I’m all set up and ready to load for the 1st time. want to confirm the data

zee123

zee123

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I’m all set up and ready to load for the 1st time. want to confirm the data

im hoping to start loading this weekend, im loading 30-06 for my sako A7. Im going to be using Remington brass and federal primers.
Is the data below correct?
Is it ok to work up the loads in 0.5gr increments?
Any suggestions? The powder I have on hand is IMR 4350, IMR 4831, and H 4831

#1
Bullet: .308" 165 GR Hornady Interlock SP
Powder: IMR 4350 Starting Load: 52.0gr, 2546ft/s, 46,700PSI - Max: 56.5gr, 2770ft/s, 58,200PSI

#2
Bullet: .308" 180 GR Hornady Interlock SP
Powder: IMR 4831 Starting Load: 53.0gr, 2563ft/s, 47,300PSI - Max: 56.5gr, 2749ft/s, 57,100PSI

Let me know what you think, thanks
 
Where'd you get your load data from? I don't have my Lyman or Hornady manuals handy but if you got them from there, then you're good to go. If you build close to max recommended loads, start keeping an eye out for any signs of overpressure. Doesn't hurt to have a chrony out too, not that it would tell you pressure levels. For rifle loads I usually go up 0.5grains. 0.1-0.2grains I'm told doesn't make a huge difference in larger calibers.
 
Trinimon said:
Where'd you get your load data from? I don't have my Lyman or Hornady manuals handy but if you got them from there, then you're good to go. If you build close to max recommended loads, start keeping an eye out for any signs of overpressure. Doesn't hurt to have a chrony out too, not that it would tell you pressure levels. For rifle loads I usually go up 0.5grains. 0.1-0.2grains I'm told doesn't make a huge difference in larger calibers.
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thanks, this data is from the powder manufactures website http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp im going with this data because Hornady 8th Edition says 54.5 grains of IMR 4350 is maximum and most of the people ive asked say they are 55to56gr of IMR4350. so im planning on starting at 52gr and working up in .5gr increments while checking for pressure signs
 
Toss a couple sized brass into your action to see if the bolt closes nicely on them.
Makes for easier adjustments now rather than later.
 
kamlooky said:
Toss a couple sized brass into your action to see if the bolt closes nicely on them.
Makes for easier adjustments now rather than later.
Click to expand...

That is great advice! If i would have done that the first time i reloaded i would have realized i had head space issues right of the bat and not after i loaded 40 rounds. I now keep my Hornady head space gauge close....
 
kamlooky said:
Toss a couple sized brass into your action to see if the bolt closes nicely on them.
Makes for easier adjustments now rather than later.
Click to expand...

Alleycat said:
That is great advice! If i would have done that the first time i reloaded i would have realized i had head space issues right of the bat and not after i loaded 40 rounds. I now keep my Hornady head space gauge close....
Click to expand...


thank you for that great info
 
Yes, try a sized case and make sure the bolt will close on it. A little compression resistance is ok. Just make sure you put a dab of grease on your bolt locking lugs to prevent galling. I do this on a rifle each time I clean it.

You have to seat your bullets to some kind of OAL that will fit the rifle. Measure the length of your magazine and note that in your loading log book. You don't want to load ammo longer than that. I make a point of noting a "MAG MAX OAL" in the log book. This is 25 thou shorter than the magazine length.

Set your die seating depth long and then make a dummy round, shorter and shorter until you get it down to mag length less 25 thou, and chamber it. Pull it out and see if there are rifling marks on the bullet. If there are, seat the bullet deeper and deeper until you don't get marks. Note that length for that bullet. This Bullet Max OAL will vary by bullet, since the ogive shoulder is at different places on different bullets.

The range of powder charges you have in mind looks reasonable. I suggest you load 3 of each, in 0.5 gr increments, but go up an extra 2 grains from your current max. Use a felt marker to mark the powder charge on each case.

Let your barrel cool a bit between 3 shot groups. Given the huge difference between rifles, one cannot predict where you will get pressure signs, or if you will get pressure signs. Put your fired cases in the box, primer up. Watch for stiff bolt lift. This is at least a full grain over max. Watch for a change in the primer edge. At some point it will change from round to flowing to fill the little gap. This means you should be paying close attention. Watch for a little shiny mark on the case head where the name and caliber is marked. This means the brass is flowing into the ejector hole and you are north of 65,000 psi. back off 2 grains.

