with the short barrel (520mm) and exists as 4000/4100/456/458. Saw / handled / owned hundreds of those and I never saw one without checkering, not even in catalogs.
You can remove the stock and check for internal stampings. If there are none, the stock was likely duplicated.
 
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The finish you are describing is pointing to either a 1640K or a 2100 and there are only three models without checkering and it's likely not stamped "Laponia"...
What caliber is your rifle ? What SN range ?
As for being d&t'd I did douzens of receiver and no one could say if it was factory or not... Is it d&t'd for a receiver sight ?
In Sweden, there was a lot of "factory" options available, though....
 
What a fantastic thread. I've recently picked up a Husky (1640, I think) in .308, and this has been invaluable in teaching me more about it. I've been looking for a lightweight setup for woodland use on reds, and this will fit the bill just perfectly. Husqvarna rifles aren't that common over here, and Stutzens even less so they tend to sit on dealers shelves for a while. Great news for guys like me as it tends to keep the price way down! I've fitted a steel tubed S&B 6*42 of the period for the time being, but have a Williams FP on its way from a friend in Canada. Hardly anyone uses irons for hunting here the UK, but I like the thought of stripping things back to minimum. It's such a light and pointable rifle it's a shame to unbalance it with a heavy scope. The front sight hood has been lost over the years, so there's a quest on to find an original to suit. I was curious as to why the stock had those lines scribed on the fore-end, and it turns out Husqvarna made their full stocks in two parts, before dowelling and gluing them together. Apparently this was to reduce the chances of the stock twisting. Interesting bit of thinking, I thought. The rifle has a 300*** serial number which I think dates it to the mid-60's. Happy to be corrected though.

Anyhoo, here are a couple of pics . . .


**Image and video linking functions will be enabled after you have contributed more to the forum**

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(Edit: Am I making a mistake in uploading the pictures? Or is there a pre-set number of posts I need to make? Newbie question, apologies)
 
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What a fantastic thread. I've recently picked up a Husky (1640, I think) in .308, and this has been invaluable in teaching me more about it. I've been looking for a lightweight setup for woodland use on reds, and this will fit the bill just perfectly. Husqvarna rifles aren't that common over here, and Stutzens even less so they tend to sit on dealers shelves for a while. Great news for guys like me as it tends to keep the price way down! I've fitted a steel tubed S&B 6*42 of the period for the time being, but have a Williams FP on its way from a friend in Canada. Hardly anyone uses irons for hunting here the UK, but I like the thought of stripping things back to minimum. It's such a light and pointable rifle it's a shame to unbalance it with a heavy scope. The front sight hood has been lost over the years, so there's a quest on to find an an original to suit. I was curious as to why the stock had those lines scribed on the fore-end, and it turns out Husqvarna made their full stocks in two parts, before dowelling and gluing them together. Apparently this was to reduce the chances of the stock twisting. Interesting bit of thinking, I though. The rifle has a 300*** serial number which I think dates it to the mid-60's. Happy to be corrected though.

Anyhoo, here are a couple of pics . . .


**Image and video linking functions will be enabled after you have contributed more to the forum**

**Image and video linking functions will be enabled after you have contributed more to the forum**

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(Edit: Am I making a mistake in uploading the pictures? Or is there a pre-set number of posts I need to make? Newbie question, apologies)

Preset # of posts, your pictures come through on the notification email.

For those wanting to see here is Woodsmoke's rifle.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/j315/Quixote_01/Husky2.jpg?width=120&height=74&crop=fill

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/j315/Quixote_01/Husky1.jpg?width=120&height=74&crop=fill

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/j315/Quixote_01/husky3.jpg

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/j315/Quixote_01/Husky4.jpg

Lovely looking rifle by the way.
 
Preset # of posts, your pictures come through on the notification email.

For those wanting to see here is Woodsmoke's rifle

Lovely looking rifle by the way.

Thank you kindly sir. Both for the compliment and for sharing my photos.

As I say, these rifles are pretty scarce here, and nobody seems to favour stutzen stocks. That's probably due to the widespread use of moderators which of course you can't fit. They seem to have completely gone out of fashion, which is good news for those of us who love them!
 
