Husqvarna Sporting Rifles #### - ALL MODELS!!!
- Thread starter Baribal
- Start date
inawoods90
New member
- Location
- Richmond Hill, ON
I checked under the bolt lever and there’s an “L” but do you know what it means?
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If you look carefully, you will see that from 1937, the serial numbers are not following a numerical order. That year, they introduced the FN actionned 146 and 246, which were made from serial 20001 to 31440 and N501 to N727. This means a production of around 2300 rilfes from 1937 to 1941.
They then used serial ranges by caliber for a while, between 1942 and 1945 for the 46A (SN 40 000 to 47 813) , 46B (SN 70 001 to 73 947) and 46AN N1001 to N1228).
So, to answer your question, no, they did not increase their civilian arms production during these years, they only introduced a different action made by FN, which was a departure form their early production based on the shelved M94 military actions made by Carl Gustav, which they were using for their M46 rifles. When tey got the tooling to make the M96/38 actions in 1940-41, they restarted using their own actions for the civilian market for some time and went back to FN after the war.
They then used serial ranges by caliber for a while, between 1942 and 1945 for the 46A (SN 40 000 to 47 813) , 46B (SN 70 001 to 73 947) and 46AN N1001 to N1228).
So, to answer your question, no, they did not increase their civilian arms production during these years, they only introduced a different action made by FN, which was a departure form their early production based on the shelved M94 military actions made by Carl Gustav, which they were using for their M46 rifles. When tey got the tooling to make the M96/38 actions in 1940-41, they restarted using their own actions for the civilian market for some time and went back to FN after the war.
The Flint&Fly Guy
Member
- Location
- Northern Alberta
30-06 gets er done, got this beauty of a rifle from my grandpa
At one point I looked up the serial and found it to be a 1952.
On one of those picker shows on TV (American Picker, Salvage Hunter, Salvage Kings, etc.), they mentioned that if an object has three things wrong with it, then you should walk away. I have been saved from many a Husqvarna purchase by remembering their godawful triggers, the poorly soldered front sights (that will fall off sooner or later), the ubiquitous tang cracks and the likelihood of more hidden internal stock cracks, the lack of recoil pads, the way the checkering runs off the bottom of the grip. That said, I have still purchased way more than my fair share of Husqvarna rifles and shotguns in the last 4 decades or more.
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One needs to keep in mind that most of these 60 and way over 80 years old used guns were sold for a reason and most of the time, it's because of a lack of care, use under harsh environment and bubba's "improvement" work...
I do have a lot of HVA rifles and others, mostly Mauser rifles and what people are calling faults on the HVA rifles - only "common" because they are way more present than others on the market nowadays - like the cracks, are common on most thin stocks combined with Mauser's double stack magazines. If you see enough of the, say, Brno M98 rilfes, you will see that many of these also commonly have the cracks... At the end, rifles in top shape, like new or "collector grade" condition, like any others, will rarely be laying in the bargain bin...
I forgot to mention the poorly anodized(?) aluminum alloy bottom metal. Easy to wear off and looks horrible when it does. So...the godawful triggers, the poorly soldered front sights, lack of recoil pads, the way that the checkering runs off the bottom of the grip...forgetting the tang cracks...that's still more than three things wrong. LOL
Argument?...I was just stating the (3+ things wrong) reasons that have saved me from buying more Husqvarnas than I should have...and I have bought plenty. I really didn't realize the bottom metal coating was just paint. Anyone have ideas about what type of paint?
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All of the things you don't like are easily fixed by you.
Take the bottom metal and powder coat it yourself, or get it done, problem solved. Rattle can automotive paint is about as close as you're going to get to the lead based paints of the era the rifle was made. Clean it up and spray paint it on. Most of the new spray on paints don't need to have a base primer applied first. Just a couple of coats and it's as new.
Horrible triggers???? You must be used to triggers set under a couple of pounds???
All sorts of videos online describe how to smooth out the pull and reduce pull weight, and ensure a crisp let off.
Timney makes a great drop in trigger for all models.
The base model Husqvarna rifles were about as basic as it gets, but they were always reliable and accurate when fed ammo they liked.
Back in those days, they were one of the standards other manufacturers tried to outdo or match.
Take the bottom metal and powder coat it yourself, or get it done, problem solved. Rattle can automotive paint is about as close as you're going to get to the lead based paints of the era the rifle was made. Clean it up and spray paint it on. Most of the new spray on paints don't need to have a base primer applied first. Just a couple of coats and it's as new.
Horrible triggers???? You must be used to triggers set under a couple of pounds???
All sorts of videos online describe how to smooth out the pull and reduce pull weight, and ensure a crisp let off.
Timney makes a great drop in trigger for all models.
The base model Husqvarna rifles were about as basic as it gets, but they were always reliable and accurate when fed ammo they liked.
Back in those days, they were one of the standards other manufacturers tried to outdo or match.
Quote: "Well, it's your call. I'm not gonna argue further than that, I leave internet debates to those who have more free time than I have.
And BTW, the bottom metal was not anodized, it was painted."
I currently have an older feather/light weight model (20 inch barrel) in 7x57 that has blued bottom metal on it. This thread had me curious so I just attached a magnet to it. there must be changes during their run (?)
And BTW, the bottom metal was not anodized, it was painted."
I currently have an older feather/light weight model (20 inch barrel) in 7x57 that has blued bottom metal on it. This thread had me curious so I just attached a magnet to it. there must be changes during their run (?)