When you go to the range for this first test, be prepared to stop before shooting all the ammo. If you reach a point where there is any sign of pressure, STOP. Mission accomplished.

Your choice of bullets and powders are good. You should get good results.
 
"...data is from the powder manufactures website..." You think they made it up? Just curious. Manuals reflect the data found on the day of the tests using the components and the specific firearm(usually what's known as a Universal Receiver. Isn't a real rifle.) only.
Going up by half grain increments is normal.
I'd use different powder though. IMR4895 or IMR4064 with the latter being preferred. The powders you have will do nicely though.
 
To the OP, congratulations on getting into reloading. You have a great rifle and have chosen an excellent cartridge for reloading. I have often said there is no better cartridge for reloading than a 30-06.
I recommend you follow your loading books.
The rest of what I am going to write here, just read it as entertainment and not as advice on reloading.
However, this is a discussion forum, so we can have a discussion. But I am just going to be the messenger, so please don't shoot me!
In the 1964/65 Ellood Epps catalogue is a Hodgdon reloading guide. I am enclosing a picture of the portion of the reloading chart that shows the 30-06 calibre.
Back in the day these were the type loading charts we went by.
You will note with H4831 powder and a 180 grain bullet, the charge shown is 62.5 grains, to reach a velocity of 2752 fps.
 
sunray said:
"...data is from the powder manufactures website..." You think they made it up? Just curious. Manuals reflect the data found on the day of the tests using the components and the specific firearm(usually what's known as a Universal Receiver. Isn't a real rifle.) only.
Going up by half grain increments is normal.
I'd use different powder though. IMR4895 or IMR4064 with the latter being preferred. The powders you have will do nicely though.
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Once again, Sunray, you are babbling on incoherently.
If you don't have something that is of value, just stay away.

To the OP. Your powderr choices are perfect for the 30-06.
EE
 
I agree with eagleye, I've burned much 4350 in my 30-06. One thing to watch for when reloading is making sure your resizing die stays screwed in tight. I resized 150 cases in one session and found out at the range that the die had backed out enough that the last 40 wouldn't chamber nicely and had to have the bullets pulled.
 
FWIW, I have the same rifle in the same calibre. SAAMI max cartridge length is 3.340". You'll find the magazine is also 3.340". I used a Stoney Point (now Hornady) OAL gauge and found that with Barnes 150gr TTSX the max OAL was 3.388" and for the 168gr TTSX was 3.403". 180gr Partitions measured 3.318". Your results will vary, but I found if interesting that for the 168gt TTSX, I'll be already at least 65 thou off the lands just because of magazine length. Thankfully, the TTSX's like a jump to the lands. Now, if I can just find some Varget...
 
Try going higher with the 4350. 56.5gr of 4350 is just where is gets good. Im running 57gr of h/imr 4350 and getting 2835 fps. I am also using hornady 165gr sst, interbond, and gmx all with this load.
 
HI I'm an Old Timer:
Been reloading since 1963.
Buy as many reloading books as you can afford.
Even the old ones are good.
Don't rely on somedy's internet advice.
Do not overload or start with the top load.
Check to make sure that you have the right kind of powder.
Just trying to help Old timer Lou
 
Good advice about the books. For now if you can't afford alot of books, the Lee book has by far the most comprehensive data, and it's not brand specific. It's also the cheapest. No fancy graphics or cute stories, just a pile of hard data.

And most of all have fun with it all man! It's like Legos... You'll always want another tool or powder or bullet now!
 
zee123 said:
thank you :)
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Your welcome. Not a problem.

CreamySmooth said:
Good advice about the books. For now if you can't afford alot of books, the Lee book has by far the most comprehensive data, and it's not brand specific. It's also the cheapest. No fancy graphics or cute stories, just a pile of hard data.

And most of all have fun with it all man! It's like Legos... You'll always want another tool or powder or bullet now!
Click to expand...


Lee uses the hodgdon data.
 
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