Very nice rifle Woodsmoke,
Thx for sharing.
After a few more posts, we'll see em.
Wife and I had a quick history lesson after reading your post and seeing you're from Angus, admitting I had to look it up.
Forgot all about Northern Ireland being part of the UK. (we'll leave that alone)

Interesting to see the different wood grain from the factory.

9XXLiGq.jpg


Also didn't know they were dowelled and glued.
I recently purchased a m458, should be here later this week.
Will share when it happens.
 
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Yes, the 458/456/1600H have the forend extension glued with a dowel (like most . The supposed reason if stability under harsh weather conditions (well, they do not hunt in bad weather much like we do in Sweden, though).


Woodsmoke
SN 300*** would be 1965 but I can't make out the letters for the date of proofing at Birmingham proofhouse. If you can tell me what are the letters each side of the "X" I can tell you when it was proofed.
1965 would be "Q-B", '66 "R-B", '67 "S-B" and on.
 
Woodsmoke
SN 300*** would be 1965 but I can't make out the letters for the date of proofing at Birmingham proofhouse. If you can tell me what are the letters each side of the "X" I can tell you when it was proofed.
1965 would be "Q-B", '66 "R-B", '67 "S-B" and on.

Thank you very much. It's great to have that confirmed, and it's really appreciated. Nice to have a definitive date for it. Took a bit of doing (and my eyes aren't the best these days) but I finally managed to zoom in enough to read the proof marks. It appears to be 'T-B', so that would see it going through proof in Birmingham some 3 years after it was made, I guess? Wonder who brought it into the UK? I'd love to hear that story. Not sure if I have enough privileges to post phots yet, but here's the link to a better picture of the proof mark anyway . . .

https://hosting.photobucket.com/ima...jpg?width=450&height=278&fit=bounds&crop=fill

I've only had the rifle a couple of weeks, so I had the stock off today to have a look, and my gosh it's been cared for! The barrel and action lower has been treated with what looks like a silicon-based grease, and everything is in really good order. I took the opportunity to bump a coil off the trigger spring and reground it flat, so that's brought the trigger pull to around a safe 4lb. I'm more than happy with that, so I'm not going to bother having the sears polished for now.
 
Yes, that would be '68... not very surprising, though. in those days, things sometimes took years before hitting shelves... There are not too many in the UK, guess BSA and Parker were at war with them...
Post-war England was pretty conservative / protective for local industries.

4lbs is about right for a Mauser trigger...
 
What a fantastic thread. I've recently picked up a Husky (1640, I think) in .308, and this has been invaluable in teaching me more about it. I've been looking for a lightweight setup for woodland use on reds, and this will fit the bill just perfectly. Husqvarna rifles aren't that common over here, and Stutzens even less so they tend to sit on dealers shelves for a while. Great news for guys like me as it tends to keep the price way down! I've fitted a steel tubed S&B 6*42 of the period for the time being, but have a Williams FP on its way from a friend in Canada. Hardly anyone uses irons for hunting here the UK, but I like the thought of stripping things back to minimum. It's such a light and pointable rifle it's a shame to unbalance it with a heavy scope. The front sight hood has been lost over the years, so there's a quest on to find an original to suit. I was curious as to why the stock had those lines scribed on the fore-end, and it turns out Husqvarna made their full stocks in two parts, before dowelling and gluing them together. Apparently this was to reduce the chances of the stock twisting. Interesting bit of thinking, I thought. The rifle has a 300*** serial number which I think dates it to the mid-60's. Happy to be corrected though.

Anyhoo, here are a couple of pics . . .


**Image and video linking functions will be enabled after you have contributed more to the forum**

**Image and video linking functions will be enabled after you have contributed more to the forum**

**Image and video linking functions will be enabled after you have contributed more to the forum**

(Edit: Am I making a mistake in uploading the pictures? Or is there a pre-set number of posts I need to make? Newbie question, apologies)

Classic rifle ......... I'll buy it
 
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